slowride

iTrader: (3)

My build thread from last week

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...tte-build.html

I am running 2 -10 lines from the turbos, slightly uphill over the cradle. The lines will y together (can I use a T here or must it be a Y fitting?) then go to the pump mounted close to the same location as APS used on c5's. I can put a check valve in the return side, but I plan to tap the pan or front cover so it will already be low. You guys think I'd still need the check if the oil return to the engine is below/at the pump level? It doesn't seem like there would be much oil to stop from backflowing.

For oil feed I'm running 2 -3AN lines t'd into the sending unit location on top of the engine block. Turbos are journal bearing turbonetics with no restrictors in the feed lines. I can have the EXA pump with the inlet/suction facing up or down, but facing up makes for a cleaner install as I have to reverse the pump direction and make the lines slightly longer. The pump itself will not be much higher than the cradle, but there is slightly more uphill approach to the pump with the inlet facing up because of the fitting/90 bend. Either way the drain lines have to come up slightly to tuck them above the cradle. Do you think the slight bit of height difference matters?

Would you guys add a timer to the pump to run it for 10-30 seconds after the car shuts down? I feel I'm keeping all the lines as low as possible, so it should work out ok. I might be splitting hairs here, but I'm just trying to take some of the guess work out. I just don't want to have a smokey mess when done and have to tear it all apart for a re-plumb. All my past turbo experiance is with gravity drain stuff.

Thanks,
Ed

Ping King

iTrader: (20)

I would wire a turbo timer on a relay to just run the pump. I ran a scavenge pump on a previous turbo setup. I had it wired to the Acc On circuit, however if i did it again, i would make sure that it was on a timer circuit. Too much thought had to go into shutting the car off.

Also, i ended up running a small drain reservoir off of the turbo, which the pump would then pull from. Judging from your pictures, I'm not sure if that is an option for you.

3800SII

I disagree with using a turbo timer if you have a deep enough drain from the oil outlet to the pump. If you have a drop less than 4 inches then just make sure that you have an oil check valve with 1 to 2 psi cracking pressure installed pre-turbo(NOT A CHECK VALVE POST TURBO), and it will work better. Once the engine shuts off then so will the pressure and you won't pool oil into the turbo bearing. I have my rearmount setup like this for over 4 years with zero failures.

Ping King

iTrader: (20)

I don't disagree about the checkvalve and what you are saying, but remember the big picture and Slowride's build. He doesn't really have any clearance under the turbos, or the drop needed for the turbos to drain while shut off. Its best to have the pump running for 15-30 seconds after shutdown to keep the oil out of the seals.

In your situation you have enough volume and drop under the turbo to drain them after shut down.

3800SII

You are right! I just saw the pic of his drain, and there is like an inch of drop at the most with the anodized fitting.

slowride

iTrader: (3)

Yea, not so much with this car and oil pan. I'll have to see how it works without for now.

slowride

iTrader: (3)

I've been looking into doing these two small check valves in the pressure lines. Which one did you end up using?

slowride

iTrader: (3)

I'd guess my turbo bearing housings are close to the same level as most APS type corvette kits. The turbo shaft is still quite a bit higher than the drain flange, but tilting the turbo back sure doesn't help either. It's just the only way these kits will fit to get the intake over the subframe.

I think I'm going to flip the pump and keep the suction/intake side down so the line never gets any higher than it has to. If I ran the -10 lines under the subframe it would be even better, except the chance of ripping off the lines on the road and not looking the best.

slowride

iTrader: (3)

Any word on which check valves you guys are using on the oil feed. I found some at mcmaster carr, but they are rated at 180 f max temp. RB racing has some, but I can't tell if they are the same as the others with a x4 markup or not.

Boo"SS"t

iTrader: (2)

I've just installed two check valves from Mcmaster-Carr on my twin set-up. 1 in the "T" fitting oil supply and 1 in scavenge's pump outlet, they are rated up to 180*F like you've mentioned, but I'm not too worried about it, they are more than likely way under rated for the fact that it's mainly use for industrial machines. Seems like it's working, I just need to finish up the welds on the 2 oil accumulators that I just made, co'z you would still have quite a bit of oil in the lines even right after shutdown, unless you want to install a turbo timer hook-up to your scavenge pump to keep pumping the remaining oil in the lines. Anyway, these are the part#'s: (pre-turbo)#7768K55, (post-turbo)#7768K69.

Ping King

iTrader: (20)

I had a brass flapper plumbing valve on the outlet of my scavenge pump. Just watch the pump output's check valve for restriction.

Oh4GTO

iTrader: (46)

Thanks for the check valve info. Now I can get rid of my electrically operated piece that APS supplies. I'm always worried that one day it won't open and starve my turbos.