nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

I bought a donor door for my T/A after an accident. The numnut who did the body work on my car hooked the electronics up wrong and my window switches for that door wouldn't work.

So I took it apart today to swap lock cylinders and troubleshoot, I hooked the wiring up correctly and got the window to work.

Problem 1- When the window reaches the full range of motion up or down, the motor doesn't shut off. It'll keep going and want to bend the inner door panel which is flimsy fiberglass I have these 2 little plugs that I'm not sure where they go.



Problem 2- The glass in that door rattles and drives me crazy. I tightened up all the screws and got most of it but there is 1 thats left. Its for the window track and has no slot in the head on it, I can't grab it with anything so it wont spin. Suggestions?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Did they pull your original wiring back in to the dash and then thread it through the new door? Or did they splice the donor door's harness in?

Those plugs are definitely for something aftermarket, as are the wires attached to them. You will probably want to trace those back to their source.

I'm not sure what the issue is with #2. You should be able to put a 10mm socket on that nut and tighten it. The bolt is permanently attached to the track.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

I see no evidence of them splicing anything, but will know for sure when I take apart the area under the steering column to fix how the fog light switch mounts.

What is it thats supposed to stop the motor when it reaches it's full range of motion though? It'll keep going and want to bend the door frame.

The issue with #2 is that the head of that bolt has come apart from the window track and spins as the nut spins. I'll jbweld it and hope it holds enough for me to tighten it up.

Also last night the wires for the windows came apart and shorted (the shop broke the plastic retainer) as I was closing the door. The window switches on the D/S no longer work, I'm going to assume it popped a fuse?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There is a part in the window motor called a thermal resistor or a thermal cutoff switch that does it. As the motor encounters resistance, the device heats up and cuts the circuit. Usually, its common for that part to trigger early and cause the window "not to work." If its really broken, then its possible that a previous owner disabled the cutoff switch. There are posts on this site as to how to do that, although I certainly don't recommend it and I don't think its really all that common of a practice.

The bending of the door panel is normal. They all do it and the panel will bend before the thermal cutoff does its thing. Are you sure that the cutoff isn't working or are you just concerned with the bending? On the driver's side, the express down module will continue to provide power to the motor; (so you'll see power continuing at the connector) however the motor should be cutting off internally.

I'd suggest taking the door covering off on your passenger side and comparing the two. That should give you a good idea of what is normal and what isn't.


Yes, its probably a fuse. The plastic retainer that holds the wires with the pin-grip terminals on them doesn't lock tightly. Even from the factory, there was electrical tape installed around them to keep the connectors shut so the wires don't move around.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

In that case the circuit is not being cut, the motor will keep going regardless of resistance.

There is only 1 provision for the windows in the fuse box and that is a breaker. Its a Wagner 30A 12V. Doesn't look like local stores have it so I'll have to order it.

Hopefully its this and not the RAP module.

Thanks so much for taking the time to help!

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I don't think you read my last post correctly. I'm pretty sure your motor IS cutting off. What are you using to make your assessment that it is not cutting off? (If you are using the door bulge as the test - you can't do that. The bulge is normal.)

If your motor runs, your breaker and RAP module are perfectly fine.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

After the short on thursday night, the windows don't work on both sides with both switches.

The motor doesn't cut off because it will keep going and over extend. It goes out farther than it should and lower than it should way past the dew wipes. It goes up past the rubber triangle by the mirror and the glass doesn't seal against the door seal now, I'm not sure how to wind it back down manually so it seals properly until I can get the windows working again.

I took the breaker out and the metal cover off. Not exactly sure what its supposed to look like, but I see no evidence of it being fouled.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

That really sucks. I don't think you would have done anything to the BCM. It may be the driver's door switch. (The power for both windows goes through that switch.) If your switch housing came apart, you might double check the positioning of the terminals in the housing. If one is in the wrong place, it could keep both sets of windows from operating.


A fouled breaker will look like the one for the power seats and defroster. That one, in particular, takes a beating. But, I'll bet your breakers are fine. You can switch the two to confirm.


This sounds normal. Again, if you compare both doors to each other - you can confirm. The glass goes all they way down to the bottom of the door. The only thing that stops it is a small rubber bumper that slots in to the bottom of the door. (I'll bet that your donor car door may have lost this bumper. If so, that will let the glass go a little further and will cause some rattling when the glass is all they way down. If you can score a new bumper, then you'll probably be happier with the positioning of the glass and the sound inside the door. The glass going down further than you want it to is not a motor problem. The glass will go all the way to China in any well functioning car until some physical barrier or stop impedes its progress.


This is just a glass adjustment issue. I think you'll find this article useful in correcting those issues: http://shbox.com/1/adj_window.html


This can not be done easily. I'd suggest jumping 12V to the motor and manually move the glass up and down that way.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

I swapped breakers today and no change.

I can't find a pic or description anywhere of the orientation of the wires into the retainer/ window switch.

However it has to be something deeper in the system. Heres why:

When I initially picked the car up, I was told the D/S window wont work because the wiring is served somewhere. However the P/S was working fine with it's switch.

Fast forward to when I hooked up the D/S properly and it all shorted, now none of the switches work including the P/S. So something got fried and it wasn't the breaker because I swapped it with the one for the defrost/ seats 30A and still nothing.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You can't say this without getting an electrical tester and testing stuff. At this point, with potentially severed wires (if there was really a sever, I'm not sure how you could get it working before the short), a recent short circuit, and potentially misplaced switch wires, everything you do is just a wild *** guess - unless you have a tester and a schematic.