me_eat_rice

I have 4k and i am debating on what to get. Im thinkin about getting a 9'' rear end with a heavy duty drive shaft and a spec 3 clutch. OR should i go with power like a heads and cam setup? Maybe i have enough for forced induction stuff? What do u guys think I should do because I wanna rear end sooner or later.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

depends on whatbyour plans for the car are. if you can find a competant tuner and can save up a bit more and go FI. the other option is as you stated h/c and spec 3. dont know if you'll have enough to get the 12 bolt as well.

bigMAC

I accept donations

ss rally red

iTrader: (8)

If your like most of us and just have to spend the money on the car, I vote on the rear end/clutch/suspension stuff first. Then build the power . But you could invest the money instead

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

i second that. build it up to hold the power first. i did cause i was tired of all the broken car stories for stock rears, clutches and drive shafts.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

looking at your mods, id go this route get a 8.8" or 12 bolt used, someone from this site, spec III clutch, cam and a ls6 intake.

get the suspension stuff next, this way you got a awesome rear and clutch and your going to have some wicked power when you add a cam & ls6 intake.

Silly02SS

you should get 12bolt and heads

00Z28Convert

hmm.... ....I think my z is a direct relative of yours, a year younger cousin, but is financially challenged!
I say buy some stickers for yours (the right ones will cut .5 of off your et), and send the change to your cousin for a TC and some gears - jk/lol.
Your car looks great!!!

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

4 thousand dollars. If you street race and or hit the track often which most of us do then your gonna want to buy some tires and wheels. With the boltons you have and a 100 shot with the right tire setup you are easily a 11 sec car. I would go at least with ET streets but I would do drag slicks myself. Winning most races comes down to tracking more so then horsepower. Both are very critical to have a fast car but without traction HP and Torque dont mean ****. I just spent about 700 dollars of yours. Now because you are hooking from the hole a rearend would be my next suggestion. A 12 bolt or 8.8 would be the best bang for the buck. Save you some money and eat less HP then the 9". There goes another 2500. Now you have 800 dollars left. I put all the reat in clutch/flywheel/master cylinder/ shifter etc. Your stock clutch will never handle that setup.
Now you need to save up a few hundred dollars and get a good tune using LS1 edit. If done right on a 100 shot you should make around 430+ Horsepower and if you can drive the car should run mid 11's without breaking.

Apostle

I spent $4,000 on my ride after having it 1 week because I tore my Auburn diff up at the track. I was told that the rear was a bad weak spot on the M6 cars. I bought the car to have fun, so I didn't want it to break again. I went with the Moser 12 bolt with 4:10 gears and all the extra beefed up options you can get. BMR Torque Arm, Lower Control Arms, Lower Control Arms Relocation Brackets and Panhard Rod. I did all the work myself because I hate to pay for something I can do. Now I can play and not worry about it. If you think about it, it only makes sense to start here on a car anyway. Get all the power your making to the ground, then add more power.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

I would probably do a 12 bolt & a heads cam package. I think you could do both of them for real close to 4000 & have power & reliability

Jason
Texas Speed

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

billingsley 9 inch, spec stage 4 clutch with upgraded slave, large cam, slicks and skinnies, injectors/fuel pump, and a good nitrous tune on a 150-175 shot

now ur looking at 10's if you can drive and be able to drive home

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

yea, but thats not 4 grand either.
9 inch=2000
clutch/master/slave= bout 800
cam package=650+
tires and rims= minimum 1500
tune=400+
injectors/pump= around 500
nos kit=700
now asuming you install it all thats around 6500 bucks.
even if you buy used stuff its pushing it.
adds up quick dont it. not to bad if you say it fast.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

billingsley 9" = ~$2200
ram vds clutch = ~$800

with the other grand left, go to a good strip club and help put those girls thru college

me_eat_rice

so...........it sounds like 9'' and a clutch, then the power

5POINT7

Bro, you live in MN! Buy a beater for those crazy winters up there so you can perserve your f-bod.

me_eat_rice

i dont drive it in the winter, from late march to early november. 21,000 miles

slow

iTrader: (7)

i always say, if you can afford to buy a rearend, do that first.

Thats the one thing that concerns me about my car

Ryan

distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

12 bolt/9inch rearend
Pro stars with ET Drags
Lower Control Arms
LCA Relocation Brackets
Spohn Torque Arm w/ driveshaft loop
Subframe Connectors
Drag Shocks

Should still have a little left over, if you buy things on sale or used. If you do put it towards installs, or start saving for a good cam kit.. I believe TSP has a group purchase on them now. I prefer to get the hook first, and then go from there.

Peace,
Josh

CHRISPY

Buy a used 12 bolt and aftermarket DS for about 1500 total
Good clutch (I like the rev lok 2 for 420.00)
BMR extreme torque arm and subs (About 750)
used slicks/skinny combo (about 600)

Total: 3270 and you'll have the potential to run mid 11's with stock internal