scotts406

I am going LS in my 55 chevy, Wanted to go with the most logical set up to run a turbo low buck set up. have a 4l80e trans. I will run factory computer and injection. I want to run a used engine with a cam and spring swap. Have someone with the capability to tune it (Lextech). I dont have an engine yet so that is open. I want to drive the car and hit the track a few times a summer. Should I go 5.3 or 6.0, single or twin turbos, air to air cooler, what cam and converter, truck or f-body manifolds. What size injectors...etc. I have acc. to an edelbrock intake for an LS, is it worth any power or will it kill low end? Any info would be great. Thanks in advance. Scott Lavin

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

Hey Scott, I would start doing some reading in the Forced Induction section here. There are so many combinations from mild to wild, budget friendly to high dollar.

Mine was more budget oriented. I am running the stock bottom end on my LQ4 with Speed Inc's. TU1 cam and lunati dual springs, with a stock 4L80E minus the trans-go HD2 shift kit, on3 turbo that was $320 shipped, ebay intercooler and piping, 80lb injectors, on E85. The most expensive part of my build was the Circle-D converter.

It put down 606/570 on 14lbs. with the converter unlocked.

My setup is not the most ideal as the turbo is too small for the motor, but so far it has proved to be decently stout. Good luck with your build and shoot me any questions you may have.

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

You can't really run factory fuel system in a turbo that you want to get any hp out of. For low buck use air/air intercooling, truck manifolds, 5.3 will obviously be cheaper than the 6.0, and a single 76mm can get you in the 500s easy. Bottom end upgrades may or May not be necessary.

scotts406

I meant fuel injected and factory computer with bigger injectors of coarse.

Camaro9969

iTrader: (12)

Well it all depends on the budget you have in mind for the build. Do you have a HP in mind for it???? That will help get the ball rolling

garygnu

you will need a better fuel pump.stick to fuel injection and a TB,a blow through carb cost alot.

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Im sorry, i disagree with a few of these guys.

From what i gather, you want the best bang for the buck. Excellent power at a low price. I think it would behove you to read the article, "the actual cost of forced induction." Located in the forced induction section.

You are not going to build a quality system that is going to last for 2-3k. Im sorry, but its not going to happen.

The best cheapest system ive seen produce great power that ive actually used is fairly simple:

zo6 cam
317 heads w/ new springs
ls6 intake, stock tb
intercooler
meth
70-76mm turbo single
Mototron 60lb injectors
Racetronix fuel pump & hotwire kit
shorty / stock headers
Highly recommend Aeroforce Interceptor gauge
2-3bar map (depends on the amount of boost you want)
eboost 2 boost controller

I would consider that pretty basic start of a good setup. Stout, great drivabilty, idles like stock, safe. You can run around 10lbs with that setup all day long. 500hp range


From there I would go Forged internals, dished pistons, stock crank. Now your looking 18-20lbs, 25lbs boost. Same drivability, more power. This will require a better meth system, possibly larger injectors, possibly dual intake pumps. 600-700hp range

Then better heads, increasing air intake.

Then to up that, larger cc motor, larger turbo, huge fuel system.

boostedc10

If it was me I would go 4.8L-5.3L. 6.0L is a waste of money for a budget build.
76mm Turbo
intercooler
60lb mototrons
Valve springs
headstuds
ls9 headgaskets
Skip the 317's and get a triple 12 or tu0 cam
aeromotive stealth pump or walbro 400lph
racetronix hotwire
build a log for the passenger side, truck manifold the drivers
stock bottom end
tighten the ring gaps
hit it with 12lbs and some meth
Should be around 550-600 at the tire, at least my pickup is