Valves?
#1
Staging Lane
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Valves?
Got the car all back together after having it torn apart to replace my head gaskets. Went to turn it on and there was a lot of resistance and it was back firing. It would start, idle for a second, and shut off abruptly.
When we adjusted the valves we went from left to right on the drivers side. When the valve on the right side of the cylinder was all the way up we would adjust the valve on the left, and so on. After reading this seems horribly wrong.
I'm interested in what you guys think. I'm gonna take my valve covers off in the morning and see if I've bent my pushrods.
Is there a reliable way to adjust the valves without pulling the intake?
When we adjusted the valves we went from left to right on the drivers side. When the valve on the right side of the cylinder was all the way up we would adjust the valve on the left, and so on. After reading this seems horribly wrong.
I'm interested in what you guys think. I'm gonna take my valve covers off in the morning and see if I've bent my pushrods.
Is there a reliable way to adjust the valves without pulling the intake?
#3
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When adjusting valves you want to make sure the valve you are adjusting is at the base circle of the cam. There are a couple of sure fire methods to ensure this. Did you do any research beforehand? You should also double check that all of your plug wires are routed to the correct cylinders.
#4
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very easy way to adjust valves.
Pick a cylinder. turn the engine over till the Exhaust valve starts to open. At this point adjust the Intake Valve. Now turn the engine until the intake valve is closing and almost closed. At this point adjust the Exhaust valve.
Repeat for every cylinder
Pick a cylinder. turn the engine over till the Exhaust valve starts to open. At this point adjust the Intake Valve. Now turn the engine until the intake valve is closing and almost closed. At this point adjust the Exhaust valve.
Repeat for every cylinder
#5
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When adjusting valves you want to make sure the valve you are adjusting is at the base circle of the cam. There are a couple of sure fire methods to ensure this. Did you do any research beforehand? You should also double check that all of your plug wires are routed to the correct cylinders.
I get confused on when the vavle is open or closed.
Open when the spring is compressed?
#7
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Just got back in from doing it shbox's cylinder by cylinder method. I spun the car over without the spark plugs on and it cranks normal. Hopefully when I put it all back together in the morning it'll fire up.
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#8
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You really should have pulled all the pushrods and rolled them on a piece of glass to see if they were straight.
Then with all the rockers off you could try and put some sort of straight edge across the valve tips to see if any hung low, low would indicate a valve not closing as far as the others which would be a reasonably good indication of it being bent.
Then with all the rockers off you could try and put some sort of straight edge across the valve tips to see if any hung low, low would indicate a valve not closing as far as the others which would be a reasonably good indication of it being bent.
#9
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Yes. The rocker is pushing the valve open. Whatever you do, do not ever use the crank damper/pulley as a TDC reference. Because it is not keyed or because if it were ever taken off it may have not been put back in the exact position. One of the best ways to find TDC for #1 is to take the #1 plug out, turn the crank by hand and on the compression stroke, use a McD's type straw to put into the cylinder. Turn crank until you feel the most resistance while tugging on the straw. You are then at TDC and now you can use the crank damper/pulley as a reference.
#10
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Tried to start it this morning and got the same problem.
Looked all around and noticed the opti was sitting sort of crooked and wasn't completely flush with the block. Pulled it and replaced it.
Now I can't get the new one to slide in to place. I've tried everything but forcing it on, which I don't want to do. Gave up for tonight.
Looked all around and noticed the opti was sitting sort of crooked and wasn't completely flush with the block. Pulled it and replaced it.
Now I can't get the new one to slide in to place. I've tried everything but forcing it on, which I don't want to do. Gave up for tonight.
#12
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It should easily slide in. With the engine in the car it can be tedious at times to get aligned and go in. You do know there's only one slot it goes in? It's the rectangular one as what's displayed on shoebox's page. Again, please make sure to double/triple/nanocheck the plug wire routings to make sure they are on the correct cylinders.
#13
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It should easily slide in. With the engine in the car it can be tedious at times to get aligned and go in. You do know there's only one slot it goes in? It's the rectangular one as what's displayed on shoebox's page. Again, please make sure to double/triple/nanocheck the plug wire routings to make sure they are on the correct cylinders.
#16
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Got the new opti in, got everything somewhat buttoned up and tried to start the car.
Ran first time. Definitely happy. Sounds good. Just gotta get this bundle of wires off of my headers on the passenger side. (The ones that go to the starter and such)
There was a bit of smoke coming from both heads. I guess it's just the coating they put on it burning off. Or the loads of stuff that's been put on them. Spilled coolant, etc.
Ran first time. Definitely happy. Sounds good. Just gotta get this bundle of wires off of my headers on the passenger side. (The ones that go to the starter and such)
There was a bit of smoke coming from both heads. I guess it's just the coating they put on it burning off. Or the loads of stuff that's been put on them. Spilled coolant, etc.
#17