M1SERY

can i do a head swap with the engine in the car or do i need to drop it ????

garygnu

you can do it in the car.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

You can do it in the car but have fun torquing the rear passenger side head bolts, especially if using gm bolts...

BKsNHRA

iTrader: (4)

I did mine in the car useing head studs. Go to LS1howto.com for a full write up on this.He tell you how to do it give pointers and has pics.

GMtechmatt

you can do it in car

td1168

iTrader: (2)

Yes you can do it in the car. The real question is which way is easier. If you have the means to pick the car front end up about 3 to 4 feet in the air then it becomes a real option to drop the motor out and do it. Here's the thing. If you like crawling all over the fenders and front end of the car and cussing trying to get to the tight places where different fasteners and components need removed then do it in the car. If you like to work comfortably with everything right there in front of you then drop the engine. It takes about 2 hours to unhook everything and pick the car up off the k-member. There are some great write ups for doing this. I always compare this to doing a ring and pinion swap. You can do it under the car but when you are frustrated and pissed trying to do the job, you get to a point where things may not be exactly right but you're so frustrated that they're good enough in your mind. I'm sure people will jump on my opinion but in the end you'll do a better job without crawling all over your nice f-body.lol. I just dropped mine out. It's a breeze if you have the means to lift the car. I have a small gantry crane from northern equipment with an electric chain hoist.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The opinion it is easier to take things apart in big pieces to work on them is something that comes with age and experience. I think you will find the opinions split along those lines.

Trying to work in cramped quarters not only leads to frustration but it is easier to round off fasteners, slip and split knuckles or break other components, not actually get something tight etc.

BKsNHRA

iTrader: (4)

Its much easier to do out of the car IF you have everything needed to get the car high enough to get it out. If your doing this in your drive way with a regular floor jack and basic hand tools just leave it in the car and do it. I have done it in car and the hardest part about it was cleaning the stock head gasket off the block..That took the most time . My backs starting to hurt just thinking about it again LOL

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

^^^good call...some ibuprofen 800mg are def a req'd part they don't list on ls1howto lol

Sales1@Texas-speed

It can be done with the engine still in the car.

M1SERY

ok thanks, sense i got everyone here, well i'm thinking of doing the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads
, or my other option was to take my 241 and send them off and have them ported and milled , which would u think

pretty sure im going with the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads

how much of a gain will the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads get, do u have some # with this type of head up grade

how much dose it raise comp. raitio and what lenght of push rod and the thickness of the head gasket u used,

i'm just trying to get my head around it , thaks for the input

td1168

iTrader: (2)

I can't give you numbers yet. I am in the process of putting my engine back together with the stuff listed in my sig. I went with the mahle powerpak 4cc valve relief pistons so I could pretty much run any aftermarket head with the MS4 cam. I did purchase the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3 heads. They have a 59cc combustion chamber which will put me between 10.5 and 10.75:1 CR. I did have a stock ls1 bottom end with stock 241's and the bolt-on's listed in my sig. I put down 380 at the wheels with an m6 and 3.90 gear in the rear. Also I had a cylinder down a little when we put it on the dyno. I should be around 420-450 rwhp when it's done.