69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys,

Was wondering if someone can give me a quick run-down of what's needed to swap in a 5.3/th400 into a 98 Stang? Is a new K-member necessary and why? Anything else? I will be running the Holley EFI system, but keep the factory ECU to keep everything else working. What about the speedo?

Thanks!!!

redss82

A 98 if it was a 4.6 you can modify the 4.6 motor mounts to work. Your going to have to search and find out what oil pan works with that combo and make or mod the trans crossmember

jridenour31

Yup, buy some solid 4.6 motor mounts and modify them or you can just make your own. You'll need to do something for a crossmember.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

If the the car was a 6 cly, does it make a difference as far as installing the engine/trans?

redss82

Pretty sure the v6 had the older type mounts so youd need to make a set, put a factory 4.6 kmember i, or buy a aftermarket kmember

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Is the K member swap a big deal, or am I better off finding a v8 car to start with?

RacerXLs1

iTrader: (14)

Swap the k. If the car is clean that is what i would do. There are tons of swaped foxes and sn95s so it shouldnt be a problem finding the right info.

jridenour31

I've heard the v6 K's were different but the only one I ever messed with had the 4.6 style k. Even if you end up having to swap, there's only six bolts holding it on once the suspension is off, very simple.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Thanks guys, seems the k-member deal isnt something major either way.

Can I get the factory gauages to work if I keep the factory ECU in place in addition to the Holley EFI system?

If the car has anti-lock brakes, will they continue to function?

jridenour31

Yes, you can make the gauges work but they are 100% useless dummy gauges.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Just wanted to update this and maybe get some more insight.

No aftermarket K, different intake, acessory drive, or hood needed!!!

I picked up a 5.3 '02, and mated to a th400 and installed it using the stock K and 4.6 mounts. The stock truck intake and TB are clearing the stock hood I needed to notch the stock K at a corner, but she's in. I also notched the hood reinforcement "bulges" which is actually fiberglass. At first I started trimming the intake's threaded bosses and also contoured the TB until I realized that wasnt going to be enough, then I decided to trim the hood. Everything clears except the alternator which I know will be tight - I dont have the truck alt at this point but I measured the one on my Yukon to get a reference, looks like I need another 1/4"-3/8" (using the Mustang temporarily). I may have to trim the truck alt a bit, or try and raise the tail shaft a little more. Right now I have about 3* of driveline angle (engine tilted back).

Couple of notes - the truck intake fits beautiful, but it hangs down about 3.5"
under the 'member. And given the fact that the 'member has scrapes on it from bottoming, the truck pan isnt an option. The F-body pan actually sits above the 'member by about an inch or more. I think the muscle car or CTS-V pan may of been perfect, but the f-body pan was here.

Couple questions for you guys: Is there a smaller alternator that can be used that will bolt-up in place of the truck alt, and anybody know what the proper drivelive angle should be for these cars??








Truck pan:



F-body pan:

RacerXLs1

iTrader: (14)

My buddy has a build thread on here. His name is 9sec93. Check it out.