VinR1

iTrader: (17)

I have a 23mm solid 3rd gen rear swaybar. Would there be any negative or odd handling issues if I put it on with my stock '93 front one? If so, what?

JJsQwuik

iTrader: (17)

I've read that when turning it'll make the rear of the car feel like it wants to break loose

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

I was looking at some specs, and it looks like the LT1 cars had 30mm/19mm bars on V8 cars and LS1s had 28mm/15mm bars. WS6 cars had 32mm/19mm bars. This doesn't exactly match what I remember, but it could be right. I've had the base LS1 V8 bars on my car, upgraded to WS6 bars for most of its life, and just recently put 35mm/22mm hollow Strano bars on it.

At one point I was thinking of just going with the larger 22mm rear bar as I was already pretty happy with the front suspension setup. Several people on here warned me that I would lifting the inner rear wheel under hard cornering (basically the front would lean and the back wouldn't be able to). Because of this, I got the matched set. However, I did the rear springs/shocks/anti-roll bar first and drove around like that for several weeks. I thought the car was a real hoot to drive with the 32mm/22mm combo as the back felt planted and would rotate predictably with throttle. It probably has higher limits now, but I do miss that playful willingness to rotate at will. If you have a 30mm front bar and that a 23mm one, that's even more extreme of a gap than my experience, but you can always give it a try.

00transamws6

iTrader: (4)

Eb-going from what u had to the Strano bars, was it well worth the upgrade?

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

Yes. I like corner carving and I'd say that out of all the mods (springs, shocks, sway bars) that the rear bar made the most difference for me around corners. The change in front behavior is less drastic as it already stays pretty flat with the 32mm bar, but it helps and they are a matched set.

00transamws6

iTrader: (4)

Yea I figured it would be worth the upgrade. I have the Spohn solid front/rear bars but are in the process of possibly switching to the Stranos.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I originally ran a 32/25 Addco combo on my '95 TA only because it was recommended by Lingenfelter (this was 1996). When I traded her for the Z, I got into autocross and bumped it up to a solid 35 front and the rear has varied with my rear suspension changes.

The larger bars help prevent the rear from sliding to the side when spinning from a stop, say on wet pavement; but when actually driving around corners at speed or in competition they cause the rear to become loose. I like my car to be neutral with just a hint of throttle induced oversteer. When using the stock-type rear suspension with the front 35, I thought the 22mm bar gave the best balance. After lowering my panhard bar years ago, it feels better with the 24mm bar.

If I were to change it now the only thing I'd modify is to attempt to get the same bar rates in a hollow version to save weight. I think Sam's front hollow 35(36?) is the closest, not sure what's available similarly for the rear.

Based upon that, I can say that I wouldn't enjoy a 30mm front (assuming that is what you have) with a 23mm rear in competition. But if you can get it for cheap or free, they're easy to replace. Remember to not overtighten the endlinks, just barely enough to get them to bulge a bit. Just try it and see how it compares.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

With all else being equal, adding more rear bar will increase oversteer tendency.

00transamws6

iTrader: (4)

With the bars I have now while driving the rear comes around very easily and unpredictable too. I have poly bushings for LCAs so I'm sure that's contributing to it too. A buddy of mine has the Strano bars and springs with UMI poly/roto LCAs, this is one I'm thinking about upgrading too.

Ramey-what are the weight of your bars?

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

The front is 26.15 lbs and the rear is 9.30 lbs.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

You didn't ask, but I'm thinking it's coming so... My front bar is just under 20 pounds, rear bar is 5. Rear bar is all unsprung weight as well being bolted to the axle.

00transamws6

iTrader: (4)

Ramey and Sam thanks. Idk what the weight of my current bars are but being solid i'm sure they weigh considerable more. Since you both commented maybe I can get your opinion on what I should do. My car has an almost scary unpredictable oversteer feel. I want to correct this, so I was thinking switching to Strano springs (I currently have the SLP/Bilstein/Eibach shock and springs), Strano or UMI sway bars (currently have Spohn solid I believe 35/22) and UMI poly/roto on-car adjustable LCAs (currently have BMR poly non-adjustable). Would this correct or at least help with my problem? Car is mostly street driven, but I would love to autocross it but never wanted to take the chance of on the track with its current setup. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for any opinions.

OP sorry for the thread jack

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

If you have Spohn, you don't have a 35mm front bar, it's a 32. You could have a 22 rear, or a 25 rear.

I'm not tracking, or maybe you didn't say, what spring and shocks you have. But bars alone are not what I'd recommend (obviously since I don't sell a setup like what you have). A larger front vs. rear will help make the car more neutral. Even if you put a 35mm front on it, if you happen to have a 25mm rear *that* is still too much IMO.

I am the developer of the 35/22 bar setup, everything else is a copy of that. Prior to me doing my bars everyone else was doing 32/21 or 22's. SLP had a thin walled 35mm front, which they'd pair with a solid 21 rear. My front bar is still stiffer than that, and my rear bar about the same as that, but lighter. UMI and I work together, and when I quit making solid bars because I hate the weight, Ryan asked if I'd mind if he took that over. I don't, which is why I sell UMI.... because it's actually what I *used* to do myself, and I'm a UMI dealer, and I know it works. And unlike some others around here, Ryan did the right thing and checked with me instead of just stealing the idea. Anyway, I just don't see the point in dragging that weight around when you can do hollow bars for very little increase in cost. In fact you'll spend much more going to a CM option on say, SFC's... to save *less* weight.

00transamws6

iTrader: (4)

Sam I gotta tell you, I always appreciate your responses. The shocks and springs I am running are the SLP Bilsteins with their springs. It was a package they sold years ago, don't know if they still sell it. Instead of taking up forum space what is the best way to get in touch with you to continue this conversation?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Call me @ 814-849-3450, that's the best way.

00transamws6

iTrader: (4)

Called and left a message, first name is Zeno.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Ok, sorry I couldn't get to the phone (I'm still on it). I will call you as soon as I can. It might be tomorrow the way this conversation is going.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

haha nice muti tasking.
I bet he buys something cheaper

00transamws6

iTrader: (4)

Haha not a problem

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

Did you ever try this? I've been planning to throw a 23mm rear bar off an 89 Formula 350 (WS6) on my LT1 car for awhile now. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. LOL It seems to me like it should be a good alternative to the slightly larger aftermarket bars people are swapping on for street/strip use.