wildchevy

I want to build either a stroker or an all bore using an iron block. How big can I get before the price really jumps? It looks like I can do a 408 stroker for under $4k. Will it cost me more to step up to a 422 or 427 or 434 or whatever? I appreciate the input!

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

I spent a little under 12k for my 422ci iron based motor. That is with me and a friend do all the install, and engine build. Remember that you can't just do the engine. You need a built tranny, 9"-12bolt rearend, fuel upgrades and suspension. It gets expensive quick.

Mike K.

I think some have gone as hight as 4.060 on an Iron block but you have to be real careful and have your block sonic tested at this bore. If you end up having to sleeve it you may as well go with the aluminum block at that point to save the weight. A sleeved block will cost you roughly 2k over a non-sleeved equivilant block.

ITSovr4U

I thought i could build a 408 for 4k also, But by the time its all done you will spend double that.

TeeKay

An aluminum stroker is gonna go 6 to 8K at the best. Add extras for drivetrain and fuel and other stuff. Add the cost of an all bore block to that. As they say, "WERD". HTH

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

Not if your not re-sleeving the block. My shortblock came in at just about 5K even and that was with a Lunati rotating assembly, a brand new LS-6 block, double T-chain, cam, new covers and all gaskets.

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

Then you should have a ported oil pump, perhaps a ARP crank bolt, hardened pushrods, maybe coat the pistons or at least the bearings depending, Lifters, consider a LSX or some intake work...an the list goes on...If you dont have the core for parts you need so much more, like sensors, covers, flywheel valley cover yada yada yada.
If doing yourself, a significant tool investment is required to build it properly.

GueSS Who

well you have to buy the rotating assy. The best price I have seen on this is 3600. That comes with an eagle crank. If you don't have a block it is another 550. Then you need head gskts and bolts and necc to finish the install. Then you need heads so it won't be a bottle neck. Then you need some bigger exhaust. Then you have to pay someone to install it. You have to modify he alternator to fit on the 6.0 block. It adds up quick. I got a deal on my 408.

wildchevy

I understand the price issues. I already have everything except the bottom end. My main concerns are:

1) can I go larger than a 408 without sleeves?
2) will the iron block make the C5 handle much different than the aluminum block?

I would love to hear from some of you who are running an iron block (F or Y body)

I know the power will more than off set the iron block. I can get either the iron 408 or the aluminum 346 short block for $3200.

so my question is what would you do?

Thanks for your help

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

LS1 blocks from 1997 and 1998 cannot be bored, but can be honed up to .0040".

The liners were redesigned for 1999+ blocks (including LS6) and can be bored up to .010"

All years of blocks are suitable for re-sleeving for bigger bore projects.

See attached Excel doc (I couldnt get the text to align correctly) for LS1 bore/stroke combos.

HTH
ROCNDAVE