zooguy

iTrader: (1)

i have some regular plugs for my car and i want to hit it with a 75 shot ... do i NEED colder plugs to do this small of a shot?
(i plan on getting some br7ef for when i do a 125 shot)

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

If you do run those plugs you are going to want to pull a little more timing than normal. I've done it and ran a little lean and POW! plugs melted and took out 2 valves.

_Adrenaline_

iTrader: (4)

Tr6's are like $2 a piece why wouldnt you change them?

If you cant afford them you cant afford nitrous.
If you dont want to do the labor, then you shouldnt be using nitrous.
Judging by the fact you are not doing plugs id assume you are not adjusting timing.
When you run nitrous you should read plugs anyways to see how the engine is taking it.

Sorry for the short rant, i know its a small shot but why would you even risk it? 1 hour of your time and $16 is pretty good insurance to save you the time and money after you melt a valve, break a ringland, spin a bearing, etc.. on your $1500 engine.

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

BTW TR6 is a projected tip plug ... nitrous likes non-projected tip plugs better

i thank you for your input but dont give bad advise.

Spark Plugs and Nitrous Oxide:
What Works, What Doesn’t, and Why
Over the years there seems to have been a great amount of technical material written about the simple operation of a spark plug and what they can do in relation to the way an engine runs. There are a few basic characteristics about spark plugs that you need to know to make an intelligent choice about the correct spark plug for your application.
First, and most important; a spark plug must be of the correct design to operate within the environment of your engine not the other way around. This means that the spark plug has virtually no influence on how the engine burns fuel or runs in general. The correct spark plug will simply survive the conditions present in your engine. A spark plug must maintain a certain temperature to keep itself clean. The wrong heat range can cause an overheated plug or a fouled plug. The heat range refers to the temperature 0f the ceramic material surrounding the center electrode.
Lean air/fuel ratios are more difficult to light because there are less fuel molecules in the area of the plug gap when the plug is scheduled to fire; thus, protected nose plugs were designed for late-model lean-burn engines. Modern high-energy ignition also allowed larger plug gaps. All the while this was happening, something else happened. Something that no one seems to have really noticed as the real culprit when the issue of factory type plugs being used with nitrous comes up. We’d like to clue you in.
Quite often, a factory type, wide-gap projected plug will produce a misfire condition after only a few seconds of nitrous use. The misfire is not due to the heat range. The misfire occurs because the ground strap of the spark plug becomes a glowing ember because it is too long to dissipate the extra heat produced by a nitrous-accelerated burn condition. The correct fix for this phenomenon is to replace the plugs with one that has a shorter ground strap. By doing this, you will shorten the path for the heat being absorbed by the ground strap. You can use the same heat range, you just have to find a non-protected nose plus with a shorter and preferably thicker ground strop.
If you only change the heat range of the spark plug to a colder heat range, you may very well still have the misfire problem. Since the length 0f the ground strap is the cause the misFire, a colder spark plug may have the same length of ground strap as the hotter plug you replaced it with.
Spark plug gaps should generally be .030” to .035”. Never try to gap a plug designed for an .060” gap down to .035’. Find the correct non-projected nose plug designed for an .035” gap.

_Adrenaline_

iTrader: (4)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/8499298-post7.html

Guess the FAQ and thousands of others have been given bad advice then.

Im sorry I wont put bad info in your thread anymore.

_Adrenaline_

iTrader: (4)

If you know so much about plugs, why did you start this thread in the first place? You should know that you should change them out then. Not to mention if you dont personally like the TR6 like some others, then just take my post and substitute BR7's in.

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

the "R" in the TR6 means its a projected tip right?

_Adrenaline_

iTrader: (4)

I am not sure, i know they are though. Sorry my nitrous only experience was over 3 years ago and back then everyone said TR6, and you can see that with the FAQ i posted. Since then ive either been FI or FI/nitrous and ive run tr6 on every one of my vehicles up to a 150 shot. Then a 7 range for any higher. I guess ive never had any issues with them. But looks like some people dont like them.

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

i just called and got some more insight from NGK tech:

"the TR6 is a projected tip plug and many people do run it with nitrous. The main thing we are dealing with here is the type of car you will be building. If the car is going to be a track only car and see large amounts of nitrous, then you are going to want the non-projected tip style plugs for sure. In a street car that drives around town and idles and is not spraying nitrous in large amounts then a projected tip is fine."

I then said that I plan to do a 75 shot to start with and move up to a 100. NGK advised that the heat range 6 is fine. He also added that if I move any higher then the 100 shot i should look at heat range 7. I asked about a 125 shot and he said that would be pushing the TR6 hard and advised to move to the TR7 if I do a 125 shot and the car still sees mainly the streets.

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

I stand corrected sir.