ROUDA

iTrader: (1)

I have narrowed it down to these two kits what one is better let me know

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROCARE-SUPE...c9a22e06#rpdId

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4L60E-TRANSM...bcd60c&vxp=mtr

ROUDA

iTrader: (1)

fyi the car is just a bolt ons nothing crazy

mrvedit

Your first one seems to be the same as this one:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/trutechtrans...&_trksid=p3686

I have been very satisfied with the service and easy phone access provided by TruTechtrans. I have also been very happy with the GPZ100 frictions which are now Raybestos top-of-the-line and a heavier duty replacement to the Z-pak.

However, if your trans has never been overhauled, you really should be replacing the bushings and updating the hard parts. Consider this $280 kit instead:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/trutechtrans...&_trksid=p3686

Better yet, call TruTechTrans (I think the owner is Jeff) and ask for an upgrade to the 4L65E 7-friction set using GPZ105. There really is no excuse for using 6 frictions; that I why I always recommend people buy a 4L65E rebuild kit as that is the only difference. Its like an extra $8.

warriorcustoms

iTrader: (10)

If your gonna Ebay it Do somethin like that Trutech Level 3 Master builder kit for 785 Upgrade the specs to 4L65E specs or atleast everything but maybe the 5 pinion planetaries BUT if your gonna do more than bolt ons later do it all!!! Im a firm believer in overkill

mrvedit

The Trutech Level 3 Master is certainly a nice kit, but probably overkill for a stock car.
Also Blue frictions add $100 and definitely seem like overkill.
Another trans builder and I are discussing whether Blue frictions are race-only or are suitable for extended street use with thousands of up and down shifts. He even emailed Raybestos and didn't get a straight answer whether they are for street use.

Trutech also sells the rear 5-pinion planetary for a very high price, more than double what is on Amazon, also for a true ACDelco part.
It all depends upon the budget.
Hey, just my opinions.

PBA

The Blue Plate Specials have never worked well on the street. They are good for strip only, but they are 4 -5 times the cost of Borg Warner Hi-Energy clutches, and I have found that the BPS's last no longer than the BW Hi-E's.

mrvedit

PBA, I always trust your insight and experience. Could you please elaborate as I am considering them in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-4-clutch.html

When you say "the BPS last no longer than the BW Hi-Es" do you mean on the track or on the street? If on the track, then why would anyone use them and why would you say "good for strip only". If on the street, do they have any advantages. If they last as long as the street and have even a small advantage, I would consider them.

There is a lot of rumor, misinformation and conjecture about the Blue Frictions and I suspect you have first-hand experience with them.
Thank you.

Ted.

ROUDA

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the imput

PBA

The Borg Warner Hi-Energy clutches last as long as the Second Generation Blue Plate Specials on the strip. On the street however the BPS's did not hold up very well. They would start to burn (glaze). When I talked to Raybestos about this, and would you believe.... Raybestos called it "power banding". Thats a laugh.... and not to be concerned??? I have hundreds of customers using the BW Hi-E's, in mostly eight and nine clutch setups, and a few ten clutch applications working out very successfully.

mrvedit

Thanks; I always appreciate your input and insight. I've spoken to three other builders that have successfully had many customers use the Blues on the street; their consensus is that the Blues need .007 clearance per friction, e.g. .060 - .065 for 9 frictions; much more than the BW Hi-Energy.

I apologize if I am hijacking this tread, as this is a bit off-topic.

ROUDA

iTrader: (1)

I went with hi energy

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

sub for future use

mrvedit

Thanks for finding all the rebuilt kit threads, but you can subscribe, without posting, by selecting "Thread tools" near the top right of the thread.