Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

I have searched and have not really seen any alignment specifications that people are using for autox/road race setups for 4th gen f bodies. I use hunter engineering software. The purpose for the car is autocross/road racing. I have strano springs, 295/40/17 and 315/35/17 kumho v710s, and rear lca relocation brackets.

I dont have the sheet on me but the specs were around

LF and RF Camber: -2.5 degrees
Toe was slightly out
Caster: 4.5 degress

Mods this winter are front adj boxed lcas, road race k member, kyb adj shocks and struts, hollow sway bars, strut tower brace, on car adj panhard bar, on car adj rear lcas, subframe connectors, adj torque arm, bolt in 6 point roll bar.

Any road race/autocrossers out there care to share some specs or have any suggestions? What about rear specs? Non adj besides thrust angle?

STFU racing

iTrader: (13)

I autocross and I plan to run around -1.5 camber, 5ish caster and 1/32nd toe out.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

www.frrax.com

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

Will this car be street driven at all?

Also, V710s will work great for autocross, but you better look for another tire selection for road racing - such as the R6 for longevity.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Keep in mind there is a point of diminishing returns on braking the further you go in on camber.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

Yeah it gets driven on nice days in the summer but the only concern is for benefits on the track/autocross.

Does anyone have good hard data on how much camber is too much?

Whos upgraded their rear brakes on their f body? Im not too concerned and didnt think there would be much benefit but I am contemplating. Ill be going with the ctsv/brembo 4 piston calipers for the front. Any suggestions to tweak this setup are welcome but am mostly concerned of what peoples alignment specs are for strictly autocross/track cars with no concern for how it rides on the street.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

Ive seen a lot of people running -1.5 degrees of camber, but are these hardcore track setups or street cars that see a few track days?

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the suggestion but that site doesnt get too much traffic an i couldnt find anything pertaining to alignment specs.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Everything you ever needed to know on how to turn and stop a 4th Gen fbody is on that site. Its already been done.

Guess the old saying is true.....you can lead a horse to water......

There is a sticky in the suspension section ......look.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Join FRRAX you need to anyway.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

I didnt know you had to join the forum to see everything, because if youre not a member there is no suspension section listed. Someone that just looks at the site doesnt know you have to join to see everything.

So im waiting for my account to be validated. Until then, have any else to contribute? Whats your setup?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

-1.2 ish on camber, zero toe ish, caster unknown......caster is unknown prolly around 4.

I have been told the max neg camber on these cars is about 1.4 ish without different upper control arms and or slotted lowers.

Keep in mind there is a point of diminishing returns on negative camber...grip vs braking.

On the street past about -1.5 camber you could see inner tire wear if you dont drive the car hard on the street.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

I have about -2.5 camber on one side and -2.25 on the other with stock k member and control arms, but its not common of course. Well thanks anyway

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

You sure you have stock upper arms??

Frrax approve you yet? Tons of info over there.

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

I run -2.5 on both sides, I have a stock Kmember, stock a arms and the uppers have Strano offset bushings in them to give me that extra -1deg. I'm lowered as well. I have inner tire wear on the street but I'm running a square setup so I can rotate tires. I'm also running 0 toe. Caster is unknown. The car is a little darty on the street when I'm on uneven pavement, that could be a bumpsteer issue caused by lowering it. On the track, it's on rails and I've seen very little braking issues except for "Ice Mode" ABS problems on the Auto X circuit.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

No they havent. And its an 98-02 k member needed for the ls swap forgot to mention. We were surprised to see that much because my brother could only get that much after slotting his (he has an 02 z). If i already have that much camber i guess the only benefit of adding boxed lower control arms would be the adjustability, strength, and -3lbs. Im not sure if that justifies the $400 price tag, unless someone knows of a benefit that i dont.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

Mine is pretty darty on the road as well, always following the crown of the road but thats okay with me

jrwilliams95z28

mine darty on the roads too, i think its the big 275 tires. I was told my stock alignment cant go farther than -1.0*. so thats where it is.

camarokid91

I second this. Join up use the search tool. Also do not buy KYB like you planned get Koni or Billstiens. Your car is probably super twitchy from too much toe out. I have good amount of toe out but my car drives normal for the most part..............

Race Tires
Kuhmo V710 315/35/17 on all 4 corners or Hooiser A6 315/35/17

Street/Rain/Daily Tires
Kuhmo SPT 285/40/17


Alignment
Specs
-2.3 Camber
1/16 Toe out
5.5 Caster

brigade24

i run the SA Koni 4/4s...its a good shock setup.

I run -1.9 (Driver) and -2.1 (Passenger) camber...and so far tires are wearing evenly.

i set my toe to zero and caster is around 5.5

too much toe out will eat the inside edge of your tires in VERY short order...