High mileage LS1
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
High mileage LS1
So I'm going back to school and looking for a car to get me through in the $6-7k range. I'd like something fun to drive that I wont have to heavily modify to really enjoy. The LS1 WS6 I've driven seems to fit that bill perfectly, but in my price range the cars I'm finding have either close to or slightly over 100k miles.
How do you more experienced guys feel about buying a sports car with that kind of mileage? I can perform most repairs myself, and work at a car dealership so have lifts and experienced hands to help out when needed. Although I'm sure parts alone are going to cost more than the average car...
Would you even consider it? Or am I better off finding a Police Interceptor or something and just driving it til the wheels fall off.
How do you more experienced guys feel about buying a sports car with that kind of mileage? I can perform most repairs myself, and work at a car dealership so have lifts and experienced hands to help out when needed. Although I'm sure parts alone are going to cost more than the average car...
Would you even consider it? Or am I better off finding a Police Interceptor or something and just driving it til the wheels fall off.
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I got my Trans Am with just over 100k miles, 103 to be exact. Things to look out for are the usuals, window motors/regulators, headlight motors, rear end, belts, the usual things. If at all possible, get a compression test done on the motor. Parts aren't too bad, alot of them you don't have to get new, you can try to find a F-Body in a salvage yard to get some parts. Really, as long as you're not buying it from some kid who probably kicked the **** out of it, then you should be ok, alot of these F-Bodys go past 200k miles when serviced properly. You're not going to find many 20-50k F-body's for anything under 10k at all.
#5
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Most important will be to find out who owned the car before you. Like stated, find one that has been ragged on by a teenager for 100K miles and it is probably end of life.
My example - I bought my 98 TA with 230K miles on it but it was a one owner, older lady who was a sales manager and traveled a ton in it (obviously). Plus it was on a fleet maintenance program so it was very well taken care of. It now has 270K and I've only changed the rear springs/struts, and maintenance like brakes, belts.
It all comes down to how well it was taken care of really. 100K is nothing for these motors if properly cared for. Keep in mind I"m talking motor only. The A4, 4L60E transmissions don't have the greatest reputation. And all the other things in between as mentioned already
My example - I bought my 98 TA with 230K miles on it but it was a one owner, older lady who was a sales manager and traveled a ton in it (obviously). Plus it was on a fleet maintenance program so it was very well taken care of. It now has 270K and I've only changed the rear springs/struts, and maintenance like brakes, belts.
It all comes down to how well it was taken care of really. 100K is nothing for these motors if properly cared for. Keep in mind I"m talking motor only. The A4, 4L60E transmissions don't have the greatest reputation. And all the other things in between as mentioned already
#6
TECH Fanatic
If you know how to perform basic repairs and have access to a lift and you have mechanically inclined friends I wouldn't worry too much about the milage. Just find an f-body that doesn't appear to be beaten on and do the repairs as needed.
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys, your responses have got me kind of excited haha
While on the topic of high mileage cars... I've read that one thing to pay attention for on these cars is rear end whine. Is this kind of a weak link? I would only be looking for MT cars... research seems to show that these handle abuse pretty well - true?
While on the topic of high mileage cars... I've read that one thing to pay attention for on these cars is rear end whine. Is this kind of a weak link? I would only be looking for MT cars... research seems to show that these handle abuse pretty well - true?
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks guys, your responses have got me kind of excited haha
While on the topic of high mileage cars... I've read that one thing to pay attention for on these cars is rear end whine. Is this kind of a weak link? I would only be looking for MT cars... research seems to show that these handle abuse pretty well - true?
While on the topic of high mileage cars... I've read that one thing to pay attention for on these cars is rear end whine. Is this kind of a weak link? I would only be looking for MT cars... research seems to show that these handle abuse pretty well - true?
#9
TECH Resident
you just gotta take your time and look. I picked my 98 SS with 83k miles in Hutto for $5500 needed tires and im getting the SS hood resprayed but otherwise it was verry clean... has a Monster clutch, Tick MC, and some other little stuff...
#11
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea man the rear end isn't the strongest, if it whines then that means it's on its way out. If you want to dig deeper into it, it may mean that car has been beaten on, because a 10 bolt can handle normal street driving, it's the hard launches that get to it from what I read.
And just a tip, before you go to view the car, try to narrow your search down to 2 or 3 cars. Things I wish I would've done when I bought my car is get an inspection, and I really really REALLY wish I would've gotten an M6. I also think I bought this car a bit too quickly, the hood and the front bumber need repainting, and there was a perfect Z28 for the same price same miles without any paint problems. I could have done better with my money, but overall I'm happy with my purchase. Just make sure that when you get in that car, you know that every time you get in it, you'll be glad you got it.
And just a tip, before you go to view the car, try to narrow your search down to 2 or 3 cars. Things I wish I would've done when I bought my car is get an inspection, and I really really REALLY wish I would've gotten an M6. I also think I bought this car a bit too quickly, the hood and the front bumber need repainting, and there was a perfect Z28 for the same price same miles without any paint problems. I could have done better with my money, but overall I'm happy with my purchase. Just make sure that when you get in that car, you know that every time you get in it, you'll be glad you got it.
#13
My last z28 camaro had 180K all original. The previous owner went to the drag strip every week in the 2 years he owned it and it all held up. I probably wouldnt have bought it if i had known that but it was a reliable DD with the 12k i put on it in the year i owned it. This was back in 2010. I recently seen videos of it on youtube racing and it has to have around 200k on it now and last i heard, its still all original.
These cars are bulletproof.
These cars are bulletproof.
#15
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
the one I am driving currently has 233,000 miles , full bolt on car that cracked 11.9's stock ORIGINAL internals in engine ,t56,342 and 10 bolt
the one my wife is driving currently has full exhaust inc long tubes and a lid 170,000 miles stock ORIGINAL internals in engine ,4l60 , 10 bolt 273
got a spare full bolt on car that I havent ever had on the road with 173,000 miles that had more abusive owners than the other 2 but still stock ORIGINAL internals in the engine , but the 4l60 had been blown up and built/stalled , and the original 10 bolt had been blown up and now has 373's
I also run around in a 3800 supercharged buick 4 door fwd Regal GS with 220,000 that used to be my daily commuter/toy and now its kinda my winter car that is also stock ORIGINAL internals in engine and transaxle - it has seen hundred of passes in the mid to low 13's ( 13.1 @109 pb)
moral of the story condition at time of purchase is WAYYY more important than miles , people compliment my highest miles cars ( M6 camaro & buick) all the time and say they cant have many miles because both are in super condition in & out with well over 200k , I would rather buy a 200k car that has been obsessed over than a 100k car that needs everything.
BTW I paid 3 grand and change for each of my ls1 cars with mods allready in place due to miles on your budget that would leave plenty to replace broken stuff but only if your hard on what you buy.
M6 cars tend to chew drivetrains up at a much higher rate than a4 cars so your not doing yourself a favor there but I understand I prefer driving my m6 car but its easier to go fast consistently with an a4 car and its far less likely to spit out the 10 bolt
the one my wife is driving currently has full exhaust inc long tubes and a lid 170,000 miles stock ORIGINAL internals in engine ,4l60 , 10 bolt 273
got a spare full bolt on car that I havent ever had on the road with 173,000 miles that had more abusive owners than the other 2 but still stock ORIGINAL internals in the engine , but the 4l60 had been blown up and built/stalled , and the original 10 bolt had been blown up and now has 373's
I also run around in a 3800 supercharged buick 4 door fwd Regal GS with 220,000 that used to be my daily commuter/toy and now its kinda my winter car that is also stock ORIGINAL internals in engine and transaxle - it has seen hundred of passes in the mid to low 13's ( 13.1 @109 pb)
moral of the story condition at time of purchase is WAYYY more important than miles , people compliment my highest miles cars ( M6 camaro & buick) all the time and say they cant have many miles because both are in super condition in & out with well over 200k , I would rather buy a 200k car that has been obsessed over than a 100k car that needs everything.
BTW I paid 3 grand and change for each of my ls1 cars with mods allready in place due to miles on your budget that would leave plenty to replace broken stuff but only if your hard on what you buy.
M6 cars tend to chew drivetrains up at a much higher rate than a4 cars so your not doing yourself a favor there but I understand I prefer driving my m6 car but its easier to go fast consistently with an a4 car and its far less likely to spit out the 10 bolt
#17
You can refresh the top end of these motors for a couple hundred bucks and some elbow grease if you want to really get into it and make sure you have a reliable ride. Couple gaskets ($100 altogether), ARP bolts ($130ish) Decked and cleaned ($100-150) not a complicated job for a garage mechanic.
#18
12 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
My last z28 camaro had 180K all original. The previous owner went to the drag strip every week in the 2 years he owned it and it all held up. I probably wouldnt have bought it if i had known that but it was a reliable DD with the 12k i put on it in the year i owned it. This was back in 2010. I recently seen videos of it on youtube racing and it has to have around 200k on it now and last i heard, its still all original.
These cars are bulletproof.
These cars are bulletproof.