wls6ramair

hi im pretty new to the ls motors.heres my situation.i have a 01 ram air ta with 70k on it.red in great shape etc..i am never planning on selling it so heres my plan for it.i purchased a backhalf kit from s&w race cars ive allways wanted a pro street car as long as i can remember.i had a guy with a honda civic ask me if id be interested in selling the motor.i did some research and found a place called blue print engines.they have a brand new ls7 427 with 625hp and about the same tq with a dyno sheet and a 3yr 30k mile warranty for 8500 bucks.they have a conversion kit to put it in a gen3 car.they say it will bolt right up to my auto trans and headers etc with no mods.i have spent probably 80 hrs doing research on what type of combo to go with and this is the one for me.with all the ta's out there im hoping someone has maybe done this swap so any advice or info would be greatly appreciated.and ya i sold him my motor,didnt want the trans hes going with a stick.im going auto from monster trans. thanks wls6ramair

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Blue print engines is a decent company, but...I have always turned their way for reman quality engines, not performance.

There is a reason that engine is only going for 8500, and not 15k like a similar engine from Tsp or HKE.

JustinT

Yeah, its called ......nut swingers. Check the fine print in the warranty and roll with it.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

You get what you pay for...

Remember, it's easy to spend someone else's money.

wls6ramair

hi guys, wow i didnt expect so many replies.like i said in my previous post i have done alot of research on this swap,these are some of the things the 427 from blueprint come with.new ls3 gm block,new gm ls3heads,gm factory roller rockers with upgraded roller trunnion,i beam rods,forged crank,forged mahle pistons,hardened push rods.those are all really good components and i will upgrade the rod bolts with arp,s as well as all the other bolts if they are not allready done that way.will also use a fluid damper a must.the 427 from gm performance is 505 hp i believe and costs allmost 13k.i only put this info on here so that you can see its a pretty well built motor with really good parts not to mention u get 625 hp instead of 505 from gm performance for 5 k less.im not gona drag race it i wanted a pro street with alot of hp.plus a warranty they dont warranty their race motors but this is considered a crate motor so 3 yrs or 50k miles.i hope there are no hard feelings,that was not my intention and i truly appreciate all your guys feedback. so any way has anyone out there done a swap like this?if so any problems,thanks wls6ramair

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

get a v6 roller body and save a WS6 !!!!!!!!!!

garygnu

looks like a great deal ! do a nhra legal cage you be running 9s.

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

I wouldn't even let the "warranty" weigh in your decision since your planning to race it in a back halved fbody.


From my experience with a crate engine for a Blazer my dad used to have, these people that offer "warranties" will use any kind of excuse they can to get out of paying you or giving you a refund. If your installing the motor yourself FORGET ABOUT ANY WARRANTY COVERAGE, your automatically and idiot that didn't know what he was doing

We asked said company of who they wanted us to install the motor and 3 months later (no **** 3 months) when it broke, they denied our claim. It was such a bullshit event that the shop owner broke his 5 year's of being a dealer for them because he said he couldn't have stuff like that being associated with their name.

I have no experience with BP, but like BWW3588 said... you always get what you pay for.

It's not nutswinging if its the truth. It cost more to do it twice than do it right once. There is always a compromise somewhere to reflect the pricing, you simply can't just price stuff so much lower than someone else without it effecting profits.

Ever noticed how every place is priced within 10 bucks of each other, even when they "have mind blowing stupid lowest prices anywhere? It's because you can only go so low no matter who you are. If you can't afford a quality engine of that caliber then you might need to reassess your goals and budget.

But again I have no experience with them so I'm not saying don't go with them, just read that warranty.

I would look at some of the sponsors on here, they offer combo's that will meet your expectations.

Again, it's all your decisions I just hate reading about people getting screwed by these huge re-man motor dealers.

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

My advice:
Pro street is old school and dead, not cool, and a waste of time and money in my opinion. Guys do more with small tires today than you could ever think of in the 80's.

Save the low mileage car and either convert a 6 cylinder or just buy someone's cut up junk box. I would think in this market you could actually get someone's race car for a lot less than it would cost to build one and turn it back into a street car. Then again - they may all be small tire cars!

Good luck with what ever you do.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

FWIW....forged crank has several hundred meanings and the price of this mill
tells me it was made in either Tunusia, Malasia, Bangladesh, or China...etc.
There are several alloys to start....1083, 5140, or 4340.
There are many types as well....Twist forging, Non-twist forging, or Billet.
Then there are several procedures to manufacturing (grinding)
Some are fully ground overseas, some are rough machined overseas then
finish machined stateside.
There are several hardening standards also...some only surface harden to a
depth of 10 or 15 thousandths.....Callies for example hardens to about .080"
allowing for the strength to remain even after subsequent regrinds.
And lastly and most comonly overlooked is the stroke sizing, indexing, and
journal consistency. Inexpensive cranks simply do not have the details needed
for a performance engine IMO. You seriously need to research such things and
consider if 625 will be ALL you ever need.....cuz like any good addiction most
want more and I'd probalby strap a pair of turbos on that 427 and E85 it to
the tune of 1500 horse....LOL....good luck with your project...

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

I agree,

Back Halving the car really is not needed, while it looks f-n' badass on the older classics and I like it, you can go REALLY fast on radials and stock suspension. I mean I'm not one of these guys that thinks the cars are going to be worth alot later. It simply would save you alot of fab work and you likely would never truly NEED it. What are you ET goals?

reinhardt02

Good advice?

Don't go commando in jeans, it is WAY to easy to get caught up in the zipper. How did you get the beans above the frank?

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

wls6ramair

thanks for all the advice you guys i dont ever take advice lightly.i do have a friend of mine that owns a shop and he buys nothin but wrecked ta,s and camaros.strips em down and sells the good remaining parts.i think i may buy a front end wreck ta and build that instead.could pick up a very good body from him on the cheap.as far as old school vs new drag radial cars i agree the new outlaw 10.5 class is proof of that.damn they are quick i am doing this build becuase it has been something my dad and i have wanted to do for a long time hes 66 now and im 42 .time is becoming a factor,unfortunately.we have allways loved the way a pro street car looks.from behind nothin but tire and a diff showin.ill save my car and build one for dad and i to play with street strip car would like to hit 6.0-6.5 in the 8th mile.our local track is lancaster speedway its 8th mile and very close to home.i appreciate all the advice yous have givin and i will keep yous updated

wls6ramair

hi guys after a long time weighing my options i am not putting a 427 in.im keping my motor and putting in an f2 procharger.i found a guy on racing junk .com that has a f2 intercooled with all upgraded parts new still in the boxes for 7k.made for the ls1 also ,bonus.i am also going to do a moser rear and not tub it,anyway i need help,does anyone know of any company that makes an agtermarket shifter that will fit in my center console for the 4l60.ive looked at b&m hurst etc and cant find anything.plenty for the 6 speed nothin for an auto though at least that i can find.also what is the widest size tire that i can run with little modification.any advice on me stiffining the car up to handle the hp this procharger is going to put out would be greatly appreciated.this site is great and you all seem very knowledgeable so as a newbee to the f body im in the dark.thanks guys and girls really glad i joined this site. thanks again wls6 ram air

TyCZ28

you can get an ls3 crate motor complete from GM for about 7k. do a head and cam package with some longtubes and push 600+ wheel reliably and have all GM parts. thats what id do.

also if your planning on running that big of a procharger... you might wanna get a build 6.0 shortblock with an ls3 topend because youll destroy that aluminum block with that much power

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

This might be a little late but tci makes a shifter, I forget the brand but Jakes sells it called the sidewinder, and there is another one madman recommends. Do a search for what shifters guys are using using the google site search feature and you will find plenty of threads about this.