greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I've decided on the nitrous outlet kit for the fbody.

My main concern is the tune, and my question for you guys is..

how do you guys pull timing on the fly without having a Nitrous tune?

Imo, I rather be at my 26* across the board than 18* all the time. And just be able to swap between the two as I wish..

I know I've seen setups that pull timing upon activation, I just can't remember the names so I'm just going to ask you guys.

The only one I know of so far is the resistor mod, but I would like to see what else is out there.

Pete91

iTrader: (4)

Give lingenfelter a call or you can talk to the nitrous outlet boys they will hook you up.

Neal@NitrousOutlet

With what you are looking to do, your best bet is the Lingenfelter LNC2000. We highly recommend them and the LNC is the only timing puller we will sale. You can have it hooked up to pull timing whenever you activate the nitrous system

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

simple relay and resistor works great....

basically you put a relay in line with the IAT, and when you flip a switch, it changes to a fixed value resistor that equals a high temperature, which then you set in your tune to pull the timing you want..

you can also use the IAT PE adder table to correct for fueling as well on a Dry shot.



theres a good thread on here somewhere with a diagram and some values for resistors to use








or... you could go all out and use a complete system to do the nitrous control...
I use the Holley EFI Dominator to do my Nitrous control....and complete engine control
Timing(per cylinder if needed), safety shutoff parameters, rpm and TPS window settings, multiple stages, progressive or straight, dry or wet, delays to compensate for time between solenoid opening and nitrous getting to the engine(in my case, 40ms takes care of the rich spike)

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

MSD also has a timing box that can be wired to only pull timing upon activation of the nitrous arming switch, or even have it wired up to where it does not pull timing until the actual nitrous and fuel solenoids click on allowing nitrous and fuel to enter into the engine.

That cam is going to LOVE the nitrous. With it's slightly extended exhaust duration and 113LSA and you already know how flat the torque curve is on motor and how flat the horsepower is from 6000-6500....the nitrous is going to blow that torque curve up!!!

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

You're on hptuners forum right? I got a question, if I go this route, is it possible to hook up a window switch to the relay also? Im running out of switch panel area lol (tcs, line lock, tow haul drop gear mod) I plan on putting more switches in the ashtray but it looks like a tight fit in there so im just wondering.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

im excited man, I'm trying to catch up to my buddy with a mid 10 second 4 door charger.

red fury

iTrader: (1)

My vote if you are still running the Maf sensor is to go with a dry kit. Then the tune is great n/a and when you spray. I am biased though LOL. I made 565/585 SAE with a 125 hit for years like that on the stock bottom end

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

my Vote is NOT to do what he ^^^ says


sure.. people do it... and sure.. some people get away with it...
it does not guarantee it will work...
and honestly... you are asking for trouble...

do it right, or dont do it at all...



and yes... I'm on HP Tuners, and several other forums as well....

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

I was planning on going with a wet shot anyway, regardless of what anyone local told me lol. But yeah I'll look for that write up and try it out, I have hp tuner pro so it won't be too hard

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

If you need any help tuning the nitrous feel free to ask me also, I'm more than willing to help a customer.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, Shows what kind of shop and good work you guys run!

Unfortunately I just got back from a little meet here in houston and I had to limp the car home... BAD vibration in lockup, LOUD tapping sound, I got good oil pressure, shakes at low rpms (oil psi still good) I'm suspecting a flexplate..

Once again, I have to delay my rear end and nitrous order.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Thanks bro!

Does it rattle when you shut it off? I bet you lost a converter bolt or they loosened up on you.

Do you use thread locker?

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

No it sure don't and I like to use red locktite on everything I own LOL, it's a stock flexplate and my old 5.3 swapped truck managed to break a stocker too.. happened right after I downshifted to first for a 30 roll that went all the way to 6800 rpm. I guess the flexplate took a dump. I'm really hoping it did.

dekan513

iTrader: (2)

i had the same problem , got a lnc-2000 and its just badass, plus it has a 2 step . very easy to use.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

How does the cam pull past 6500? From the dyno graphs and installs on that cam we've done in 6 liters 6800 seems to be the perfect sweet spot for a shift point.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

shifting at 6800 puts it back in the meat of the powerband when the RPMS drop with each shift, I was supposed to test this out tonight at the test and tune but you know, Flywheel messed up

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I think it will put you solidly over 94mph and very close to 95 shifting it like that.

With a 1.50 60' you're in the 7.10-7.20's which is very good for a street driven full weight car! On nitrous I would think you'll solidly be in the 6's!

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

I sure hope so lol

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

I always pull the timing out of the IAT table on street cars. If you wana run nitrous just unplug the IAT for the runs. It seems to work most of the time. I have seen it NOT pull the timing before though. Or get HP tuners and have 2 tunes.