Seafoam question, deep creep in spark plug holes?
11-08-2012, 12:53 AM
#1
Seafoam question, deep creep in spark plug holes? I want to Seafoam my 177k mile Volvo S70 and was curious if it is okay to spray Seafoam Deep Creep directly into the cylinders via the spark plug holes? I was thinking of pouring Seafoam into the vacuum line to kill it, then immediately pull the plugs and spray in Deep Creep and let it sit for 20 minutes.
This car also has a turbo. Could the Seafoam hurt it?
Thanks!
This car also has a turbo. Could the Seafoam hurt it?
Thanks!
11-08-2012, 12:04 PM
#4
If you're using enough seafoam to kill it, literally flooding the cylinders with this stuff, then you don't need to pour any extra in the cylinders. There will be plenty of leftover unburnt solution to do what you want it to do in there.
The reason why you're supposed to slowly pour it in then immediately dump a shitload into it at the very end is for this exact reason. To give the solution both time in the burning cylinder to work and also for it to chill afterwards with the engine off. I think you're overdoing it by also dumping it into the cylinders afterwards. If anything, do the whole process again or keep pouring stuff in for longer if you want to realllly clean it.
He's not talking about the actual product to be used, we all know seafoam is good stuff. What he's talking about is the process for pouring seafoam in...which has been found to be a poor choice to do so through the rear vacuum line on LS engines.
The reason why you're supposed to slowly pour it in then immediately dump a shitload into it at the very end is for this exact reason. To give the solution both time in the burning cylinder to work and also for it to chill afterwards with the engine off. I think you're overdoing it by also dumping it into the cylinders afterwards. If anything, do the whole process again or keep pouring stuff in for longer if you want to realllly clean it.
What? I've used seafoam dozens of times with good results,
11-08-2012, 02:31 PM
#6
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That was the popular place to poor it into a couple years ago, the problem was it only got the 2 back cylinders ... specifically on the engine with an intake like an LT/LS1. Its better to pour it upstream of the of all the cylinders.
11-08-2012, 02:42 PM
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I too have also been pouring it into the brake booster for years.
So where are you supposed to pour it in, upstream? lol
Also I just did it slowly and let the car run for 15 minutes and drive a little.
So you guys are saying to pour it slowly then all at once and shut the car off?
How much do you pour in quickly? half of it??
And how long do you leave the car off for? How long do you let it in run when you start it?
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11-09-2012, 08:34 PM
#8
....ok.......If you pour SeaFoam or any type of fluid/foam into the brake booster line while the engine is running the ONLY two cylinders that will get any of that fluid will be the back two cylinders......the other 6 will get ZERO. The air entering the intake like a hurricane flows REARWARD.....keeping anything entering that brake booster port on the rear of the intake to be slammed against the back of the intake, then sucked straight down into the rear two cylinders. Its a physics IMPOSSIBILITY for any of it to flow forward of that rear wall.
By pouring fluid into the brake booster line you also risk hydrolocking those two cylinders.....it can happen. Not easy, but it can happen. Then you'll be buying a new engine.
So....where does all this smoke come from......this is the hilarious part that has been fooling people for years. Its the puddle of SeaFoam that ends up settling to the bottom of the intake after you stall the engine out when you pour the big gulp into the line. Then whatever is in that entire line when the engine stops also runs down the line and pools in the bottom of the intake. Then when you start it up, and things get warm.......the air ripping through the intake slowly picks up that SeaFoam puddle carrying that mist through the heads and into the cylinders....SMOKE SHOW.
The front 6 cylinders stay as dirty as they've always been......lol
So.....if you want to do a true top end cleaning you must buy a product that is made for cleaning the top end. These products are usually a FOAM. Foam cannot hydrolock the engine and most of the foam products EXPAND as it sits, allowing the foam to reach every inch of the intake and heads. Fluid cannot do this.
You must introduce this foam into the FRONT vacuum line on the passengers side of the intake. Just buy a 2 foot piece of 3/8" heater hose to use for this process. Pop it on, start the engine and spray it into the hose. I use a clear hose so I can see it foaming up in the line. This allows the FOAM to actually get carried through the entire inside of the intake and its runners along the natural air-flow of the air entering the intake....all 8 of them evenly. ONLY idle the engine during this process........NO REVVING....ever.
***Engine must be FULLY HOT when you spray it in.....not warm, not cold....HOT HOT.
You must have someone in the car ready to shut the engine down the second the can starts to get low and NOT let it run dry and then turn the engine off. If you let the can run dry the engine will suck all the foam through the engine in 1 second. Shutting the engine off as soon as the starts to get low allows the foam to remain everywhere in the top end......letting it sit and expand. 2-3 hours later...or more if you can.....you restart it and let it idle for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then you go for a very mellow drive for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then after you see NO MORE smoke coming out while driving mellow, you can then do a GRADUAL acceleration to about 60-70mph, take your foot off the gas and let it slow down to about 30mph. Then do that 2-3 more times until you feel/hear absolutely ZERO misfires, hesitation or anything that resembles roughness during those accelerations. Then do one more gradual acceleration to make damn sure its SMOOTH as glass. If it is....you're ready for a wide open throttle run........
If you go WOT to soon and you get a misfire, hesitation, detonation, roughness..........you could literally damage the engine beyond repair. Those are engine killers at WOT. So just make sure its running and accelerating smooth before WOT.....
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) is easily the best product the market has ever seen, but very hard to find. Dealers sometimes have cases of it, sometimes its nowhere. I've found it on ebay many times. Its about $8.00 a can. Amazing ****.
GM brand CCC is also very good stuff. So is Yamaha outboard motor CCC, which you can get at most Yamaha dealers.
There ya go.......
SeaFoam....amazing stuff for putting into the gas tank. I pour a FULL can into 1/8 tank of gas every 3 months. Cleans the entire fuel system. You can also pour 2 cans into your oil immediately before an oil change and idle a warm engine for 10 minutes before the oil change. Never drive or rev the engine with SeaFoam in the oil. Just right before the oil change to clean all the gunk out. Spray SeaFoam is great for cleaning the TB, linkages, cables, IAT sensor, IAC sensor, etc......
.
11-09-2012, 10:59 PM
#9
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Ok, here ya go.....wait.........ok.......
If you pour SeaFoam or any type of fluid/foam into the brake booster line while the engine is running the ONLY two cylinders that will get any of that fluid will be the back two cylinders......the other 6 will get ZERO. The air entering the intake like a hurricane flows REARWARD.....keeping anything entering that brake booster port on the rear of the intake to be slammed against the back of the intake, then sucked straight down into the rear two cylinders. Its a physics IMPOSSIBILITY for any of it to flow forward of that rear wall.
By pouring fluid into the brake booster line you also risk hydrolocking those two cylinders.....it can happen. Not easy, but it can happen. Then you'll be buying a new engine.
So....where does all this smoke come from......this is the hilarious part that has been fooling people for years. Its the puddle of SeaFoam that ends up settling to the bottom of the intake after you stall the engine out when you pour the big gulp into the line. Then whatever is in that entire line when the engine stops also runs down the line and pools in the bottom of the intake. Then when you start it up, and things get warm.......the air ripping through the intake slowly picks up that SeaFoam puddle carrying that mist through the heads and into the cylinders....SMOKE SHOW.
The front 6 cylinders stay as dirty as they've always been......lol
So.....if you want to do a true top end cleaning you must buy a product that is made for cleaning the top end. These products are usually a FOAM. Foam cannot hydrolock the engine and most of the foam products EXPAND as it sits, allowing the foam to reach every inch of the intake and heads. Fluid cannot do this.
You must introduce this foam into the FRONT vacuum line on the passengers side of the intake. Just buy a 2 foot piece of 3/8" heater hose to use for this process. Pop it on, start the engine and spray it into the hose. I use a clear hose so I can see it foaming up in the line. This allows the FOAM to actually get carried through the entire inside of the intake and its runners along the natural air-flow of the air entering the intake....all 8 of them evenly. ONLY idle the engine during this process........NO REVVING....ever.
***Engine must be FULLY HOT when you spray it in.....not warm, not cold....HOT HOT.
You must have someone in the car ready to shut the engine down the second the can starts to get low and NOT let it run dry and then turn the engine off. If you let the can run dry the engine will suck all the foam through the engine in 1 second. Shutting the engine off as soon as the starts to get low allows the foam to remain everywhere in the top end......letting it sit and expand. 2-3 hours later...or more if you can.....you restart it and let it idle for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then you go for a very mellow drive for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then after you see NO MORE smoke coming out while driving mellow, you can then do a GRADUAL acceleration to about 60-70mph, take your foot off the gas and let it slow down to about 30mph. Then do that 2-3 more times until you feel/hear absolutely ZERO misfires, hesitation or anything that resembles roughness during those accelerations. Then do one more gradual acceleration to make damn sure its SMOOTH as glass. If it is....you're ready for a wide open throttle run........
If you go WOT to soon and you get a misfire, hesitation, detonation, roughness..........you could literally damage the engine beyond repair. Those are engine killers at WOT. So just make sure its running and accelerating smooth before WOT.....
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) is easily the best product the market has ever seen, but very hard to find. Dealers sometimes have cases of it, sometimes its nowhere. I've found it on ebay many times. Its about $8.00 a can. Amazing ****.
GM brand CCC is also very good stuff. So is Yamaha outboard motor CCC, which you can get at most Yamaha dealers.
There ya go.......
SeaFoam....amazing stuff for putting into the gas tank. I pour a FULL can into 1/8 tank of gas every 3 months. Cleans the entire fuel system. You can also pour 2 cans into your oil immediately before an oil change and idle a warm engine for 10 minutes before the oil change. Never drive or rev the engine with SeaFoam in the oil. Just right before the oil change to clean all the gunk out. Spray SeaFoam is great for cleaning the TB, linkages, cables, IAT sensor, IAC sensor, etc......
.
....ok.......If you pour SeaFoam or any type of fluid/foam into the brake booster line while the engine is running the ONLY two cylinders that will get any of that fluid will be the back two cylinders......the other 6 will get ZERO. The air entering the intake like a hurricane flows REARWARD.....keeping anything entering that brake booster port on the rear of the intake to be slammed against the back of the intake, then sucked straight down into the rear two cylinders. Its a physics IMPOSSIBILITY for any of it to flow forward of that rear wall.
By pouring fluid into the brake booster line you also risk hydrolocking those two cylinders.....it can happen. Not easy, but it can happen. Then you'll be buying a new engine.
So....where does all this smoke come from......this is the hilarious part that has been fooling people for years. Its the puddle of SeaFoam that ends up settling to the bottom of the intake after you stall the engine out when you pour the big gulp into the line. Then whatever is in that entire line when the engine stops also runs down the line and pools in the bottom of the intake. Then when you start it up, and things get warm.......the air ripping through the intake slowly picks up that SeaFoam puddle carrying that mist through the heads and into the cylinders....SMOKE SHOW.
The front 6 cylinders stay as dirty as they've always been......lol
So.....if you want to do a true top end cleaning you must buy a product that is made for cleaning the top end. These products are usually a FOAM. Foam cannot hydrolock the engine and most of the foam products EXPAND as it sits, allowing the foam to reach every inch of the intake and heads. Fluid cannot do this.
You must introduce this foam into the FRONT vacuum line on the passengers side of the intake. Just buy a 2 foot piece of 3/8" heater hose to use for this process. Pop it on, start the engine and spray it into the hose. I use a clear hose so I can see it foaming up in the line. This allows the FOAM to actually get carried through the entire inside of the intake and its runners along the natural air-flow of the air entering the intake....all 8 of them evenly. ONLY idle the engine during this process........NO REVVING....ever.
***Engine must be FULLY HOT when you spray it in.....not warm, not cold....HOT HOT.
You must have someone in the car ready to shut the engine down the second the can starts to get low and NOT let it run dry and then turn the engine off. If you let the can run dry the engine will suck all the foam through the engine in 1 second. Shutting the engine off as soon as the starts to get low allows the foam to remain everywhere in the top end......letting it sit and expand. 2-3 hours later...or more if you can.....you restart it and let it idle for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then you go for a very mellow drive for 15 minutes. NO REVVING. Then after you see NO MORE smoke coming out while driving mellow, you can then do a GRADUAL acceleration to about 60-70mph, take your foot off the gas and let it slow down to about 30mph. Then do that 2-3 more times until you feel/hear absolutely ZERO misfires, hesitation or anything that resembles roughness during those accelerations. Then do one more gradual acceleration to make damn sure its SMOOTH as glass. If it is....you're ready for a wide open throttle run........
If you go WOT to soon and you get a misfire, hesitation, detonation, roughness..........you could literally damage the engine beyond repair. Those are engine killers at WOT. So just make sure its running and accelerating smooth before WOT.....
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) is easily the best product the market has ever seen, but very hard to find. Dealers sometimes have cases of it, sometimes its nowhere. I've found it on ebay many times. Its about $8.00 a can. Amazing ****.
GM brand CCC is also very good stuff. So is Yamaha outboard motor CCC, which you can get at most Yamaha dealers.
There ya go.......
SeaFoam....amazing stuff for putting into the gas tank. I pour a FULL can into 1/8 tank of gas every 3 months. Cleans the entire fuel system. You can also pour 2 cans into your oil immediately before an oil change and idle a warm engine for 10 minutes before the oil change. Never drive or rev the engine with SeaFoam in the oil. Just right before the oil change to clean all the gunk out. Spray SeaFoam is great for cleaning the TB, linkages, cables, IAT sensor, IAC sensor, etc......
.
However whats even crazier, is I was told by at least a half of dozen gear heads that build cars do it the wrong way. I cannot wait to show them this.This is life changing, Thanks man, Your post should be etched into the side of every damn can of seafoam.
So let me ask you this, If you have put seafoam in your cars in the past through the brake booster, but you pour it slowly to where the car never died out.
Is this still bad for your engine? Should I be worried about anything?
11-10-2012, 12:03 AM
#10
Dude...You just blew my mind. lol Seriously, I feel like a complete idiot right now to know that I have been doing this wrong, they way you just said on many cars for many years. However whats even crazier, is I was told by at least a half of dozen gear heads that build cars do it the wrong way. I cannot wait to show them this.
This is life changing, Thanks man, Your post should be etched into the side of every damn can of seafoam.
So let me ask you this, If you have put seafoam in your cars in the past through the brake booster, but you pour it slowly to where the car never died out.
Is this still bad for your engine? Should I be worried about anything?
However whats even crazier, is I was told by at least a half of dozen gear heads that build cars do it the wrong way. I cannot wait to show them this.This is life changing, Thanks man, Your post should be etched into the side of every damn can of seafoam.
So let me ask you this, If you have put seafoam in your cars in the past through the brake booster, but you pour it slowly to where the car never died out.
Is this still bad for your engine? Should I be worried about anything?
You didn;t damage your engine.......if you hydrolock your engine you'll know it, it won't run anymore and if you try to you might crack the block from the broken rod thats spinning around. A race shop locally here, like 2 months ago, pulled a car out of the garage just idling and the filter (turbo car) sucked up some water in a puddle...engine BROKE. It was trashed. Had to come out and get torn down and rebuilt.
Water or any fluid is NOT compressible.....if enough fluid gets into a cylinder it can be the end of the engine.
Look at the pics below.......this is the hose I use and the MCCC foam top end cleaner....hooked to the forward vacuum port. Hook it up, start the HOT engine, spray it in. Thats it.
.
11-10-2012, 03:04 PM
#12
Thanks for the advice LS6427, makes sense to me. Next time I seafoam the truck I'll do it through the PCV port which is right smack dab in the top middle of the intake. Or would you still suggest the front of the intake?
In regard to the Volvo I was asking about, I ended up putting about 1 Tbsp of liquid sea foam down each cylinder through the spark plug. Worked great and runs a little better now. The MCCC stuff looks like a better choice however.
In regard to the Volvo I was asking about, I ended up putting about 1 Tbsp of liquid sea foam down each cylinder through the spark plug. Worked great and runs a little better now. The MCCC stuff looks like a better choice however.
11-10-2012, 05:39 PM
#13
If your engine can idle without the MAF you can even spray it right into the front throttle blade plate...it will get sucked in. Some cars you can do it this way, not sure how an LSx engine would run without the MAF and bellows/TB hose attached.
DON'T USE SeaFoam....its a liquid. Too heavy. It gets sucked in and just falls down to the lowest point it can reach by gravity...after the engine is turned off.
Foam cleaners stay in the top end and EXPAND as it sits....after you turn the engine off. Thats where the cleaning comes from because the cleaner (foam) stays in contact with the walls, top and bottom of the top end and can soak into the build-ups of dirt for 2-3 hours.
Just buy some foam type cleaner.......SeaFoam was never designed to clean top ends.....no liquids are.
Order it from the link that "Decadence75" posted above....if your local Dodge/Chrysler dealer doesn't have it.
Look....years ago I tried the SeaFoam thing. I did it 3 times in one week to my Trans Am with my 427ci when it had almost 100,000 miles. I used a full can each time.
Then I realized how the SeaFoam cannot touch any of the front 6 cylinders or runners.
A couple weeks later I got some MOPAR CCC from my friend that works at a Dodge dealer......it smoked more than all 3 SeaFoams put together, it was ridiculous how good it worked.
.
