Air pump fuse question??
01-16-2013, 08:13 PM
#2
TECH Senior Member
The air pump and its hose is full of condensation... everytime the pump runs the water causes a short which blows the fuse.
The air pump/hose get full of condensation when (for some reason) the secondary air is not able to get past the 2 check valves and into the exhaust.
The air pump/hose get full of condensation when (for some reason) the secondary air is not able to get past the 2 check valves and into the exhaust.
Last edited by joecar; 01-16-2013 at 08:26 PM.
01-17-2013, 04:17 AM
#4
TECH Senior Member
Possible causes:
- check valves may be rusted shut,
- diverter valve not working,
- solenoid fed vacuum to diverter valve is disrupted.
Troubleshooting chart: http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic8860.php
- check valves may be rusted shut,
- diverter valve not working,
- solenoid fed vacuum to diverter valve is disrupted.
Troubleshooting chart: http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic8860.php
01-17-2013, 11:18 AM
#7
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I got a better idea. I don't have emissions here so I can eliminate egr and air pump all together. Where can I get block off plates to do this and is there a step by step procedure on doing this. I rather go this route since I want to change the plugs soon anyway. A much cleaner engine bay.
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01-17-2013, 05:57 PM
#8
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I deleted my egr and air pump today and found a major leak coming from the egr pipe that connects in the intake the bolt was stripped out and I just pulled it straight up. Could this have been the cause of the problems I have been having. The air pump also had some dry rotted air lines connected also. I haven't had a chance to block the headers off yet. I won't be able to do this until tomorrow but I was just wondering would this have been the reason for the lack of performance.
01-17-2013, 06:06 PM
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I also pulled the number 1 spark plug and they had AC delco plugs but they were gapped at 40. Is this ok or should they be gapped at 60. Should I go ahead and change all the plugs just to be on the safe side. I was thinking of the NGK tr55s. Any advice on this issue also.
01-18-2013, 12:33 AM
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I researched a couple years ago and installed the NGK TR5IX and they are pre-gapped at .040 which is what you want to use. They should install out the box just fine, Be careful if you do decide to gap them as you can damage the tip. You might as well install new wires too.
here is a good link to info
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...5ix-plugs.html
here is a good link to info
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...5ix-plugs.html
01-18-2013, 07:06 AM
#11
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Thanks I will try those out. But I still haven't got any feed back about the egr and air pump system. I guess I'll find out on my own today once I get everything back together.
01-18-2013, 08:42 AM
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No need to spend unnecessary money. I bought a 35mm freeze plug to black egr going into the intake. and on the headers I will cut off the pipes and weld those up and grind them down and install. This should work.
01-18-2013, 02:44 PM
#14
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i have the AIR block off plates around here somewhere. i bought them before i found out i didn't need them. i got Race style headers. if you want them and if shipping is cheap, let me know, i'll just give them to you.
