1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

in the midst of acquiring parts for my lq4/t56 swap ive acquired an extra wiring harness and before i pay somebody to cut down my harness i figured id try to do it myself first since i have a spare, now i have a few questions, this harness (from an lm7 5.3) is essentially the same exact thing as my other harness (from an lq4 6.0) right? they both have the red/blue ecu connections

now ive done some searching and found that these connections are the ones i have to get rid of for the harness to be a standalone piece:

Blue connector:

Wire numbers and colors: 23 gray, 25 tan, 28 tan\white, 32 gray, 41 black, 45 gray, 55 brown, 65 purple, 68 purple\white, 70 brown, 74 yellow, 79 white.


Red Connector:

Wire number and colors: 4 pink\black, 7 red, 13 white, 14 red\black, 18 dark green\white, 30 dark blue, 34 dark green \white, 36 brown, 37 dark green, 41 gray, 43 dark green white, 44 light green, 45 white, 53 gray\black, 54 purple, 64 dark green.

so what im asking is, as long as those wires are cut out (ill take them out of the ecu connectors, but just in theory) the harness will be a standalone harness, correct? if so this actually seems pretty easy.

also, if somebody could post up a diagram of how the red/blue ecu connections are numbered would be great because i cant seem to find one atm

thanks for any help you can offer

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Look where the wires go into the red and blue connectors and you'll see the pin numbers. Sometimes the connectors are a little corroded but you can clean that off to make the numbers easy to see.

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

You still have to separate the ignition circuits out and splice them together. Dont do like some people say and just splice all of them together. 4 fuses is not enough to proplerly run an engine.

ChevyMan1989

its not quite that easy as just removing wires. relays and fuses have to be wired in after the wires you want removed are out. i'm in the middle of the same conversion on an lq4 for my chevelle. there are a couple youtube videos that go through the stand alone conversion pretty much step by step that will at least give you some sort of idea what does into the whole process. also def look on lt1swap.com. they have pin outs on just about every ls style wiring harness gm has made including instructions on which wires you can remove, which wires can be used to power other accesories, and easier ways of rewiring for a clean end result. also there are alot of guys on here that have already done this swap that have endless information on whatever you want to do!

check out my build if you want. im to the point where i have the harness back in the engine bay, rerouted the way i want, and am starting to wire up the fuse block and relays and have pictures of everything since i started

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-build-2.html

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

okay so after i remove all the wires listed in the OP are these the ones i have to run to a fuse block?

Fusing for pink wires as follows:

PCM fuse - 15 amp
Inj bank 1 - 15 amp
Inj bank 2 - 15 amp
Eng Sens fuse to both O2 sensors - 20amp
Trans control solenoid, on 13 pin connector - 15 amp


Fusing for Orange wire:

PCM to battery fuse - 10 amp
Fuel Pump thru fuel pump relay - 20 amp

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

I am just lurking/studying for an eventual swap in one of my old cars and noticed your from Maine also... its a big state but where are you out of ?

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Pretty close, might want to add some power to the coils too.

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

milford, about 12 miles from bangor

are you the guy with the teal 1sz that wanted to trade for the motor out of my 71 monte and cash???

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

how would i do that? just run the wire for the coils to a key on 12v source? could i wire them into the factory fuse block in the car??

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

small world lol we are 2 hours apart , Ill be watching with interest

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

You tie them in with the injectors. So bank 1 injectors and coils and bank 2 injectors and coils, then fuse each of them with a 15amp.

1988montecarloss

iTrader: (6)

ill probably just have you modify mine when i have the money but ill try it out first, what do you recommend me to buy for tools and materials and such to do this with? i have nothing at all for working on wiring haha

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

To really purchase a quality crimper for what you are going to want to do will cost $100+. There are places where you can purchase cheaper ones, just remember to also solder the crimp.

I do offer Diy kits that come with the necissary wiring components you need to modify your own harness. All you would need at that point is a soldering iron or torch and some solder with some heat shrink.

Just depends on what you want as far as fusing goes and what accessories you are going to want to run.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

If it's a factory Harness the Coils are tied into the Injectors.

darren roar

iTrader: (1)

Don't u have to add wires for a VSS

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

If it's a factory 4L60E Harness and you want to run a 4L80E, yes.

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

On a truck harness the coils and injectors arent tied together. Actually the injectors all have separate wires. Just two injectors are terminated at the same terminal.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Ah ok..I've been using Fbody Harnesses..

ChevyMan1989

my lq4/ 4l80e harness came with vss wires in it. it actually plugged right into my t56 vss.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

FWIW....I bet you could sell both of those harness and make enough $$ to pay for a PSI harness. Ready to go, no guess work, and you don't have to worry about mistakes splicing wires together. I feel it was money well spent...and Jon at PSI has excellent customer service.