max power stock t56 m6
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max power stock t56 m6
so ive got a stock t56 with 42k on it that im planning to swap in my s10 this spring with a ls6 turbo engine somewhere in the neighborhood of 600 fwhp. is this trans gonna hold up or take a dump on me? it supposedly has steel shift forks. but what about syncro's and anything else anyone can think of. I hear all kinds of people talking about built to viper specs. what all does that entitle? also clutch recomendations? i was thinking centerforce dual friction.
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some break stock with 300whp, it all depends on how you drive them (suck at it)
strip-If the cars light,and you get some wheel spin, or clutch slip. The stock shafts will hold up to that, I know some cars with 7-800whp and haven't broken any hard parts. But there street cars and just run 17"+ DR and spin at any speed really. The flip side to that, is DR on the car you get some suspension setup good so it hooks, and run a clutch that dosnt slip will be harder on hard parts then slicks I hear. Ive been mid 1.4s on 275 but only making 450whp and never had any hard part damage from power (low).
For over powering parts, I hear its 700-750 people start to tear up gears. And heat is alot a problem with lots of power, and if the car hooks hard and pulls some Gs. A great thing to do is *** a pump to spray fluid on the input cluster, help keep the parts lubed and cool.
strip-If the cars light,and you get some wheel spin, or clutch slip. The stock shafts will hold up to that, I know some cars with 7-800whp and haven't broken any hard parts. But there street cars and just run 17"+ DR and spin at any speed really. The flip side to that, is DR on the car you get some suspension setup good so it hooks, and run a clutch that dosnt slip will be harder on hard parts then slicks I hear. Ive been mid 1.4s on 275 but only making 450whp and never had any hard part damage from power (low).
For over powering parts, I hear its 700-750 people start to tear up gears. And heat is alot a problem with lots of power, and if the car hooks hard and pulls some Gs. A great thing to do is *** a pump to spray fluid on the input cluster, help keep the parts lubed and cool.
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yea i know what you mean there. i snapped an axle last year at the track with 28x11.50x15 slicks and it wasnt pretty.just an op for an upgrade. my plans are to place a micro switch on the shifter housing so that when the trans is in 1st gear it will open a (reborn) evap purge solenoid to vent off the boost refrence so theoreticly it will be N/A in 1st to help with the magic blue smoke coming out of things. has anyone just flat out destroyed one of these from anything other than dead rev'n and dumpin? I know Tremec says 450'# but my NV3500 (300'#rating) has/is holding together fine at 511'# "crank" so i figure there has got to be a factor of safety in there. ????
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Again I think driver ability has a lot to do with the lifespan of a manual transmission and how hard you want to beat on it, I service a 2005 z06 regularly that pushes 500 whp and the trans is stock, mind you its driven by probably the most conservative driver on the road. Theres a really good read somewhere on hear about upgrades to the t56, outlines all the stuff you can do.
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good deal
Again I think driver ability has a lot to do with the lifespan of a manual transmission and how hard you want to beat on it, I service a 2005 z06 regularly that pushes 500 whp and the trans is stock, mind you its driven by probably the most conservative driver on the road. Theres a really good read somewhere on hear about upgrades to the t56, outlines all the stuff you can do.
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so ive got a stock t56 with 42k on it that im planning to swap in my s10 this spring with a ls6 turbo engine somewhere in the neighborhood of 600 fwhp. is this trans gonna hold up or take a dump on me? it supposedly has steel shift forks. but what about syncro's and anything else anyone can think of. I hear all kinds of people talking about built to viper specs. what all does that entitle? also clutch recomendations? i was thinking centerforce dual friction.
At 430rw my "6 speed inc" "stage 4 badass" transmission took a **** on me with hardly any 1/4 passes on it. Took the tail shaft out with it when it gave out.
Now Im making 700-800rw and dont track race it at all and it stays alive a decent amount of miles before needing a refresh.
And for a clutch you'll want something that's really grabby, I found out how stiff my suspension (setup for road racing) was when I put in a Monster stage 5 clutch in my car. Grabbed so hard at the track the wheels were hopping like crazy and it actually shook my exhaust loose!
Hopefully this helps you out some, if you want details on anything just PM me.
-Rams