69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Looking to pick up a 95-97 V6 Mustang and do a LS/TH350-400 swap with a turbo. Do I NEED to change K-members - if so why? I did a search and it appears that the 96+ cars use the same K-mem as the 4.6's, and isnt there 4.6 to LS conversion mounts out there?

thanks for any insight.

usdmholden

I believe all year V6s had the 5.0 k-member.

If you build your own motor mounts, you don't need to change anything, assuming you build round headers which are known to fit. IE Hedman swap headers.

JankesGTO

iTrader: (2)

Buy the k member and save yourself the headache or do a motor plate. You can mod the mustang mount but it doesn't work with the truck engine blocks.

MikeFSKSpeed

iTrader: (37)

The $300 K-Member gives you SOOO much more room.

When you are ready PM me for a deal, I have all the AJE stuff you need for the front end.

Mike

Capown

iTrader: (5)

I love my AJE setup in my 93 coupe, it just fell into place lol! If you wanted to save money you can probably pick up a stock 4.6 K-member and buy the UPR swap mounts they're around 158. off ebay. I had them and then realized that 4.6 and 5.0 k-members are way different. So i sent them back, took out my D&D k that was in my car and ordered the AJE K already setup for a LS. <--MUCHO Easier lol!

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

I dont really want to buy a k-member if poss b/c then there's other things I need to deal with right (like a-arms, coil-overs, alignment, etc)?? Being that I going with a turbo (no long-tubes) and manifolds I figured the stock K should be OK.

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

I was having the same thought as you with the stock k member, you can notch it and build mounts, but imo its far easier to buy the aje k member and use the stock a arms with the spring perches which is the route im going with.I honestly would also do castor camber plates as well, because the extra weight on the front end will change the alignment and slightly throw everything off.you may not notice it but it will

superbean

I got a used 4.6 K member and swap mounts for $150.. ill let you know how they fit.

99MUSTANG5.3L

I have an 01 mustang that I swapped in a 5.3. I set the motor in place with the stock k member (v6) and I would have needed run a 5" cowl hood to get the intake to clear. Went with AJE and it fit like a glove. Now I`m going with UPR`s kit during the rebuild.

vnmous97

yeah the AJE is the best way to go so much more room not to mention the weight savings

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Yes keep us posted thanks!!!


Is this due to the truck intake or the fact that the engine just has to sit higher with the stock k? If you have buy a cowl hood with the stock K, then there would be no cost savings and might as well get an aftermarket K. But, will an aftermarket K allow the stock truck intake to be used??

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the pic, I think I can see how the engine will drop down lower into that K. Is that soild mounts or is there some sort of poly/rubber there? Cann all the stock suspension be used? Other fellow mentioned caster plates for alignment?? This is all the stuff I'm trying to avoid to be honest.

gsnickets

Im getting ready to do the same thing to mine. Luckily theres a fab shop that is starting to make them for the ls swap in mustangs for 400.00

99MUSTANG5.3L

I think it was a combination of both. With the AJE k-member I still needed a cowl hood with the truck intake. It hit right at the throttle body, I am DBW and don't know if DBC would work any better. I have the engine as low as I am comfortable going ( about a 1/2" away from steering rack/k-member).

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Just wanted to update this and maybe get some more insight.

No aftermarket K, different intake, acessory drive, or hood needed!!!

I picked up a 5.3 '02, and mated to a th400 and installed it using the stock K and 4.6 mounts. The stock truck intake and TB are clearing the stock hood I needed to notch the stock K at a corner, but she's in. I also notched the hood reinforcement "bulges" which is actually fiberglass. At first I started trimming the intake's threaded bosses and also contoured the TB until I realized that wasnt going to be enough, then I decided to trim the hood. Everything clears except the alternator which I know will be tight - I dont have the truck alt at this point but I measured the one on my Yukon to get a reference, looks like I need another 1/4"-3/8" (using the Mustang temporarily). I may have to trim the truck alt a bit, or try and raise the tail shaft a little more. Right now I have about 3* of driveline angle (engine tilted back).

Couple of notes - the truck intake fits beautiful, but it hangs down about 3.5"
under the 'member. And given the fact that the 'member has scrapes on it from bottoming, the truck pan isnt an option. The F-body pan actually sits above the 'member by about an inch or more. I think the muscle car or CTS-V pan may of been perfect, but the f-body pan was here.

Couple questions for you guys: Is there a smaller alternator that can be used that will bolt-up in place of the truck alt, and anybody know what the proper drivelive angle should be for these cars??








Truck pan:



F-body pan:

tired2valve

Aje k member here!!! Everything fits great.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Bought a alternator for a Silverado, 105 amp. Dont you know the hood closes!!!!

Admittedly, I still need to get the UPR engine plates which are 1/4" thick, so the engine will go up a bit, but right now there about 1/2" of clearance to the hood, so we'll make it.

Danny Danny

Can you reupload the pictures it seems there no longer available