Chrishbsbll

iTrader: (2)

I have a few questions as I have never actually pulled a head on a car before. When pulling the head off coolant went down in the cylinders. I wanted to make sure this is normal. We drained as much as possible before we pulled the head.

Also, I have a metal head gasket. Can this gasket be reused when putting the head back on? (cleaned up of course)

What are the torque specs on the head bolts? And is there anything that I need to make sure we do (like rtv any bolts) when we put the head back on.

The engine is a 408 lq9 with PRC stage 3 ls6 heads and will be on a 300 shot of nitrous.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Don't ever re-use head gaskets...

Clean as much coolant up as possible and change the oil.

Be sure to get it ALL coolant out of the bolt holes.

Stock torque specs here: www.ls1howto.com

Chrishbsbll

iTrader: (2)

will it be unsafe to have a new headgasket on one side and an older one on the other side? especially on a big shot?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

No,your engine will not know the difference. But IF I WERE YOU...I would pull both heads and re-install with ARP studs.

Why are you pulling the head?

Chrishbsbll

iTrader: (2)

It has arp head bolts already. I and pulling the head because a valve cover bolt snapped flush in the head, and of course it was the back one that couldnt be seen and hard to even get to.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Ahh...I see...Check ARPs website for the proper Torque Spec

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Get the ARP lube for re-installation. I would also call them for the latest torque value using their new lube. The new lube hits the proper preload much better than the older lube they had.

Pull all the coolant from the cylinders as soon as possible and coat the cylinders with oil. Where I live if you don't do that the cylinder walls are rusted the next morning. As mentioned previously, the bolt holes must be free of coolant. You need to verify with your eye, don't assume anything here as a mistake can cost you the block. Use a flashlight and mirror or a borescope if you have access to one.

Block and head should be very clean, make sure you get all the gasket material off. Even the metal gaskets will leave a bit of rubber. Also, don't get anything in the lifter bores or in the coolant passages in the block as this can cause major problems later.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

Good idea to change your oil again after you let the car warm up. I had so much residual coolant in there it came out almost white. I used a straw taped to my shop vac to get all the coolant out of the head bolt holes. Then clean out the hole with an old bolt.

DaddySS

For future reference, either pull the block pugs or use a wet vac in the water pump ports to draw out the coolant - saves a lot of time and hassle with coolant in the cylinders.

if you're using standard GM head gaskets you'll be fine, if you're using cometic or another gasket, be sure to use the same thickness gasket as the other side.

01snake

Gonna be pulling a head for the first time also did it matter what sequence you took the head bolts out? I don't want to warp anything

Also if I get coolant in the cylinders and I won't be starting it for a while I could spray fogging oil will that be good enough? Maybe turn the motor over with it?

My motor is on a engine stang would it be smart to flip it upside down and pull the head off?


Sorry not trying to hijack the thread just don't want to make a duplicate post


Thanks

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

I wouldn't try and pull heads with the engine upside down. You're just asking for a head smashing your foot. Be safe and keep it upright. If you get a little coolant into the cylinder no big deal. If you have good ring seal it may sit on top of the piston long enough to soak it up. Follow up with a little oil. If the engine is going to sit, why not leave it buttoned up?