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need advice on brake fluid change

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Old 11-10-2012, 01:34 PM
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Default need advice on brake fluid change

Hello everyone, I just got my c6 z06 front brake kit in from kore3 this week. I want to do the whole swap myself, but have never changed out break fluid. Anyone recommend a certain type of fluid, or are they all about the same? Also, since this will be a one man job, anyone have any recommendations on brake bleeding kits? Thanks!
Old 11-11-2012, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RickSS
Hello everyone, I just got my c6 z06 front brake kit in from kore3 this week. I want to do the whole swap myself, but have never changed out break fluid. Anyone recommend a certain type of fluid, or are they all about the same? Also, since this will be a one man job, anyone have any recommendations on brake bleeding kits? Thanks!
You can buy a mitty vac from harbor freight to help you change the fluid quickly. It comes with sorts of fittings/lines. Go with any DOT4 fluid, ATE, Motul, etc.

When changing out the fluid make sure you don't get any air in the line, if you do keep bleeding until no more air comes out. When you pump your brakes and it's still spongy feeling, there is still air in the line.

Keep filling the brake fluid reservoir with fresh fluid and don't let it get empty.
Old 11-12-2012, 09:03 PM
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Motive Power Bleeder.

edit: model 0108 (late model US car) of this is about $55.

Last edited by joecar; 11-14-2012 at 10:35 AM.
Old 11-12-2012, 10:08 PM
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Thanks guys, I'll look into that.
Old 11-12-2012, 10:48 PM
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whatever you do...DONT USE DOT 5 BRAKE FLUID
Old 11-13-2012, 04:13 PM
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I would buy the store brand dot3 at the parts store unless you are going to track the car and know you will be cooking the brakes. otherwise it's pointless especially if you are going to maintain the brake system and flush the fluid every couple years.
when you pull the old brakes off, put a little buna plastic cap over the line to prevent brake fluid from dripping out, you don't want the master res. draining down to get air in the system otherwise you will definitely need a power bleeder and possibly a scan tool to bleed the abs modulator. so long as you don't lose fluid in the upper part of the system, swapping out the hardware at the wheels is easy and it's fairly easy to bleed. I got earl's solo-bleeds for my oem calipers, I had them off over the whole winter to polish them and put on stainless lines. bleeding was a piece of cake using the solobleeds, for the $30 or whatever for all four it was worth it, and cheaper then buying a power bleeder.
Old 11-13-2012, 04:18 PM
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ATE Blue. Valvoline offers a synthetic in part stores as well, the dry boiling I think is 540F.

I use speed bleeders for one man bleeding.
Old 11-13-2012, 10:06 PM
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This being my first time, any recommended websites or books that I can read up on so as not to cause more problems than necessary? I have the Haynes manual already for some reference.
Old 11-14-2012, 09:48 AM
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It's really basic - I would bet Youtube would have something. My two tips - Don't strip the bleeder screw, and don't let the resorvoir go dry while bleeding.

They make specific wrenches for such jobs in order to prevent stripping the bleeder screws...it's soft metal.
Old 11-14-2012, 10:26 AM
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( do not use an open end wrench on the bleeder screws )
Old 11-15-2012, 12:04 AM
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Cool, thanks guys!
Old 11-15-2012, 01:06 PM
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ATE if you track the car...regular DOT3 if you don't, you could just change it more often given that you're looking at speed bleeders...



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