LT11996

Just curious, is this an LT1 timing set? I have a friend that works at Advance Auto telling me about it and we weren't positive if it is. Or if it has any bad reviews or anything http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ear_15280031-p

duh

iTrader: (16)

looks like its a stock replacement for an LT1....Cheap, but it'll stretch just like the stock one...

NewOrleansLT1

That's a stock replacement

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Nothing wrong with it. Lots of guys run those.

LT11996

Thanks guys. Wasn't sure. Just weighing my options for when I start replacing my cam gear and stuff on my 93 motor to run my 96's vented opti and what not.

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

You have experience with it?

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

I put one in and it sounded like I put in a gear drive. The teeth on the back of the cam gear were cut wrong. Took it all apart again to put in a Delco one and no more noise. I wouldn't recommend it. Doing it twice sucks.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

I like to get timing sets from Rockauto.com
They give you the Cloyes option for almost all GM vehicles (Cloyes was the OEM supplier for our timing sets). Whether you're after link type, roller, double roller,....., Cloyes is as good as it gets for quality control. And the Cloyes part number will typically fit tighter than the GM part number because Cloyes makes them looser for GM to facilitate automated assembly line installation.

duh

iTrader: (16)

What ^ he said. Spend a few extra bucks on the cloyes. The stock stuff is good enough but if you're spending the time to upgrade the engine might a well get better.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

IMO, Go EWP and install a Pro Gear set. It's a single roller, no clearance issue like with double roller and strong as hell. All gears are tumbled to remove any burrs and are hardened.

LT11996

The same said friend has an 80's Chevy truck that he just dropped an LT1 into and it has one of these EWP in it. http://www.csr-performance.com/shop/...ump-conversion

Do they last awhile? The reason I never wanted to convert (besides that I bought a brand new waterpump last year that I've never installed) is that I would be scared it would wear out in the middle of traffic or something

Edit: was looking on Pro Gear's website and I really have no idea which timing set are for LT1's. They have like Camdex, 4000 series, 3000 series, TR series, and TK series

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

For EWP. CSR & Meziere are very good. I run the Meziere HD. Little more $$ but worth it. More flow too. Both are rebuildable as well. The only issue I ever ran into was it would blow the inline fuse. So I bought a 30 amp circuit breaker and never had an issue after that. Mine has about 20k miles on it and I know some guys with over 50k.

You could always sell the new one to make up for some of the price of EWP.

As for Pro gear, the 4000 series are 8 keyway crank gear, the 3000 are 3 keyway. I think mine is the 4145. I don't think it was the -1, I'll have to look.

You can only get them from one of their dealers. I searched and searched and priced and finally found one that was great. Hughes is WAY over priced. When I get home I'll look at my receipt on where I bought it from. He lists Pro gear on ebay and that's how I got his ph# for the part # I needed. He actually had quite a few sets in stock. I think it was @ $87 shipped.


EDIT>>> CGM Motorsports on ebay

LT11996

$87 shipped isn't bad at all. Ive had lots of people tell me to switch to an electric water pump. And yeah I'm gonna be selling the unused waterpump, 93 intake manifold, throttle body, fuel rails and injectors to help with the cost. I plan on this being a fairly stout LT1 for awhile

LT11996

This is the only one I can find for a SBC that they sell. It's a double roller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-BILLET-H...cbc393&vxp=mtr

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Before you give up on the stock WP you should read some past threads about EWPs and see if they're for you. What are your goals for the engine? Do you need to ditch the stock timing gears? OEM timing sets work great and last a long time.

LT11996

I would say for now the goals for the engine are to be a strong daily driving motor that can get into the low low 8's at the track (1/8th of course). I'm probably just going to go with a cc503 for now. I've always read that you should buy new timing sets when doing a cam swap on a higher mileage engine so that was my reasoning behind it. Plus since I'm swapping out the cam gear on my 1993 motor, I would assume the cam gear on the 184k miles 1996 motor is worn down so I figured it would be the best time to just get a whole new set

tbag_skywalker

I'm running the SA Gear set from Advance right now. Installed it in last April when I did my cam swap. Works totally fine, not a single problem.

I put about 3000 miles on the car last summer, including several mid 12 second passes without any issue.

JakeSS/Z28

i have had the sa chain and crank sprocket on my car for 20k miles without a problem, only thing is in my experience the cam sprocket never fits i've seen this on 3 different cars so just use the chain and crank sprocket they see the most wear anyway good luck

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

People love to hate the stock style timing chains despite them being very reliable. Stop and consider GM put that chain on knowing it was going to see the fairly substantial load of the mechanical waterpump and even with all that extra load they are still very very reliable.

Far as the electric pumps, yes they can offer another .1 at the track, they do begin to COMPROMISE cooling slightly. Cruise temps will be slightly elevated as seen through the pcm. They do an adequate job barely and IMO even after using one they are greatly over recommended on this site by idiots who actively refuse to understand basic physics. The electrics free up power by moving less water period.

The failure mode on electrics is often sudden stoppage guys have lost motors by the time they notice the overheating and get out of the line of traffic. Sure a mechanical could lose the impeller but it is a LOT LESS likely.
The mechanicals usually fail by weeping which causes the belt to slip and makes the power steering feel bad and will do this for maybe a month or more without a big leak draining the coolant enough to cause overheating giving you a chance to replace it.

Yes electrics are easier to swap if you carry a spare and extra fluid but the mechanicals you can get at most parts stores same day.

There are advantages to the electrics but not the drastic magical advantages most around here will push.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Uh huh!!!!

SO my 55gpm pump running at the same speed all the time is worse than a mechanical pump that will fluctate with engine speed?

Not to mention...I can bleed the cooling sytem without even starting the car. Hmmmm. That makes life simple.

As far as the timing sets? Breakage is not the concern, it's stretching. Loose chain = poor irregular timing. My original set had 135k and my last LT1 set had less than 30k miles on it and I could damn near. Both were like the chain slack on a dirt bike.

There's a reason why "race engines" run belt or gear drive. It's not for the sound. It's for timing accuracy.

BTW, wy do you think GM made the Extreme duty Set? they new the stocker was weak.