M1SERY

is it necessary to use an J-41479 special tool to install my rear main seal or can i just install it with a little extra finesse??

which is the better seal ?

summit has them but not sure bout quality?

thanks

RezinTexas

I installed mine using the method in Potak's book. No special tools required. 3k miles later and no leaks.

M1SERY

care to elaborate, i don't have the book, Thanks

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you have the proper side of the seal outside.
The seal has very small letters on the rubber, itself (this side out), or somesuch. You can only see the letters under a light from a specific angle.
When installing the seal, make sure that it is installed all the way in-not just flush with the outside edge of the rear cover.
The seal does not require lube. I cleaned off the crank hub with citri-solv, to clear any worn rubber from the old seal. I also burnished the wear area with light emory cloth.
Install/hang the rear cover with seal, and let it center itself.
As I installed bolts in rear cover, I placed a finger under the cover, to support it. Finger-tighten bolts to hold cover in place.
Tighten bolts in steps, until you acquire proper torque.
I tried using the supplied, plastic tool, to center the cover, but found the tool was not helpful.
The oil pan is installed last.
One year, & 3500 miles later, no leaks.

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

Did mine a couple thousand miles ago, pull it out with a small flap tip screwdriver on the cut outs on the block. You can work it out outside of that grove just dont score the surface. Clean the area, grab a 2x4 or 2x6 (short in length) drill a hole out bigger than the shaft insert area so the board goes around it and sits flush on the seal. Hammer in softly with rubber mallet then remove board and lightly tap making sure it is square all the way around and one side is not sticking out further. Or just tap it with a blunt object ensuring your going in flush all the way around the seal, it's not hard.

How I did it no leaks, no problems. I did borrow someone's seal puller tool but gave that junk back to them. Small flathead screwdriver worked better.

As far as the seal brand I believe I just picked mine up from local autozone because I had the tranny out and wanted to go ahead and replace mine.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I've always put in the front and rear seals in with a hammer and a piece of wood, gently of course. Never an issue.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

During a forged 347 build for a guy, I borrowed the tool from the local GM garage that my buddy worked at, and wound up not even using it. 2 years later and no issues. Sometimes these "special tools" are a gimmick.

M1SERY

thanks,,i feel the same way bout some of those special tools, that what i wanted to hear.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I installed a new seal in my 00' Hawk when I did my clutch last month. I used the plastic circle thing that came with the seal. Lube the seal and the crank. Tapped around on the seal with a rubber mallet and went right in. Easy peasy.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

is the seal supposed to go in dry?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I meant the inside on the lip so it doesn't drag on the crankshaft when installing it. Yes the outside that goes in dry.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I've always used RTV around the outside of the front and rear seals, probably overkill, but never had an issue.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Yeah I use 3M weather stripping adhesive sometimes.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Lube only the outside of the seal, then it almost pushes in with your fingers. The just lightly tap it in all the way with a punch & hammer.

Don't use the plastic sleeve, and the sealing lip must not be oiled.

Russ Kemp