Cam/Spray or FI?
#1
Cam/Spray or FI?
Just looking for some input on mods for this spring. Looking to either go with a cam and some spray or save for a FI setup. I have pros and cons both ways, but I was looking for some first hand experience.
What was the powerband difference?
Reliability vs saftey?
Issues with either setup?
Things to keep in mind?
The car is an 02 ws6 M6 with bolt ons.
What was the powerband difference?
Reliability vs saftey?
Issues with either setup?
Things to keep in mind?
The car is an 02 ws6 M6 with bolt ons.
#4
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Well one thing I can say about nitrous is that if you are talking similar peak hp numbers (from nitrous, blower, or turbo) the nitrous cars always seem to run faster. I have experienced that time and time again in the Mustang world. Must be the instant hp and tq increase and no parasidic losses. Reliability seems to be similar from what i've seen if everything is done right.
#6
To be honest, nitrous just scares me. I really don't want to leave the motor all over the road..
#7
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FI will leave it on the road just as quickly....maybe not as violently though.
It costs quite a bit more than nitrous though. some people attempt to do a budget setup only to end up going way further than they ever thought. look into it for quite and while and dont be afraid to send a PM or two with a question and get a feel for what you are getting into
to me. FI is more rewarding than a bottle fed car because it is always there and it makes some kickass sounds plus its more hands on.
It costs quite a bit more than nitrous though. some people attempt to do a budget setup only to end up going way further than they ever thought. look into it for quite and while and dont be afraid to send a PM or two with a question and get a feel for what you are getting into
to me. FI is more rewarding than a bottle fed car because it is always there and it makes some kickass sounds plus its more hands on.
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#8
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Yeah^^ definatley agree but anything boosted costs way more than u plan on. My ss been down about a year, mainly cuz I change **** for.the better instead of the "budget " build. It will all come down to.how much youbwanna spend...nitrous will be cheap and effective like a hooker. Boost will be like an addiction, ur wife let's u do.**** and its always there after that.. make since ?
#9
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I have had both no2 and my current setup, though, not on the same car or at the same time. I can say the blower is more fun because it still builds boost and is faster than a n/a car even at part throttle. Nitrous, on the other hand, is generaly faster hp for hp against fi. I dont totally agree with the statement "fi costs twice as much as you originaly plan for". Take my setup for example, I bought the blower kit for $???, injectors for $300, racetronix pump and harness for $ I cant remeber(250)???, and dyno tune for $450, spark plugs (what, $10?). I havent had to spend any other $ on this setup other than a blower belt or two as they wear out every now and then and start to slip up top in the rpm's. Now, before you just go and blow your **** up, remeber this, I didnt buy this kit in hopes of pushing 14lbs of boost and making 650rwhp on a stock engine that Im turning 6500rpm on either. I realize a stock engine has limits and try to stay within those boundry's as best as I can. I will admit, that I have been on the fortunate side of the equation with this setup, but on the same token, if a 150 shot is semi safe on a stock engine why cant 8lbs of boost be aswell?. I had it tuned a lil rich ( 11.3-1.5) and the tuner kept the timming at a very safe 12deg @ WOT. It was bumped up to 15 on the dyno and wasnt producing any more hp so we left well enough alone. I could have ran 100% methanol and according to the tuner probably picked up 50-75rwhp but I opted not to as I dont want to push my luck. I also requested the shift points stay @ 6000rpm for engine and trans relibility. I was advised by the tuner to move the iat sensor to after the intercooler so the ecm could actually see what was going on and when it reaches 120deg the ecm starts pulling timming to be safe. I also dont half throttle it from every red light I come across either. I do get into boost several times a week, usually from about a 50mph roll in 2nd and through most of 3rd (till about 120mph or so). This is all on a completely stock longblock, trans/converter, and the lil 10 bolt that makes absolutely no noise at all with 145,000 miles on it. The combo had 132,000 on it when the kit was installed and its been running beautifully ever since. When the oportunity presents itself the lil camaro gets to put *** whoopin on an unsuspsecting gt500' or c6 vette ...
Last edited by JRENIGAR; 01-18-2013 at 10:36 AM.
#10
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Well one thing I can say about nitrous is that if you are talking similar peak hp numbers (from nitrous, blower, or turbo) the nitrous cars always seem to run faster. I have experienced that time and time again in the Mustang world. Must be the instant hp and tq increase and no parasidic losses. Reliability seems to be similar from what i've seen if everything is done right.
Another one is cablebandit on here. He had a 4000lb car with a 408 and 4l80e trans that ran 9 flat on only 13 psi and pump gas. You would need a good bit of spray to run that number and then you wouldn't be able to do it on pump gas. Turn that car up to 20 psi and meth and you have an all day 8 sec street car.
It won't as long as you tune it right. Camscam and Carter01 are over a 300 shot on their motors. Camscam just had to build a new one because of his error. 98% of the blown motors is the owners fault when it comes down to nitrous. Ask questions and read up in the sections and you will learn alot.
#11
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My trans am had a direct port setup on it. I loved it and the power and tq was violent. It was fun for a long time but I always wanted a bowler. I bought the nitrous cause I figured it would save me a little money and hold me over until I could get a Procharger.
After looking at the cost of me buying all the right parts, extra bottles, bottle refills, etc I could have just been patient and got the blower in the first place. Don't fall into the trap of its cheaper so i'll get that instead because in the end the cost will get up there and you could get what you really want in the first place.
Now like I said I loved it and had a blast with it but I swore that my next car would get a Procharger and that's exactly what I did when I bought the vette. Different feels but I'm much happier now with this setup. If you have any questions just pm me.
After looking at the cost of me buying all the right parts, extra bottles, bottle refills, etc I could have just been patient and got the blower in the first place. Don't fall into the trap of its cheaper so i'll get that instead because in the end the cost will get up there and you could get what you really want in the first place.
Now like I said I loved it and had a blast with it but I swore that my next car would get a Procharger and that's exactly what I did when I bought the vette. Different feels but I'm much happier now with this setup. If you have any questions just pm me.
#12
UNDER PRESSURE MOD
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Here's what sold me on boost over spray. Spray is only there at 100% throttle, boost is there at all rpms and almost all throttle positions.
Now if you could figure out how to spray nitrous at lower rates at lower throttle positions, then it would be tempting, but you'd go through a crap load of nitrous.
I make boost at anything above 35% throttle and 2000 rpms. Even if it's 1-2 psi of boost, it makes driving so much more enjoyable.
The best analogy I heard with reference to a Procharger, is it makes it feel like you have an extra 100 cubic inches of motor.
Now if you could figure out how to spray nitrous at lower rates at lower throttle positions, then it would be tempting, but you'd go through a crap load of nitrous.
I make boost at anything above 35% throttle and 2000 rpms. Even if it's 1-2 psi of boost, it makes driving so much more enjoyable.
The best analogy I heard with reference to a Procharger, is it makes it feel like you have an extra 100 cubic inches of motor.
#13
10 Second Club
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Here's what sold me on boost over spray. Spray is only there at 100% throttle, boost is there at all rpms and almost all throttle positions.
Now if you could figure out how to spray nitrous at lower rates at lower throttle positions, then it would be tempting, but you'd go through a crap load of nitrous.
I make boost at anything above 35% throttle and 2000 rpms. Even if it's 1-2 psi of boost, it makes driving so much more enjoyable.
The best analogy I heard with reference to a Procharger, is it makes it feel like you have an extra 100 cubic inches of motor.
Now if you could figure out how to spray nitrous at lower rates at lower throttle positions, then it would be tempting, but you'd go through a crap load of nitrous.
I make boost at anything above 35% throttle and 2000 rpms. Even if it's 1-2 psi of boost, it makes driving so much more enjoyable.
The best analogy I heard with reference to a Procharger, is it makes it feel like you have an extra 100 cubic inches of motor.
#14
TECH Addict
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yeah....alchemist makes a great point, however, even if you could get the spray to stay on at part throttle driving, it would be no time flat before you had to fill the bottle again. those bottles run out pretty fast depending on the jet and what length the track is.....
in the end, I think the best plan for me would have personally been...dont buy the procharger or turbo first even if the ls is good. sell the motor for what you can while its still running well....get 1500-2000 off of it....and put that motor into a forged shortblock and go from there. or just forge the one you have . I was quoted like 1800 from speed inc for forged rods pistons and bearings ect....not the best stuff ever..but more than enough for a 600-700rwhp car with a good tune.
in the end, I think the best plan for me would have personally been...dont buy the procharger or turbo first even if the ls is good. sell the motor for what you can while its still running well....get 1500-2000 off of it....and put that motor into a forged shortblock and go from there. or just forge the one you have . I was quoted like 1800 from speed inc for forged rods pistons and bearings ect....not the best stuff ever..but more than enough for a 600-700rwhp car with a good tune.
Last edited by I8UR4RD; 01-12-2013 at 03:44 PM.
#17
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thats why you rent a 100lb bottle for $50 per year from the local supplier and buy it in bult to save money. They will most of the time even deliver it to your house. Just fill your smaller bottles at your house for half price if you know how, you dont even need a filling station to do it. Just freeze the smaller bottle overnight and it will basically fill itself with just a transfer hose from the 100lb cylinder. Im not arguing the point that fi is better overall for a dd car than no2.
#18
Thanks for the replies! Lots of good information here. Going FI is sounding like the better route at this point, but that raises a new point. Would a supercharger be a better choice than a Turbo setup? It looks like there is more cost with a Turbo, but it also seems to be more 'fun' from what I have heard. Thoughts on this?
#19
TECH Addict
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Thanks for the replies! Lots of good information here. Going FI is sounding like the better route at this point, but that raises a new point. Would a supercharger be a better choice than a Turbo setup? It looks like there is more cost with a Turbo, but it also seems to be more 'fun' from what I have heard. Thoughts on this?
#20
Thanks for the replies! Lots of good information here. Going FI is sounding like the better route at this point, but that raises a new point. Would a supercharger be a better choice than a Turbo setup? It looks like there is more cost with a Turbo, but it also seems to be more 'fun' from what I have heard. Thoughts on this?