Good Nitrous Cam or Not
04-16-2004, 06:59 PM
#1
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Good Nitrous Cam or Not I just got done installing a tr230 (230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA) I was thinking of spraying a 75-100 shot of wet nitrous. I was wondering if this cam will be fine with the nitrous application or should i keep it N/A.
04-17-2004, 09:00 PM
#5
Originally Posted by tuff
Good motor cam but not a good nitrous cam.It will still work but not as good.You need more exhaust duration.
04-17-2004, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by #41
kk, dont mean to jack your thread or anything, but what exactly makes a cam good for running nitrous?
If we assume that the goal of the nitrous cam is to trade some unusable torque (Limited by tires/suspension/track conditions) for usable horsepower, and open the exhaust valve earlier due to the increased burn rate, then choosing a nitrous cam is easy. You generally look for a cam with a larger exhaust duration then intake duration. It's typically anywhere from 4 - 12 degrees larger.
The choice of your duration difference is determined by your application. If you're only going to spray your motor a couple of times at the track each year, then it would be beneficial to choose a cam that would work better in a N/A situation, as that is where your car will spend most of it's time. If, however, you're building a car that sees more track/trailer time then street time, you can go with a cam that has about 8 - 12 degrees more duration on the exhaust side.
A good nitrous cam would be something like TSP's 231/237 cam, or MTI's 232/236 cam. It would also be advantagous of you to put either one of those cams on a 114 lobe seperation. That is, however, if you're going to spray a lot. If you're only going to put a few bottles through your car a year, you should stick with an N/A cam.
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04-19-2004, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by KingCrapBox
One of the main effects of nitrous is an increased burn rate, and because of this, the exhaust valve opening can occur slightly earlier then in a strict N/A application. Because the burn of nitrous/fuel/air is completed sooner, the pressure inside the cylinder begins to get smaller sooner inside of the combustion chamber, so the exhaust valve can open earlier without a loss of power. To make the exhaust valve open earlier, all you have to do is select a larger exhaust lobe and if you want, add a little lobe seperation angle, perhaps to 114 instead of 112.
If we assume that the goal of the nitrous cam is to trade some unusable torque (Limited by tires/suspension/track conditions) for usable horsepower, and open the exhaust valve earlier due to the increased burn rate, then choosing a nitrous cam is easy. You generally look for a cam with a larger exhaust duration then intake duration. It's typically anywhere from 4 - 12 degrees larger.
The choice of your duration difference is determined by your application. If you're only going to spray your motor a couple of times at the track each year, then it would be beneficial to choose a cam that would work better in a N/A situation, as that is where your car will spend most of it's time. If, however, you're building a car that sees more track/trailer time then street time, you can go with a cam that has about 8 - 12 degrees more duration on the exhaust side.
A good nitrous cam would be something like TSP's 231/237 cam, or MTI's 232/236 cam. It would also be advantagous of you to put either one of those cams on a 114 lobe seperation. That is, however, if you're going to spray a lot. If you're only going to put a few bottles through your car a year, you should stick with an N/A cam.
If we assume that the goal of the nitrous cam is to trade some unusable torque (Limited by tires/suspension/track conditions) for usable horsepower, and open the exhaust valve earlier due to the increased burn rate, then choosing a nitrous cam is easy. You generally look for a cam with a larger exhaust duration then intake duration. It's typically anywhere from 4 - 12 degrees larger.
The choice of your duration difference is determined by your application. If you're only going to spray your motor a couple of times at the track each year, then it would be beneficial to choose a cam that would work better in a N/A situation, as that is where your car will spend most of it's time. If, however, you're building a car that sees more track/trailer time then street time, you can go with a cam that has about 8 - 12 degrees more duration on the exhaust side.
A good nitrous cam would be something like TSP's 231/237 cam, or MTI's 232/236 cam. It would also be advantagous of you to put either one of those cams on a 114 lobe seperation. That is, however, if you're going to spray a lot. If you're only going to put a few bottles through your car a year, you should stick with an N/A cam.
