FactoryFreak99

I sold my 99Z M6 about a year ago. I loved this car, I almost cried when I saw it like this. It got destroyed by the new owner... I bought it back for a $1000. I sold the car originally with these bolt ons...

Ported FAST Intake 90mm, FAST TB 92mm, new plugs and wires, SLP lid, Pacesetter LT's no cats, TSP True Dual w/ Mufflex race mufflers, new TPS, emission delete, new o2 sensors and extensions, new fuel filter. 98,000 miles. STOCK TUNE!!! I repeat no tune... The car ran fine though, needed a tune obviously, but I went FRM, and sold it. Never had a problem like this when I had it.

Okay, well now that I have it back... It will not run right. I drove it 200 miles like this so hopefully that's a good sign. Here's what it's doing... As soon as I turn the key it revs to about 2500rpm. After 1 second (literally) with no driver input, the engine loses all power and shuts off. Like the ignition/fuel just turned off, and dies. However, I can keep it running with a little foot feed action. It misses terribly when I'm keeping it running like this though. It misses A LOT... The rpm's jump around too while I keep it going, it might stay at 1800rpm for 2 seconds then die, or rev to 4000rpm, then die. Without me touching the gas, its dies instantly. With a little courage I drove it like this. However, above about 2000rpm with a load, the car "runs" decent. Some sputter around 2000rpm, but no missing. WOT, it runs decent too, pulls okay still. Confusing already for me... While driving fine on the interstate, if at any time I push the clutch in, or put in neutral without hitting the gas, it will die, immediately. So while driving 60mph in 5th gear, running decently with cruise, push in the clutch or put it in neutral, the car dies withing 2 seconds, literally. Its ran like this for about a month he said. One day he just got in it and it started doing this. He said it sounded like a cammed idle for two days, then this, no idle ****. Good news, no knocking, and not much smoke that I can see really. It always does this, never changes. Not when it's warm out, cold out, warmed up car, cold start etc...

So after digging a little... The o2 extensions are shredded. Which shouldn't make it die immediately. I unpluggged the MAF and it idles at about 3000rpm, with no missing. Cleaned the MAF, no help. Unplugged all the sensors that didn't change anything. Tried to check for vacuum leaks, but it wont idle, and it's very, very loud. I don't see any fuel leaks. Getting a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow, let you know what that is. I can hear the fuel pump prime.

I don't know where to start. It still has no tune, and the o2 sensors are not hooked up/ working. The MAF is stock. Fuel Pump is stock, 100,000 miles now. I don't understand why it will run WOT, but not even idle for 3 seconds. I don't know what to look for for codes, cause its going to throw a bunch already like this.

Please, someone help me. I sold this car after a bad breakup, regretted it for a year. Now I got over the b**** and bought it back. I can't not love this car. Any wisdom will help.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yeah, pull the dang codes. Help us help you. Fix the O2 stuff and give everything a once over and report back.

crcdude

Definatly pull codes, but almost sounds like IAC stuck or bound up. or may TPS sensor bad.

Interested in what you find, good luck

FactoryFreak99

I took the IAC off and cleaned it. Started it with it unplugged. No change, still could be bad though. I replaced the TPS with a new one, the wires seemed good, no change.

KRAZY K 2000 TA

iTrader: (5)

fix O2s first.Check fuel pressure also

FactoryFreak99

Alright guys little update. Waiting for the o2 sensors to come in a friend stopped by a scanner. O2 sensors was one code, egr another, and MAP sensor was the other code. We also noticed that timing was jumping from 14 to 39 degrees while I was running it. Also had a misfire on cylinder 5. Friend drives 02SS, so I was able to eliminate MAF. IAC was dirty, still moved. Removed it, plugged it, unplugged it, ran the same every time. Backfires and smokes now, smell really rich.

The timing degrees seemed a bit extreme. Every time I blipped throttle to keep the car running it spiked over 35 degrees but yet fell to 14 degrees at points. Crank sensor..?

No clue on how a car acts with a bad map sensor...

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

MAP is a major component in fueling.

FactoryFreak99

Where is it located? Would it cause something this catastrophic?

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

map is located on the back of the intake. Fueling is based from the map. change it out and report back

97camaroguy

iTrader: (5)

have fun digging in there to get it lol

FactoryFreak99

Any tips on how to get at that thing? Usual things to check for?

ringram

It might be disconnected or vacuum pipes at the rear disconnected.. check there, its hard work and you will cry, use a torch and mirror etc.

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

On an f body I would just slide the whole intake forward. On the gto you can just pull it right out

FactoryFreak99

OK, I'm gonna sound pretty amateur right now. I'm pretty sure I pulled the MAP Sensor in about 25 seconds, I'm skinny lol... It only has 1 wiring harness and nowhere for vacuum lines to plug in right? Just pulls out of the intake and has little orange seals on the nipple where it pushes in? If that was it, which I'm 99.9% sure it was, it seemed a little too easy. It might not have been sealing great... Hopefully the new one I'm getting is a little tighter in my intake. Also it didn't feel like any vacuum lines were unplugged. I really hope they're not cause I do not wanna pull that intake off after all the injector sealing problems I had. Have you guys heard any problem with FAST Intakes fitting like poop, or leaking air? Mine has been ported...

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Did you use the correct valley cover bolts when you installed the fast? You can't use stock ones. They hold the intake up too high and it won't seal, or you'll crack it.

Athlon2k2

iTrader: (2)

It almost sounds like you pulled the IAC. It is sort of shaped like an arrow. It would be round and came out of the side of the throttle body.

FactoryFreak99

Well, Im pretty sure replaced all the intake bolts with the ones that came in the kit I ordered from FAST. The intake didnt fit that great to begin with, but it ran for months perfectly. So I doubt I did that.

I already have the IAC out of the TB. (See above) I'm not that bad bro, I've had the motor out of this car 3 times lol. The IAC doesnt have orange seals on the nipple lol.

Athlon2k2

iTrader: (2)

Lol. Just making sure. Over looked the IAC part. You said the o2 extension was shredded. How does the rest of the harness look? Today I found mine got brittle and fell apart by being to close to the header. Wires were shorting out.

Also did you get a chance to check your fuel pressure?

FactoryFreak99

Haha, it's cool man... Yeah, the o2 extensions fell off, soo the male side of the o2 sensor, that's connected to the sensor just broke off. Only exposed wires. That wouldn't make it run this terribly though. Fingers crossed on this MAP Sensor being the case. Fast intakes don't have the clip to hold it into the intake I guess so my seals went bad and maybe the sensor too. Like I said fingers crossed, cause I'm running out of ideas. I haven't checked my fuel pressure yet... Apparently a fuel pressure gauge is extinct in this town. I ruled that out cause I heard these cars wont even start without adequate fuel pressure. I'm still trying to place one, so I can rule it out.... Nervously.

Athlon2k2

iTrader: (2)

I would definitely hook up the o2 just to be sure.

As far as fuel pressure. I once had a missing o-ring on my fuel pressure regulator. Caused the car not to even idle. But it would start. Pressure never got above 20.