BlackNite383

I know that the wet kits are said to hit harder than dry. But other than that doesn't both kits turn the same ET and MPH if you're running the same RWHP shot? So if i ran a 150 dry which is rated at the flywheel or i ran a 125 wet shot that should almost equal the same RWHP or atleast come close. So with everything being equal both kits should run the same times, correct? Just trying to decide on which system to run. I like the fact that the dry is alittle safer, on the other hand with the wet hitting alittle harder sounds like you get more for your money.

Den

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

The WET kit is safer, than the dry..The wet kit, your spraying fuel and nitrous, therefore its easier on your motor...The dry kit is just nitrous, therefore its harder on it, and its not easily "blended" into your motor...ya see?

I'd say wet 150 shot, and in theory, they should "hit" the same amount of rwhp.

BlackNite383

I see what you mean...so the fuel gets better atomized with a wet kit? What about the fact we don't have a down draft intake manifold? Wouldn't there be fuel puddling at the bottom of our manifold that a fire could start if the motor backfires? With only N2O spraying the manifold never has fuel laying at the bottom. Just seems like the DRY kit would be safer, but I like what the WET does to give it try. Thanks for the info.

Den

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

first of all, intakes were not meant to flow anything heavier than air. both kits run a risk of some kind, but i think that wet definately gives you more kick.

JoSeY

Well I've run WET kit's my entire life from my very highly modded Eclipses, to both my FI Z28, and my MTI H/C 99' Formula....in my 99 I ran the TNT Dual Nozzle kit...HIT HARD AS HELL!! and I never had a problem with pooling or anything.

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

TNT is my weapon of choice..the F4 kit

BlackNite383

I really think i'll go with the TNT kit. I like what gains i've seen.

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

I dont know much about the juice, but the way I understand it a backfire with a wet kit will cause a lot more damage (ie intake trying to come out through your hood). This is what I was told by one of the guys from TSP.

JoSeY

and with the Dry kit u run a MUCHO greater risk of going Lean. Take ur pick of Poison....

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

haha,intake through the hood. i have had nitrous backfires before, the worst result was broken airlid/airbox. thats the most common path the backfire will travel, i think.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

So many different opinions.. I guess I will add mine.. The only difference I see between the wet kit and the dry kit is one adding fuel through the intake and the other adding fuel through the injectors. On the dry kit I can only see you going lean if you are REAL close to maxing out the injector or you have a bad tune. On a dry kit you spray b4 the MAF so the pcm reads the spray/temps/air speed/etc and adds fuel with the data it receives. On the wet kit you can still go lean if you do not have ENOUGH fuel pump. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, but in the case of which is harder on the motor I would have to say BOTH. When you add any power adder the motor is going to work harder than it was designed too. You have to understand when modding there are always going to be associated risks. You just have to understand what you are doing and come up with a plan to minimize those risks. So, do it right the first time and do not take shortcuts. Not everyone has a bloody rabbits foot in their pockets.

BlackNite383

Vince,

You have a good point. I don't read that many horror stories about nitrous like i used to when only LS1.com was around. I think the kits have gotten better and same with the tuning.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Most people think of all the money they could save if they take this shortcut and that shortcut. Most people base their decisions on one or two people who claim to have never had a problem with taking shortcuts, but I am here to tell you MANY of the people that post here do not even have a car. They are in FULL GUESS MODE and some unfortunately like giving bad advice. The Nitrous Moderators give the best advice IMO. If there are safety devices that can add to YOUR peace of mind and some how prolong the life of your HOBBY. By all means do it. Many of us can tell you it's not cheap to rebuild a motor. Have I had a problem with nitrous? No, but I cant afford to purchase a fourth motor. My last mishap was because I procrastinated on swapping out the valvesprings. A mistake I am paying for now. If you do it right the first time you will enjoy your hobby for a long time. Also, be paranoid with every little thing that pops up with your car. Inspect, inspect, inspect.. You might find something hiding that can be a potential future problem.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

I have used both wet & dry. It seems to run leaner using a dry shot.
I decided to switch to wet, much eaiser to tune the A/F with the Nitrous jets.

I have been running N20 for over 2 years with no issues. (Knocking wood). And I have all the safety devices.

I also monitor my engine on every run with EFI Live.

BlackNite383

Oh i plan on running the kit exactly the way it was intended. No shortcuts here. I like the fuel rail safety switch that most i've seen use. Once the fuel pressure drops below a certain pressure it cuts the N2O off. I'm installing a 255lph inline pump as well and i'll start with a 100 shot and see how that goes. From what i've seen TNT's 100 shot works really well.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

It does work well