Adjustable upper A arms worth it?
#7
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I did the whole tubular lower arm thing and the shock mount started buckling. Never again. I ended up getting spherical bushings installed in the stock arms to keep from splitting the bushings and give it better feel. That seems to be the way to go if you're having problem with poly/rubber bushings in the arms.
The adj uppers could help get more negative camber and some more positive castor if you need it. Otherwise the stock upper arms seem fine with new bushings.
The adj uppers could help get more negative camber and some more positive castor if you need it. Otherwise the stock upper arms seem fine with new bushings.
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#8
If you're intending to proceed toward the edge if the range, that's where the adjustables shine.
#10
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Lots of customers want to do uppers and lowers with us. I'm honest with them and tell them that if you're looking to save weight, don't do uppers. You're not going to save any weight, just spend money. If you're a road racer, get the adjustable uppers. If you're looking for more precise movement and better motion, regular ole non-adjustables are good for you!
- Kevin
- Kevin
#12
Lots of customers want to do uppers and lowers with us. I'm honest with them and tell them that if you're looking to save weight, don't do uppers. You're not going to save any weight, just spend money. If you're a road racer, get the adjustable uppers. If you're looking for more precise movement and better motion, regular ole non-adjustables are good for you!
- Kevin
- Kevin
#13
Even if you keep the factory arm length with an adjustable, the rod end will offer the smoothest motion.
We don't offer the full Roto-Joint in our 2311 but do often build Delrin bushings to take the place of poly. This material offers the smoothest and most precise motion in a non-adjustable.
And it is true that the Roto-Joint, in applications available with it, is intended to offer the performance of a rod end with the dampening of a non-metallic bearing system.
ramey