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Questions about front end work I am doing...

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Old 11-09-2012, 09:53 AM
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Default Questions about front end work I am doing...

So I needed new tires and decided it's a good time to get rims and tires. Well, the front end isn't quite right so I decided to go ahead and replace ball joints, tie rods, brakes and rotors. The avalanche is in full effect now and I bought spark plugs, wires and new hatch struts. I've even been reading the stereo threads and thinking about doing some updates there. Heck, I might even wash it!

Anyway, here's the questions:

(1) I found torque specs for the ball joints on the net. What I read was 90 lbs. for the top and 120 lbs. for the bottom. The bottom was fine but both the ball joints on the top stripped out the threads before I reached 90 ft/lbs. So what's the deal? Did I use the wrong torque spec or what?

(2) The calipers mount into that rectangular piece with the chrome clips. Well, one of the places where the caliper bolts on is sticking out too far to mount the caliper. Is there some trick to getting it to move back in because mine seems stuck? I haven't tried going neanderthal and beating it back into place mostly because I don't want to damage the nice paint I put on it.

Oh yeah, car is a 2000 T/A WS6.
Old 11-09-2012, 11:17 AM
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#1 you stripped the threads on the actual ball joint castle nut? you only have to tighten them down hand tight with a ratchet, and then just bump it over a little more to line up the slot for the cotter pin. They don't need to be cranked down all crazy.

#2 the caliper mount??? as in the 2 bolts that bolt to the spindle?? you say chrome clips, the only clips i can think of are the anti rattle clips that actually go in the caliper to hold the pads in place. you need pictures bro.
Old 11-09-2012, 11:55 AM
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1) What part stripped? The castle nut or the little nuts that hold the ball joint in place?

2) Those things that you are beating on are your slide pins. They should move freely. If they don't you'll have to take the bracket back off, extract that slide pins, clean it all up (might need new pins) including the inside bore, grease it all, and put it together. Use proper high temp caliper grease.
Old 11-09-2012, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Undertow74
#1 you stripped the threads on the actual ball joint castle nut? you only have to tighten them down hand tight with a ratchet, and then just bump it over a little more to line up the slot for the cotter pin. They don't need to be cranked down all crazy.

#2 the caliper mount??? as in the 2 bolts that bolt to the spindle?? you say chrome clips, the only clips i can think of are the anti rattle clips that actually go in the caliper to hold the pads in place. you need pictures bro.
Yes, I stripped the castle nuts. The threads look awful fine for 90 ft/lbs. - is that the right torque?

Yes, I was talking about the caliper mount and the anti-rattle clips. Can't get photos right now - I am headed out the door on a trip to sell a Ford.
Old 11-09-2012, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
1) What part stripped? The castle nut or the little nuts that hold the ball joint in place?

2) Those things that you are beating on are your slide pins. They should move freely. If they don't you'll have to take the bracket back off, extract that slide pins, clean it all up (might need new pins) including the inside bore, grease it all, and put it together. Use proper high temp caliper grease.
Yes, the castle nut.

Ok, I'll pull the slide pins out and grease them. I thought maybe there was trick to getting them to go in.
Old 11-09-2012, 12:23 PM
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Nope, no trick. They should move freely.

I'm not sure what the torque spec is, but I've always just tightened down the castle until it was tight, then either turned slightly tighter or backed off a tad to put the cotter pin in.



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