Guess on power at flywheel?
01-16-2013, 06:36 PM
#1
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Guess on power at flywheel? Vortech S-Trim 7"/3.33" pulley setup ~6# boost, Tial BOV with low boost spring, Blow through MAF setup.
- .040" over Mahle PowerPak Inverted dome pistons, 9:1
- 5.85" rods, ARP bolts and studs
- Comp Cams 503 hydraulic roller cam and valvetrain
- Mildly ported heads, stock TB and intake
- 62# Racetronix injectors
- Walbro 255LPH in-tank fuel pump
- Be Cool Aluminum radiator
Exhaust
- Jet Hot Hooker Super Comp 1.75" full length headers
- Mufflex 3" Y-pipe to 3.5" Flowmaster
looking at making a purchase.
- .040" over Mahle PowerPak Inverted dome pistons, 9:1
- 5.85" rods, ARP bolts and studs
- Comp Cams 503 hydraulic roller cam and valvetrain
- Mildly ported heads, stock TB and intake
- 62# Racetronix injectors
- Walbro 255LPH in-tank fuel pump
- Be Cool Aluminum radiator
Exhaust
- Jet Hot Hooker Super Comp 1.75" full length headers
- Mufflex 3" Y-pipe to 3.5" Flowmaster
looking at making a purchase.
01-18-2013, 08:09 AM
#6
The heads are really too big a variable for meaningful guesses. The compression is a bit unnecessarily low which would make me question other areas of the build.
The above guesses of 400-410rwhp might be accurate but could be 80+hp more if the heads are good.
I know you asked for flywheel numbers but relatively few people are running LT1s on engine dynos and posting the numbers and the shop that does it most often ends up with a 25% loss by the time the engine is in a car and tuned on a chassis dyno which means his engine dyno is a bit on the optimistic side as a lockup converter and 4L60E should not show that loss level.
The above guesses of 400-410rwhp might be accurate but could be 80+hp more if the heads are good.
I know you asked for flywheel numbers but relatively few people are running LT1s on engine dynos and posting the numbers and the shop that does it most often ends up with a 25% loss by the time the engine is in a car and tuned on a chassis dyno which means his engine dyno is a bit on the optimistic side as a lockup converter and 4L60E should not show that loss level.
01-18-2013, 07:56 PM
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Not sure on how well the heads are ported.. This car is at a dealership and they gave me a list of modifications.. ill post the full list to give a better guess on wheel hp..
1994 trans am. has 79k miles on body. low miles on current engine, trans and rear.
Engine
- Vortech S-Trim 7"/3.33" pulley setup ~6# boost, Tial BOV with low boost spring, Blow through MAF setup.
- .040" over Mahle PowerPak Inverted dome pistons, 9:1
- 5.85" rods, ARP bolts and studs
- Comp Cams 503 hydraulic roller cam and valvetrain
- Mildly ported heads, stock TB and intake
- 62# Racetronix injectors
- Walbro 255LPH in-tank fuel pump
- Be Cool Aluminum radiator
Exhaust
- Jet Hot Hooker Super Comp 1.75" full length headers
- Mufflex 3" Y-pipe to 3.5" Flowmaster
Chassis
- Wolfe Racecraft 6 point roll bar
- Tubular BMR Fab - K member, front control arms, subframe connectors, adjustable rear control arms, torque arm and panhard bar.
- Flaming River Pinto rack
- QA1 12 way adjustable front and rear shocks.
- QA1 springs in front, Eibach Pro-Line springs in rear
Trans/Rear
- DelTrans built T400 with Hipster trans brake, reverse manual valve body, deep aluminum pan
- Pro Torque 10" nitrous converter, ~4800 stall on the brake.
- B&M Pro Ratchet shifter, delay box
- Moser 9" rear, nodular center, Detroit Locker, 4.11 gears, 31 spline axles
Wheels/Tires
- Drag - Weld Racing 15x3.5 and 15X10 - Hoosier 29x13.5-15 QT Pros, 165-15
Misc
- Trunk mount Optima bettery in Moroso box with legal Flaming River shutoff
- Delay box, nothing fancy but it works great.
Exterior/Interior
- Bright Blue Metallic with Tan cloth interior. OEM Ram Air hood in black. T-Tops. Original 6 speed car, has auto pedals in it now.
- Exterior in very good condition for age. always garage kept and cleans up nice. Interior in good condition.
Weighs 3380# without driver
1994 trans am. has 79k miles on body. low miles on current engine, trans and rear.
Engine
- Vortech S-Trim 7"/3.33" pulley setup ~6# boost, Tial BOV with low boost spring, Blow through MAF setup.
- .040" over Mahle PowerPak Inverted dome pistons, 9:1
- 5.85" rods, ARP bolts and studs
- Comp Cams 503 hydraulic roller cam and valvetrain
- Mildly ported heads, stock TB and intake
- 62# Racetronix injectors
- Walbro 255LPH in-tank fuel pump
- Be Cool Aluminum radiator
Exhaust
- Jet Hot Hooker Super Comp 1.75" full length headers
- Mufflex 3" Y-pipe to 3.5" Flowmaster
Chassis
- Wolfe Racecraft 6 point roll bar
- Tubular BMR Fab - K member, front control arms, subframe connectors, adjustable rear control arms, torque arm and panhard bar.
- Flaming River Pinto rack
- QA1 12 way adjustable front and rear shocks.
- QA1 springs in front, Eibach Pro-Line springs in rear
Trans/Rear
- DelTrans built T400 with Hipster trans brake, reverse manual valve body, deep aluminum pan
- Pro Torque 10" nitrous converter, ~4800 stall on the brake.
- B&M Pro Ratchet shifter, delay box
- Moser 9" rear, nodular center, Detroit Locker, 4.11 gears, 31 spline axles
Wheels/Tires
- Drag - Weld Racing 15x3.5 and 15X10 - Hoosier 29x13.5-15 QT Pros, 165-15
Misc
- Trunk mount Optima bettery in Moroso box with legal Flaming River shutoff
- Delay box, nothing fancy but it works great.
Exterior/Interior
- Bright Blue Metallic with Tan cloth interior. OEM Ram Air hood in black. T-Tops. Original 6 speed car, has auto pedals in it now.
- Exterior in very good condition for age. always garage kept and cleans up nice. Interior in good condition.
Weighs 3380# without driver
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01-19-2013, 01:02 PM
#13
A car that heavily modified for sale by a dealer is a red flag.
IMO a TH400 for such a mild build is another red flag.
It does look like a collection of quality parts but without some proof it actually worked and a really convincing story on how it ended up at a dealership I wouldn't want any part of it.
A lot of cars get thrown together with a checkbook and no real knowledge and then never actually work, absent any proof to the contrary I would assume that is what this is.
IMO a TH400 for such a mild build is another red flag.
It does look like a collection of quality parts but without some proof it actually worked and a really convincing story on how it ended up at a dealership I wouldn't want any part of it.
A lot of cars get thrown together with a checkbook and no real knowledge and then never actually work, absent any proof to the contrary I would assume that is what this is.
01-20-2013, 09:51 AM
#18
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NADA value is between $9k(low) and $13k(high) for a '94 T/A with 79000 miles. If the car were totalled out and the insurance company offered you a check, it would be in the neighborhood of $11k for a stock T/A.
So why isn't it worth anywhere close to that again?
IMHO, if everything on the car looks to be in good shape with no unusual or excessive wear in the interior, underneath, etc I would have no problem buying it for that. I'd try to talk them down on price still, but wouldn't hesitate to buy it for what they're asking.
So why isn't it worth anywhere close to that again?
IMHO, if everything on the car looks to be in good shape with no unusual or excessive wear in the interior, underneath, etc I would have no problem buying it for that. I'd try to talk them down on price still, but wouldn't hesitate to buy it for what they're asking.
01-20-2013, 10:36 AM
#20
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
KBB has it for 5300 in excellent condition and 4300 for fair. That's including if the car has "premium wheels" and all the interior amenities. I've talked to my ins. company about mods and they could care less. They base their value off their own resources.