MrBR

Deciding how I can go about a cheapo LS swap for my 1964 Impala with say a 4.8/5.3. I have a built 700r4 already so I just need the engine, special flywheel, special mounts, some gas tank mods, a return fuel line, and a tuner lol.
I'm not doing any of this myself by the way. Waaaaay out of my knowledge base. Curious to know how much itd cost. With labor.
Thinking about just getting an under 100k junkyard engine and using that.

Rick Speed

iTrader: (55)

where are you located?

MrBR

California

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

I thought truck to car engine swaps didn't fly out Californeeway?

MrBR

My car was built before hippie became a known term (1964 Model year built in Septermber 3 1963). Most cops won't have the audacity to check, especially since I don't have ridiculously loud exhaust. My car predates emission controls of any time except for PCV valves. Unless they seriously wanted to get me on something I'm pretty safe. Technically they could get me for 1985 Chevy 350 currently in it.

Spec134

iTrader: (5)

I've been quoted from $1k-$10k for labor alone. It all depends on what you want done and how much of it you can do yourself. I too leave in California (San Jose, CA). I've spoken with shop all the way from Sac down to San Diego trying to get an idea of what's a good price.

The best advice I can give you is if your on a budget you may need to learn how to do this with the help of friends because most shops are asking for first born and then some for simple swaps. Beware of guys who think they can do it because they've done their own. I'm not saying there's a problem with a hoppyist experimenting but you don't want one experimenting on your car. There's plenty of guys on Craigslist claiming they can do a swap for a few hundred up to a couple thousand.

MrBR

I know a mechanic, I gave him a rusty 1963 Impala for cheaper labor and because we're good friends at this point. I'm sure I can work out some sort of deal. Whenever I see a car with one of these though I see how complicated it is and wonder whether its worth the complication. Sometimes wonder if its better just driving my never-quite-running-right carb engine. It'll certainly save me a few bucks in everything but gas.
The depressing part is this is a newly rebuilt engine thats had its block/heads tested for cracks and has less than 1000 miles.

Spec134

iTrader: (5)

If you know someone who has experience with doing LS swaps I would say do it because in the long run you will be a lot happier. It is more complicated but it also is better. You can keep your old engine and save it use in a future project or sale it to fund this project.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

no reason a carb cant run perfect

MrBR

Not in my experience. A carburetor running good is like finding Santa clause, the Easter bunny, And the boogie man playing poker. I've never seen a carburetor that acted good constantly without changing moods based on the weather.

leon phelps

off the top of my head for the ls swap. I did mine in a 65 impala...

Engine/trans $3500
PCM program $100 remove vats
engine mount plates (used with original mounts) $50
trans mount...I fabbed
drive shaft shortened $100
new harness $500
street tune $500
exhaust manifolds $700
new exhaust $400
digital dash $800
fuel tank/pump $400 95 Impala lt1
fuel lines $400
fuel filter/regulator $50
corvette accessories $700 offset by selling firebird accessories from original engine
used firebird radiator (made my own mounts)
miscellaneous wire $300
brake switch $40
trans adapter shifter $100
jeep accelerator pedal $25


you may not need some of the stuff depending on what you buy.

MrBR

Holy cow, With my budget I'm better off with staying with what I have.

gjestico

iTrader: (5)

Have you considered an aftermarket TBI/carb style fuel injection system to replace your current carb on the engine you have ? FAST, Atomic EFI, Holley, there are several. Prob under $2200 with fuel pump and you doing the install.

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

Who ever quoted 3500 bucks for a 3.5 and tranny is clearly outside there mind I picked up a short block with 243 heads for 200 bucks........


You could almost piece together a Carb'd LS3 for 3500 bucks.......

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I guess I'm the exception to the rule. Had my TA out yesterday and plan to beat on it some tomorrow too. Worked fine all summer.

My spend so far:

Engine:
2500 mile Long block $800
Edelbrock Headers $600
Edelbrock Intake and controller: $500
GM MAP sensor (was missing from intake kit): $40
Edelbrock Thunder AVS Carb $300
Motor Mounts: $25
Accessories (GM 19155067 LS7) $800
head gaskets + rings and bearings for one piston: $125

Trans:
ACT Flywheel, Spec 2+ Clutch, lightweight pressure plate: $900
C5 T56 trans, Texas Speed prepped/rebuilt: $2200
Aluminum Drive shaft by Action Machine: $395
Remote Bleeder Line: $40
Wilwood Master: $85
GM Slave: $120
Modified 4th gen F-Body line: $20

MrBR

Well I already have a transmission, a 700r4 so I'd only need a running ls engine. Maybe I can save money buying a complete one with under 100k at a junkyard. Wondering how much THAT build would be with labor and the required tuning.

MrBR

I have considered that, but it seems it'll be a bleep finding parts for those kits later on, also if I ever decide to change engines I'll be forced to rebuild it the exact same. I'll basically be trapped with a guzzler.

AronZ28

iTrader: (2)

THIS . . . . .

Listen to this man right here. What sort of engine combo are you running? If you're still running the 283 or 327 with stock heads, intake manifold, a mild/stock cam and stock quadrajet carb your car "should" run pretty damn flawless.

What part of Cali are you in??? That can make a big difference on how you tune your car as well. If you're in So. Cal that engine should run flawlessly all the time since it never gets below 50 degrees and you can tune your carb for those type of weather conditions.

Just to give you some hope, I bought a 1988 Toyota pickup, 2wd 22R, 2 barrel carb with 100k about 15 years ago, sold it 7 years ago with 200k on it. In all that time I never had a single driveability problem, sucker would start within 2 seconds, engine cold or hot, temperature 0 or 100 degrees. Granted you did have to baby it a little bit in that first mile or two when it was below freezing, had to let the engine warm up a bit or else it would kind of buck on you.

MrBR

My car isn't stock, it's a POS 1980s 350 which I truly doubt is any better than a 327/283. in fact I think it's worse, I don't know how that's possible but that's how I feel. I honestly think no real (smog choking doesn't count) improvements in cars happened between the 1960s/early 1970s and 1980s.
And I have an edelbrock.
If I had another car to act as my daily driver and or gas cost what it did in the 1980s and 1990s I would care about it being a carburetor.

Spec134

iTrader: (5)

I've found complete 5.3's, 6.0's for less than 1k with the accessories. Depends on where your located?