Need help bleeding new tick master cylinder
01-16-2013, 09:23 AM
#5
The top line on the slave is the bleeder.
What I did, with the Tick bleeder:
I installed everything empty. I didn't bench bleed a thing. No need to.
Now we all know the new Tick bleeder has a one way check valve. That's great if you have adequate fluid in the slave and master, but worthless if it's empty.
I filled the reservoir and left the cap off (obviously)
I began pumping the clutch pedal and couldn't get any fluid to move. So...
I took off the check valve part and set it to the side. Stuck that end of the hose into a mason jar (don't ask about the mason jar) half filled with DOT4, and began pumping the pedal. After about 8 pumps I was starting to lose fluid in the reservoir, so refilled and continued to pump.
Slowly my pedal pressure began to increase as the system became full of fluid, and shortly there after I reinstalled the check valve at the end. I tightened it all the way down, then cracked it open a half turn. At this point, I had fluid coming only from the one way check valve when I would push the pedal down.
After a full bottle of DOT4, I had removed all the air from the system, however my pedal was still a bit spongy during the first inch or so of downward travel (as folks have reorted in the past).
I called Martin and he advised only pump the "spongy" portion. I did, and the spongy part slowly came higher and higher in the pedal trave and it was gone. At that time I retorqued the check valve fully closed, and tried it with my foot for the first time. The entire time I bled the system was by hand.
Nice and hard the WHOLE way, start to finish. Took me all of 25 minutes start to finish, and it was my first time.
Hope this novel helps someone, but with the Tick speed bleeder, there's no reason to bench bleed anything at all.
What I did, with the Tick bleeder:
I installed everything empty. I didn't bench bleed a thing. No need to.
Now we all know the new Tick bleeder has a one way check valve. That's great if you have adequate fluid in the slave and master, but worthless if it's empty.
I filled the reservoir and left the cap off (obviously)
I began pumping the clutch pedal and couldn't get any fluid to move. So...
I took off the check valve part and set it to the side. Stuck that end of the hose into a mason jar (don't ask about the mason jar) half filled with DOT4, and began pumping the pedal. After about 8 pumps I was starting to lose fluid in the reservoir, so refilled and continued to pump.
Slowly my pedal pressure began to increase as the system became full of fluid, and shortly there after I reinstalled the check valve at the end. I tightened it all the way down, then cracked it open a half turn. At this point, I had fluid coming only from the one way check valve when I would push the pedal down.
After a full bottle of DOT4, I had removed all the air from the system, however my pedal was still a bit spongy during the first inch or so of downward travel (as folks have reorted in the past).
I called Martin and he advised only pump the "spongy" portion. I did, and the spongy part slowly came higher and higher in the pedal trave and it was gone. At that time I retorqued the check valve fully closed, and tried it with my foot for the first time. The entire time I bled the system was by hand.
Nice and hard the WHOLE way, start to finish. Took me all of 25 minutes start to finish, and it was my first time.
Hope this novel helps someone, but with the Tick speed bleeder, there's no reason to bench bleed anything at all.
03-18-2013, 10:20 PM
#6
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2013
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You don't have to remove the bell housing to install the bleeder line, do you? Is it accessible from outside the bell housing? i haven't been underneath to look yet. My clutch pedal went soft. I think the one-way valve went bad. Plus my fluid looks pretty bad. wish I had known all these issues with hydraulics. I'm probably going to fork out the dough for the Tick MC.
