sam95transam

Its a nice day so I decided to pull my LS1 out of the garage to work on it. I'm installing a new switch, so I disconnected the battery a couple of times while doing some wiring. The car cranked up several times no problem. I turn the car off and go inside for a bit and come back out to go to the store and thats where my problem starts.

I put the key in the ign, push the clutch in and I hear the dinging sound, clock comes on, and the fuel pump primes. however I'm getting no power to my gauge cluster and when I turn the key in all of the way I get nothing.

I think i've checked all of the related fuses, what would be the next thing to look into?

hopefully my custom tuned PCM isn't fried...

sam95transam

Update: Unplugged the battery from the car for a few hours and then hooked it back up. I thought that if it was a VATS issue that might help. I was wrong.

When I was letting the car roll into the garage I turned the key in the on position and it eventually started making a rapid clicking noise and I traced the vibration to the fuel pump relay.

Anyone have ANY suggestions on where to look at next? I noticed that my window was rolling up unusually slow (it usually goes fairly fast for an F-Body), so since my battery had been nearly dead prior to today maybe it didn't have enough juice to even power the gauges. I tried jumping it with a battery pack but that didn't help either. Bad battery? I'm really at a loss guys.

sam95transam

Still stumped on this guys...someone is bound to have an idea.

ignition switch??

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

A new ignition switch? If not, could you have impacted some of the ignition wiring?

sam95transam

I was actually wiring up a new bottle heater switch, not ignition switch. Sorry for the confusion. I try to be careful when working with electronics, so I ALWAYS disconnect the battery before doing anything. I disconnect the batt, mess with the switch, hook up the battery, turn car on and see if it works. If not, repeat.

I guess I'm going to try to install a new ignition switch because I don't know what else it could be. Isn't this a PITA to do, btw??

I wish I could test the switch before I yank out the steering wheel. I have a voltmeter but to be honest I don't even know how to use the dang thing because I'm an wiring idiot. Is there a walkthrough on how to swap an ignition switch out anywhere??

Thanks for the repl

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't change the ignition switch. I was just asking to rule out a VATS problem.

Does your security light blink when you try to start the car?

Other people have had similar issues with battery terminal corrosion. Maybe unhooking the battery upset some of that? You could have just the right amount of corrosion to power the car's accessories but not crank it. (If you are jumping the car, the power still goes through that battery connection.)

sam95transam

Well, I took the old battery to advance and the guy hooked it up and said it was a bad battery. So, I dropped $100 on a new one and hooked it up to the car and that still didn't work. Battery cables??

I also checked all of the grounds that I could see. (ones on the frame and the one behind the driver's side head)

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Try a search on this. There are lots of threads on battery cable problems that might give you some pointers.

MylesF7

Ive definitely had issues like this with battery cables that were corrode inside the sheathing.. I would also check the starter relay....

MylesF7

Any updates?

sam95transam

I checked the battery cables with a multimeter. My mm wasn't reading any resistance...which I'm told for cables in good shape makes sense.

I really hate not being able to figure out a problem, so last night i got a hair across my a$$ to pull my ignition switch. shbox.com has a good writeup and it wasn't hard. I'd like to get a new one today and give it a shot but I was up all night and am sick as hell today.

If this doesn't work, I'm out of ideas. At least changing this part out only costs me like $15 and a couple of hours of my time. Its basically a last ditch effort to save having to tow it to a local shop.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

It's definitely not your ignition switch. Does your security light blink? If not, its something in the engine bay.

sam95transam

Security light blinks

MylesF7

Yeah, I don't see it being your ignition switch... Did you check the relay?

sam95transam

I swapped out the fan relays with the starter and ignition relays and that didn't work, so I figured that wasn't the problem. Could there be an issue with the panel that the relay plugs into? If so, how could I check that?

KevinR

Sounds like a VATS issue.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

^^^ yep. I wonder if the wire for the VATS was disconnected or otherwise disturbed during the other electrical work.

BTW - A bottle heater sounds a bit extreme to me:


Getting the car seat in must be a total bear.

KevinR

3 things you can do.

#1. Clean the pellet on your key and see if that works.

#2. Pull the panel off below the steering column and look to see if there are any wires that may be disconnected.

#3. Pull the ignition switch. And to answer your question, it is kind of a PITA. I had to do it this last weekend.

If it is your vats, and you don't care about your security system, your tuner can bypass them or you can do a little wiring under the steering column that will allow your car to start by "tricking" the BCM.

sam95transam

I tried two different keys, no luck there . I have the panel off (I think its called the knee bolster panel?) right now because I'm in the process of changing the ignition switch. I didn't see any loose wires before, but I'll double check. I'll keep you guys updated when I can get over this H2N2 sickness LOL

Feel free to keep the ideas coming though. I just want to have my car back!!

sam95transam

wssix99, you were right...

...not the ignition switch.


anyone want a free trans am?