what to use for a pedal/slave cylinder setup in an ls/t56 swap into a g-body
11-01-2012, 02:57 AM
#1
what to use for a pedal/slave cylinder setup in an ls/t56 swap into a g-body can i use a 4th gen f-body pedal/slave cylinder setup in my 88 monte carlo for my ls/t56 swap??? does anything have to be modified? or would i be better off just using an aftermarket clutch pedal, and if i use an aftermarket one can i still use the f-body slave cylinder???
11-01-2012, 11:49 AM
#2
4th gen pedals wont fit without modification. The aftermarket pedals are designed to work with the f-body slave. The problem with the aftermarket pedals is a very firm pedal because the master cylinder rod attachment point on the pedal is too far from the pedal pivot point.
11-01-2012, 03:12 PM
#3
Check over on turbobuick.com.
There's a build there, w/ a T56 in a GN.. He should be able to tell what was used....
Here's a start....
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads.../#post-2346031
There's a build there, w/ a T56 in a GN.. He should be able to tell what was used....
Here's a start....
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads.../#post-2346031
11-01-2012, 09:42 PM
#4
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I plan on buying this guys pedal when I go t56
this site should be helpful
http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/
this site should be helpful
http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/
11-01-2012, 11:51 PM
#5
in case you can't find anything that works for you based on OEM designs for other cars, consider rolling with aftermarket stuff. I stuck Wilwood masters in my car. It took some modifying, but the results are bulletproof. Green is a manual brake master, blue is the clutch master. The car stops like a dream and shifts very smoothly and consistently.
11-06-2012, 12:57 AM
#6
I plan on buying this guys pedal when I go t56
this site should be helpful
http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/
this site should be helpful
http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/
11-06-2012, 12:59 AM
#7
in case you can't find anything that works for you based on OEM designs for other cars, consider rolling with aftermarket stuff. I stuck Wilwood masters in my car. It took some modifying, but the results are bulletproof. Green is a manual brake master, blue is the clutch master. The car stops like a dream and shifts very smoothly and consistently.
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11-06-2012, 01:29 AM
#8
- The clutch master was relatively cheap - $85
- The brake master was $200
- The clutch line is a factory 4th gen piece, with the master cylinder end chopped off and an NPT 1/8" 90 degree fitting crimped on by Carquest for $20 (beats the hell out of buying a custom hose, which was $90+shipping)
Then tack on a few hours of fabrication work. I used stock 2nd gen F-Body manual pedals and made adjustable rods from threaded rod and brackets I got at Menards. It's a very strong and smooth setup, but if you want to halve the fabricating work, you'll probably want to get aftermarket adjustables.
I originally had a kit based on an 4th gen f-body master cylinder. The problem I had was that the angle of the push rod wasn't even remotely parallel to the pressing motion of the pedal. As the pedal got pushed in, not only did the rod push the plunger into the clutch master, it also exerted a lot of side load. The result was a master cylinder leak within 20 miles, which irritated the crap out of me.
With the Wilwood master positioned where it is (about 4 inches up from where the 4th gen master was), the push rod is at a much better angle.
11-06-2012, 01:36 AM
#9
- The clutch master was relatively cheap - $85
- The brake master was $200
- The clutch line is a factory 4th gen piece, with the master cylinder end chopped off and an NPT 1/8" 90 degree fitting crimped on by Carquest for $20 (beats the hell out of buying a custom hose, which was $90+shipping)
Then tack on a few hours of fabrication work. I used stock 2nd gen F-Body manual pedals and made adjustable rods from threaded rod and brackets I got at Menards. It's a very strong and smooth setup, but if you want to halve the fabricating work, you'll probably want to get aftermarket adjustables.
I originally had a kit based on an 4th gen f-body master cylinder. The problem I had was that the angle of the push rod wasn't even remotely parallel to the pressing motion of the pedal. As the pedal got pushed in, not only did the rod push the plunger into the clutch master, it also exerted a lot of side load. The result was a master cylinder leak within 20 miles, which irritated the crap out of me.
With the Wilwood master positioned where it is (about 4 inches up from where the 4th gen master was), the push rod is at a much better angle.
http://www.gsi-interiorss.com/item/t...-cu/lid=983837
11-06-2012, 08:09 AM
#10
could i run the clutch master cylinder with my factory brake master cylinder on my monte carlo??? and could i use this pedal with it? i hope so because that seems like the easiest way to do this haha
http://www.gsi-interiorss.com/item/t...-cu/lid=983837
http://www.gsi-interiorss.com/item/t...-cu/lid=983837
I would run a Tick 4th gen clutch master cylinder if you needed power brakes.
The pedal you show looks like a nice, solid piece. It should do fine, but seems a bit pricey. I used these: http://www.classicindustries.com/cam...rts/kw328.html
11-06-2012, 03:44 PM
#11
You probably can, but not with a power brake booster. If you do run power brakes and the Wilwood clutch master in the position depicted, I guarantee you will have you cursing life for several days straight. That is a VERY tight spot to reach with a booster in the way.
I would run a Tick 4th gen clutch master cylinder if you needed power brakes.
The pedal you show looks like a nice, solid piece. It should do fine, but seems a bit pricey. I used these: http://www.classicindustries.com/cam...rts/kw328.html
I would run a Tick 4th gen clutch master cylinder if you needed power brakes.
The pedal you show looks like a nice, solid piece. It should do fine, but seems a bit pricey. I used these: http://www.classicindustries.com/cam...rts/kw328.html
any idea what the tick 4th gen clutch cylinder goes for??
11-06-2012, 08:33 PM
#12
So, are you sitting down? It looks like the Tick Master goes for around $300. http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/
Thus, the reason why I went the full-manual approach. I saved money and got both brake and clutch masters at the same time. The pedals I linked to are also drilled for both power and manual brakes. The fun part would be to see if 2nd Gen f-body pedals drop into a G body. I *think* they will, but you'll want to double-check.
If you're interested, I'll post a pic of my pedal assembly, with measurements. I'm doing brake work tonight anyway - swapping out the factory rear calipers for G-body fronts to eliminate E-brake and goofy brake plumbing on the axle.
Thus, the reason why I went the full-manual approach. I saved money and got both brake and clutch masters at the same time. The pedals I linked to are also drilled for both power and manual brakes. The fun part would be to see if 2nd Gen f-body pedals drop into a G body. I *think* they will, but you'll want to double-check.
If you're interested, I'll post a pic of my pedal assembly, with measurements. I'm doing brake work tonight anyway - swapping out the factory rear calipers for G-body fronts to eliminate E-brake and goofy brake plumbing on the axle.
11-07-2012, 04:57 AM
#13
So, are you sitting down? It looks like the Tick Master goes for around $300. http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/
Thus, the reason why I went the full-manual approach. I saved money and got both brake and clutch masters at the same time. The pedals I linked to are also drilled for both power and manual brakes. The fun part would be to see if 2nd Gen f-body pedals drop into a G body. I *think* they will, but you'll want to double-check.
If you're interested, I'll post a pic of my pedal assembly, with measurements. I'm doing brake work tonight anyway - swapping out the factory rear calipers for G-body fronts to eliminate E-brake and goofy brake plumbing on the axle.
Thus, the reason why I went the full-manual approach. I saved money and got both brake and clutch masters at the same time. The pedals I linked to are also drilled for both power and manual brakes. The fun part would be to see if 2nd Gen f-body pedals drop into a G body. I *think* they will, but you'll want to double-check.
If you're interested, I'll post a pic of my pedal assembly, with measurements. I'm doing brake work tonight anyway - swapping out the factory rear calipers for G-body fronts to eliminate E-brake and goofy brake plumbing on the axle.
11-08-2012, 12:07 PM
#14
also whatre you guys using for throwout bearings? would a stock ls1 work? thanks
EDIT: 1981TA could i use a factory 4th gen f body clutch master cylinder and throwout bearing with the wilwwod brake master cylinder??
EDIT: 1981TA could i use a factory 4th gen f body clutch master cylinder and throwout bearing with the wilwwod brake master cylinder??
Last edited by 1988montecarloss; 11-08-2012 at 12:28 PM.
