VintageFD

Gentlemen,

I know there have been quite a few threads dealing with this,
I have read them and understood them. I am just creating this thread to clarify and simply a few things about this swap. This can best be done by sharing links to more reviews and most importantly specific parts.

I have never owned an American car but I have gotten my hands dirty with various others cars (Rx-7's, Beemers, etc). My father owned a 78 T/A back int he day and I want to build a nice car for him.

my plans are:
LS2, LS3 swap with a mild cam.
Basic upgrades like brakes, gauges, re upholstery, and a nice paint job.
I am leaning towards building a car similar to the YEAR ONE project. I want to try to replicate the paint style and I will def be buying their 18inch snowflake rims and headlights.


My questions are:

-First off, I have NO CLUE about any good shops in Southern California which are familiar with either these cars and/or such swaps. I would love to hear from you guys as far as recommended shops! I live in Los Angeles.

-I am not sure what limitations I have with going with a 6.0L vs 5.3L as far as fitment and electronics. Am I safe going with a Ls2, Ls3? The dont have drive by wire correct? F-body oil pans should work with all of them?

-People tell me that the long tube Eddlebrock headers fit, can someone perhaps share a link to the specific ones? and what other headers will work?

-Perhaps my biggest fear, electronics. Whats the best way for incorporating harnesses? Do you guys recommend the adater route and if so which one?

-I know kits for this conversion have bad reputations, but given that most articles ive read where many years ago, are there are legit kits out today? I am having a difficult time finding a nice motor mount setup, and only found a few which where part of kits.

Appreciate the help,
Joe

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

Definitely spend some time digging through the stickies in this section. My experiences...

• F-body oil pans work, but so do corvette batwing pans. I've got one in my car.
• Edelbrock long tube headers work too. I've got those as well. Unfortunately, Edelbrock seems to have gotten out of the header business. Good luck finding them.
• I welded in my motor mounts with the engine attached to the original TH350 in the stock position. I then subsequently switched to a T56
• I used the LS7 style Front belt drive assembly set up (GMPP 19155067). My car is factory no-AC. I did not have to notch the frame or monkey with relocating the accessories - direct drop-in.
• I used a 2005 Corvette PS hose to attach to a 1981 TA power steering box. No mods needed except for adding a slight kink to the metal line near the box (to clear the center link)
• A stock TC-style PS pump will eventually overheat and push oil out the cap. A cooler won't fix this. Get a pressure reduction kit or buy a Turn One PS pump.
• I went with 12" manual front brakes from Wilwood, and factory 11" rear discs. There are cheaper alternatives out there that are just as good. Look up C5 brake conversions and LS1 F-body brake conversions.
• My gauges are all VDO, with electric-senders.
• My radiator fan was harvested from a 1998 Bonneville and it moves A LOT of air. No need for anything fancy.
• My radiator is a lightweight aluminum/plastic deal that I got from RockAuto.com, Part # CU709, $109 delivered to Indiana.
• My front bumper frame is aluminum (hand made - there are no aftermarket items for this)
• My windows are all Lexan (SpeedInc). Hood and trunk are fiberglass (Tamraz).
• Engine is a bone-stock LS1 longblock with an Edelbrock Thunder AVS carb and Edelbrock intake. It BARELY clears the hood, but the factory scoop is functional.
• Trans is a Texas Speed prepped C5 T56 with an Fbody tail section.
• Flywheel is an ACT lightweight steel and the clutch is a Spec 2+ with a lightweight pressure plate (intended use is for road racing).
• Drive shaft is a custom build from Action Machine in South Bend, IN. $395 delivered, set up for T56 and factory 10-bolt (3R style u-joints).
• Clutch master is a Wilwood, and took some modification to make fit. This was well worth the effort. There are conversion kits to get the 4th gen style hydraulic master to fit, and they do have their merits. My master leaked almost immediately after install, and I think this was due to the angle at which the shaft connected to the clutch pedal. Pushing the clutch in resulted in a lot of side load on the master cylinder shaft. If you do go with the 4th gen conversion, spend the dough on a Tick master. The Ram master is a piece of crap.
• I used Global West control arms and lowering springs for the front, and Global West L-3 springs in back. The car weighs roughly 2900 pounds and handles incredibly well.

boogiewonderland

The gift that keeps on giving get a 6.0 liter because all of the ls 6 litre heads which are crucial to a good power plant will not bolt onto a 5.3 so the added cost is worth it if you plan on going to a good flowing l92 head. if the car is going to be a retro looking car i would go with a carbed intake and the atomic efi system from msd.http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/...llation+Video+... this will keep it running smoooth with out the need for a laptop and keep it looking old school. i would tell you to go with a 4l60e trans with a stand alone controler. http://www.powertraincontrolsolution...impleshift.php . then get him a upgrade to his suspenion i like this. http://www.classicindustries.com/cam.../*h301101.html with all that he will love the car on every front.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

2900 lbs is quite a feat with these cars. I didn't see anything on Tamraz site on fiber glass hood/deck lid. Also, could you elaborate on the power steering pump over heating?

VintageFD

thanks for the info,
would that camaro 4 link fit trans am's as well? Any other options with the suspension or is 4-link the way to go?
Or something like this adquate for the back? http://www.globalwest.net/70-81-fire...-springs1.html

I am for sure going to use a t56 tranny btw so for now I am lookign for a complete motor, trans and hopefully cooling system from a donor car.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

The symptoms I'm dealing with are:

• cyclic squeaking after going over 3000 RPM, but only after the car's been running a while
• PS fluid coming out of the reservoir cap
• PS fluid gets dark pretty quick after change

I've replaced the idler pulleys and re-greased them, with no change. Added the cooler, again no change. From my understanding, this is a common issue. The Turn One PS pump is reconfigured to have a lower fluid output volume and increased internal recirculation capacity. The hood is approximately 7 years old. Their web site is frustrating to go through now. Best bet is probably just to google search "1981 Trans Am fiberglass hood" and poke through the results. AAR looks pretty good: http://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/...-firebird-hood

eroc022

iTrader: (7)

alot of the info I have is identical to 1981TA, and if you were closer I could cut you a good deal on motor, I am pulling mine to get a bigger plant built for some forced induction...

I am running everything I can, a/c which I notched the frame for, its a Vintage Air kit,
my fans are from a 4th gen Fbody... has both high and low speed
Fbody Oil pan,
C5 vette accessories... stock C5 line screws right into 1980 Steering box,
T56 with all upgraded internals
Tick adjustable master
ATS clutch master adapter
Carshop inc 1" setback plates,
stock 79 camaro/firebird chevy 350 clamshell mounts on engine
www.crossmembers.com T56 crossmember....
techrods harness, although I would get PSI if I did it again.
my ecu is mounted in the cab under the passenger seat.
tying in the factory harness to the engine is simple... just ask questions if you need to... you only need 3-4 of the original wires to make it run...

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I'm using the exact springs you linked to and they've been great.

VintageFD

That is really unfortunate, I just moved to California from Gaithersburg MD. I assume shipping charges wont make it worth it. I would prob buy the whole tranny/engine/harness package if i could

eroc022

iTrader: (7)

no prob not... out there, where the magazine companies are you should be able to find a complete swap for 250$ haha but you were right up the street from me, I am at Andrews AFB/ Waldorf area.... you just missed out on Sandy too.....!

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Kooks-645...450-S-0711.htm

The Kooks headers here fit very well, we are building our old '77 T/A. Bob

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the info. These issues are from road racing?(PS)

BuckeyeOcean71Bird

iTrader: (1)

What is everyone doing for a fuel tank?

eroc022

iTrader: (7)

im using a Tanksinc unit...

but I recommend vetteworks adapter for the factory 4th gen unit....
I will be swapping for this myself

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

Nope, just from daily hooliganism behind the wheel. The steering box has lower pressure and flow requirements (@800 pounds) than what the LS pumps are made for (@1500 to 1800 pounds). The pumps end up needing to recirculate more oil than they are normally capable of. The end result is overheating.

zamora7

iTrader: (4)

Link to it??

eroc022

iTrader: (7)

http://www.vetteworksonline.net/cata...j02v0o6i7p8fr2

VintageFD

You guys have been super helpful.
I think this thread should answer a lot questions future people undergoing such projects will have. So lets keep it going.
Ive managed to source a lot of parts which I would need.
I am just about to order the suspension btw.

I just discovered the the trans am roller I am planning on picking up has a brand new pontiac 467 stroker motor w/ 4x heads, etc done by speed-o-motive with a built auto tranny. I am now debating if I should maybe add a fuel injection kit for streetable/mpg/emission reasons, swap in a manual 6 speed and call it a day. Should be 500hp+ I think. I just dont know how horrible the mpg will be even with the EFI. I know its not going to be a priuis, but Im not sure we can do with 8mpg which is common with pontiac motors. I know its a classic muscle car, but I want this to be something my paps can drive a few times a week and not turn it into a garage showroom princess.

Opinons? lol

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

That overdrive will make a huge difference in MPG, especially if you do a lot of 45+ MPH driving. Around town will still kinda suck. A well tuned carb can still turn good numbers, efficiency-wise, but EFI makes the numbers more easily and also cold starts more smoothly.

Antt Hines

Do you have pics of the installation of the batwing oil pan in the Trans am? I have a 78 LS1 engine out of a 01 corvette and I'm trying to see how to use the stock batwing oil pan. Thanks