64 Chevelle LS swap questions
11-08-2012, 09:31 PM
#1
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64 Chevelle LS swap questions Ok after about 5 hours of reading and really not figuring anything out I thought I would just ask people a couple of questions. We are doing a 64 Chevelle 5.3 4L60E swap. What oil pan is being used??? I have no problem modifyingthe crossmember if I have to but would rather not, The car sits pretty low in the front so ground clearance is a must.
Next questions is will Fbody or GTO exhaust manifold work wit this swap?
Last question, Will the GTO front drive with this swap? Thanks, to all who might help pointing me in the right direction.
Next questions is will Fbody or GTO exhaust manifold work wit this swap?
Last question, Will the GTO front drive with this swap? Thanks, to all who might help pointing me in the right direction.
11-09-2012, 12:55 AM
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The autokraft oil pan is a nice piece that offers good ground clearance but a little pricey. There are others. For manifolds you would want 98-02 F body. Not sure on the GTO front drive accesories as I am using the Corvette accesories setup on my 67 Lemans.
11-09-2012, 06:21 AM
#3
TECH Fanatic
If you have a truck 5.3 you can use the entire accessory setup by only changing the PS pulley. Do yourself a favor and buy the right pan, several options are available. Save the work and frustration. This swap can be a true bolt in.
11-09-2012, 08:18 AM
#4
I've seen people fit the motor with the F-body pan with no modifications, but the motor has to be set way back with very little firewall clearance.
You best oil pan options are the autokraft pan or a modified F body pan. Either of these will give you plenty of ground clearance.
The F body manifolds fit perfectly in my 64 swap.
The F body accessories are said to fit if the motor is set back far enough, but it's extremely tight. The truck accessories fit with little modifications as said above. I ended up buying the Holley accessory kit to re-position mine like the corvette setup.
You best oil pan options are the autokraft pan or a modified F body pan. Either of these will give you plenty of ground clearance.
The F body manifolds fit perfectly in my 64 swap.
The F body accessories are said to fit if the motor is set back far enough, but it's extremely tight. The truck accessories fit with little modifications as said above. I ended up buying the Holley accessory kit to re-position mine like the corvette setup.
11-09-2012, 11:52 AM
#5
as said you can use the F-body pan and F-body accessories but will have little passenger side head to firewall clearance ( I have about 3/4"). I dont see the issues with that. You have to set the engine far enough back to clear the alternator and steering gearbox. I still had to clearence my gearbox case slightly to clear the alternator pulley.
11-09-2012, 01:05 PM
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I have been working on installing a LS1 out of a 2003 Corvette and a 4L60E in my 1964 Chevelle Wagon and finally think I have Engine and trans in their final location. I bought the quick perfomance ac relocation brackets (look nice and moves AC to a good spot. I used the Fbody pan and didn't want to have the pan modified and lose oil capacity (I sold the vette pan and bought a new fbody pan for about the same price). So I cut the crossmember to fit the pan, which is not too difficult if you have access to a mig welder. Out of all the stock pans I think the fbody pans offers the most tie rod clearance, other aftermarket pans would probably work better, but they are really expensive. I used Hooker engine mounts, but if I were to do it again I might choose the dirty dingo mounts or make my own, just for the flexibility. The difficult part is: if you raise the engine to make the tie rods have clearance you have to do a lot of surgery on the trans tunnel, if you shift the motor forward to gain more clearance for the tunnel you end up with oil pan and tie rod clearance problems......after taking the motor in ans out 7 or 8 times and trans in and out maybe 10-15 times I finally got it all worked out. I really think the LS and 4l60E combo is kind of tricky in a 64 body. If it wasn't there would be a bunch of off the shelf Header, oil pan, motor mount sets available, but I dont see one from a single manufacturer, edelbrock had one and then stopped selling it. So anyone who says it is a slam dunk probably hasn't tried it themselves. Lots of people have made it work, but it takes time and effort to figure out what works best for you particular car, and your skill set. A few things I would be sure of: make sure your body mounts are good, use new motor mounts (energy suspension ones are good), be willing to modify....Crossmember and trans tunnel. Best advice I can think of. I used the new hooker cast iron manifold and they fit very tight to motor and work great in the 64. Still not done with my swap, but getting closer. Hope that some of this helps good luck, I think all the hassle will be worth it.
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11-11-2012, 08:56 PM
#12
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I used the Holley pan and late F body exhaust manifolds (2010). The manifolds are tight and need a little grinding on the flanges for clearance but seem to fit pretty well. GTO,C5/6 Corvette won't work. GM swap pan hangs really low-not anything I could live with on the street. The GTO a/c worked in stock location but is real tight for the a/c lines. The GTO alt/ps brackets won't fit as is but I managed to fab new brackets rotating them up to fit. I fabricated my own motor mounts and modified the trans mount but had to do quite a bit of pounding for the 4l60e to fit.
It's in a 1965 Vista Cruiser
It's in a 1965 Vista Cruiser
11-11-2012, 09:14 PM
#13
When I mocked up a 700r4 with a 5.3 engine on my chevelle I could swear it fit pretty good. On a chevelle, it depends on how far back your engine is and how high your engine sits. Put it as close to the crossmember as possible or notch it and sit the engine the lowest you can within reason of you're oil pan hanging.
02-06-2015, 12:14 PM
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Steering gearbox? I have been working on installing a LS1 out of a 2003 Corvette and a 4L60E in my 1964 Chevelle Wagon and finally think I have Engine and trans in their final location. I bought the quick perfomance ac relocation brackets (look nice and moves AC to a good spot. I used the Fbody pan and didn't want to have the pan modified and lose oil capacity (I sold the vette pan and bought a new fbody pan for about the same price). So I cut the crossmember to fit the pan, which is not too difficult if you have access to a mig welder. Out of all the stock pans I think the fbody pans offers the most tie rod clearance, other aftermarket pans would probably work better, but they are really expensive. I used Hooker engine mounts, but if I were to do it again I might choose the dirty dingo mounts or make my own, just for the flexibility. The difficult part is: if you raise the engine to make the tie rods have clearance you have to do a lot of surgery on the trans tunnel, if you shift the motor forward to gain more clearance for the tunnel you end up with oil pan and tie rod clearance problems......after taking the motor in ans out 7 or 8 times and trans in and out maybe 10-15 times I finally got it all worked out. I really think the LS and 4l60E combo is kind of tricky in a 64 body. If it wasn't there would be a bunch of off the shelf Header, oil pan, motor mount sets available, but I dont see one from a single manufacturer, edelbrock had one and then stopped selling it. So anyone who says it is a slam dunk probably hasn't tried it themselves. Lots of people have made it work, but it takes time and effort to figure out what works best for you particular car, and your skill set. A few things I would be sure of: make sure your body mounts are good, use new motor mounts (energy suspension ones are good), be willing to modify....Crossmember and trans tunnel. Best advice I can think of. I used the new hooker cast iron manifold and they fit very tight to motor and work great in the 64. Still not done with my swap, but getting closer. Hope that some of this helps good luck, I think all the hassle will be worth it.
02-15-2015, 10:50 PM
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I have been working on installing a LS1 out of a 2003 Corvette and a 4L60E in my 1964 Chevelle Wagon and finally think I have Engine and trans in their final location. I bought the quick perfomance ac relocation brackets (look nice and moves AC to a good spot. I used the Fbody pan and didn't want to have the pan modified and lose oil capacity (I sold the vette pan and bought a new fbody pan for about the same price). So I cut the crossmember to fit the pan, which is not too difficult if you have access to a mig welder. Out of all the stock pans I think the fbody pans offers the most tie rod clearance, other aftermarket pans would probably work better, but they are really expensive. I used Hooker engine mounts, but if I were to do it again I might choose the dirty dingo mounts or make my own, just for the flexibility. The difficult part is: if you raise the engine to make the tie rods have clearance you have to do a lot of surgery on the trans tunnel, if you shift the motor forward to gain more clearance for the tunnel you end up with oil pan and tie rod clearance problems......after taking the motor in ans out 7 or 8 times and trans in and out maybe 10-15 times I finally got it all worked out. I really think the LS and 4l60E combo is kind of tricky in a 64 body. If it wasn't there would be a bunch of off the shelf Header, oil pan, motor mount sets available, but I dont see one from a single manufacturer, edelbrock had one and then stopped selling it. So anyone who says it is a slam dunk probably hasn't tried it themselves. Lots of people have made it work, but it takes time and effort to figure out what works best for you particular car, and your skill set. A few things I would be sure of: make sure your body mounts are good, use new motor mounts (energy suspension ones are good), be willing to modify....Crossmember and trans tunnel. Best advice I can think of. I used the new hooker cast iron manifold and they fit very tight to motor and work great in the 64. Still not done with my swap, but getting closer. Hope that some of this helps good luck, I think all the hassle will be worth it.
02-16-2015, 07:37 AM
#18
On The Tree
Has any of you tried the Holley 302-2 pan in your 64? Pricey and hard to get it sounds like. Doing a swap also, 6.0 in a Malibu, some good info here, thanks for posting.
02-16-2015, 12:44 PM
#19
TECH Apprentice
I would sure look at the Holley 302-2 pan, I have a 67 A-body with a F-body pan modify to fit cross member. Inner tie rods rub the oil pan when steering is at max turn. The -2 pan has cut outs for the tie rods as well fitting the cross member. C5 Vet bracket/power steering/alternator works great. on the 66/67.
02-17-2015, 11:32 AM
#20
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I didn't have any issues with steering box clearance. I think the Vette brackets must be a lot tighter than some of the others. I moved AC on top with quick performance brackets. plenty of clearance at back of motor..1" or so. Trans clearance was the only issue after notching cross member. Still have not run car, but I am finally ready to get busy on it again and finish it up. Have the whole dash out right now. Ended up mounting computer behind gauge cluster, installed new Dakota digital VHX gauges. Hope to have it running soon?? Should be the coolest kid mover around.
64 9 Passenger wagon
64 9 Passenger wagon
