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questions after install of line loc.

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Old 12-29-2012, 04:08 AM
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Default questions after install of line loc.

So I finished installing my SJM lineloc I'm not sure if I bled the system correctly, before I fired the 1998 Camaro Z28 up again I had my dad pump the brake three times and hold it, I did this same process in all four corners. But when I turned it on the pedal seems way to soft and the pedal goes all the way down. So did I not bleed the brakes correctly also should I bleed all four corners again or just the two front calipers, and what is the correct way to bleed the brakes.
Old 12-29-2012, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 1sicss
So I finished installing my SJM lineloc I'm not sure if I bled the system correctly, before I fired the 1998 Camaro Z28 up again I had my dad pump the brake three times and hold it, I did this same process in all four corners. But when I turned it on the pedal seems way to soft and the pedal goes all the way down. So did I not bleed the brakes correctly also should I bleed all four corners again or just the two front calipers, and what is the correct way to bleed the brakes.
when i did my sjm line lock i went and bleed all the brakes again. i started off just by doing the front 2 which i thought would be enough but it wasnt. we went back and did all 4 and much better. now i have a question for you. the led they supplied burnoued out on me the first time i went to use it. its all hooked up correctly. i went to radioshack and found the exact same led for $1 and bought a new one. hooked it up and bam burned out again first try. did this happen to you also? very cheap stuff included in that kit and im kind of pissed off about it. i went back to radioshack and bought a 1 amp resistor i believe so hopefully that wont happen again. very annoying. line lock works no issues also.
Old 12-29-2012, 10:38 AM
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You will have to bleed all 4 corners.
Old 12-30-2012, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mikh338
when i did my sjm line lock i went and bleed all the brakes again. i started off just by doing the front 2 which i thought would be enough but it wasnt. we went back and did all 4 and much better. now i have a question for you. the led they supplied burnoued out on me the first time i went to use it. its all hooked up correctly. i went to radioshack and found the exact same led for $1 and bought a new one. hooked it up and bam burned out again first try. did this happen to you also? very cheap stuff included in that kit and im kind of pissed off about it. i went back to radioshack and bought a 1 amp resistor i believe so hopefully that wont happen again. very annoying. line lock works no issues also.
No I didn't have this problem what I did was I wired the TS and LED together meaning twisted them together and into a but connector to the PS button. LED ground to the black wire from cigarette lighter and the TS other wire to the fuse thing that came with kit to the orange wire off the cigarette lighter. I hope this helps.
Old 12-30-2012, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 1sicss
No I didn't have this problem what I did was I wired the TS and LED together meaning twisted them together and into a but connector to the PS button. LED ground to the black wire from cigarette lighter and the TS other wire to the fuse thing that came with kit to the orange wire off the cigarette lighter. I hope this helps.
alright i will go back thru and double check everything. originally i had it to cig lighter also but i ended up grounding it off my shifter bolts.
Old 12-30-2012, 07:15 AM
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Rebleed all four and start with the caliper furthest away working yourself closer (i.e. right rear, left rear, right front, left front). Don't move to the next caliper until all the air bubbles are gone from the one you are working on. Keep an eye on the fluid in the MC.

Yes the switch and LED are pretty cheap. I picked up a safety switch with a light built in so it is all in one unit. The cigarette lighter power and ground leads worked fine for me. In fact I am also using them to operate the cutout.
Old 12-30-2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ssgunny
Rebleed all four and start with the caliper furthest away working yourself closer (i.e. right rear, left rear, right front, left front). Don't move to the next caliper until all the air bubbles are gone from the one you are working on. Keep an eye on the fluid in the MC.

Yes the switch and LED are pretty cheap. I picked up a safety switch with a light built in so it is all in one unit. The cigarette lighter power and ground leads worked fine for me. In fact I am also using them to operate the cutout.
have a pic of how you mounted your switches? i must have something f d in the wiring or a bad connection somewhere. i will check it again. i hate the way the switches look i want to redo them, such cheap stuff SJM sent.
Old 12-31-2012, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mikh338
have a pic of how you mounted your switches? i must have something f d in the wiring or a bad connection somewhere. i will check it again. i hate the way the switches look i want to redo them, such cheap stuff SJM sent.
I have yet to actually "mount" it. I removed the ash tray and it sit there. I have enough slack to pull it up a bit and open the cover and engage the switch. When I am done I close the cover which automatically disengages the switch and tuck it back away. I had removed the little cubby area (or whatever you want to call it) and put in a polypropylene panel in it place as a mock up with the momentary switch, LED, and toggle switch mounted. It worked fine but I moved to what I have now with a momentary switch on the shifter ****. So with that said I am not using any of the stuff beyond the solenoid/brake lines that SJM sent.

Edit: I have added a few pics. The first two are of the wiring and the simple mock-up. Once I tested it I made the changes that I described above.
Attached Thumbnails questions after install of line loc.-line-lock-wiring.jpg   questions after install of line loc.-line-lock-finished.jpg   questions after install of line loc.-new-switch.jpg  

Last edited by ssgunny; 01-03-2013 at 08:36 AM.



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