pewter99bird

i do have the v-6 with the 5 speed. I have read a lot about put downs and the wanna-be stuff. Im 35 so speed is not everything! it a cruzer and fun to take on corners.
Now the car does have Pacesetter headers and just the k&n replacement filter. im not out to make 300+hp or anything i just want it to breath better and have it handle better as well.
SO i thought of a cat back and real hi-flow cat, a real cold air intake with a fiberglass ws6 type hood, throddle body spacer, electric water pump, and ignition upgrade.
Suspention i will go after the guy in PA that has the hot set ups for them, and undecided of the wheels either i keep th 16" with 245-50/r16 and paint the factory 5 stars or go with 275-40/r17 and a 5 star or the 10 spoke style.
Alot of all puts down the v-6 but for the way i am, drive, and also it still kicks most rice wanna be rockets (only exhaust and intake done) i can leave them behind me. Thge car smacks about 105-110 in 3rd gear were most people back down about 75-80 (when legal to do).
Thank you for your supportive frendly coments.

AmDWs6

i must say since you want the car to be more drive-able and responsive you don't really need to make a big upgrade e.g. you can just get the cat's removed unless it doesn't pass emission's, port your tb, do some modification's to the exhaust just don't go too high, suspension is a must, hood is just appearance (mostly) although fiberglass = weight reduction, ignition just get the msd wires for now, rim's again is appearance, water pump i really have no comment on that atm lol, now you've ported your tb, you need to get a bigger lid now im not familiar with your lid as for it being v6 im just not sure if it's the same hopefully some1 can get you more details on that, now if you want to actually know how your car is breathing you should know how much cfm is going in and how much is going out, as long as you can get both number's close you'll have a good breather.

pewter99bird

The K&N is full open element (complete cold air kit), i didnt think about porting the t.b. thou. The suspention is a must i know. For is is too sloshy for me. Also it did have the performance group were it has the factory posi( i live on a dirt road and leave 2 tire marks on it from diggin in). i was looking at a 1.25-1.5 inch drop on the springs and bit stiffer shocks, sway bar, and dont forget bout the sub frame conectiors with strut tower bars.

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

I tinkered with my old v6 car. Here's a vid of it vs a gt.


Gt has full suspension and built tranny. My car had a cam, freshened heads and the pace setter headers and y pipe with 4.10 gears also had it tuned. Not bad for a v6. The v6 was fun. It drove good. Just fix it how you want it. You'll be happy. If possible do the work yourself. You'll feel good about it knowing you built it. Good luck

AmDWs6

Those fordies are just a piece of art & that video my friend proves it.

dirt road you say, might want to look at this.
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/store/...roducts_id=140

http://6litereaterdesigns.com/store/...roducts_id=139

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

Okay, you need to go to a V6 site to get in depth information. Try www.fullthrottlev6.com

Now coming from somebody who has been more than ***** deep in a V6 build, some of the things you're looking at are useless and I'll give you some tips.

Find a catback that is of a good quality, I think Hooker and Magnaflow are some of the better ones on the V6's. Mellow without being obnoxiously loud. I have one I pieced together off of Summit, and am happy with mine.

You have a 99 model, so that's the straight throttle body setup. Find a V6 whisper lid, or get the K&N FIPK if you want to spend the money. Free mod is delete the air silencer and eliminate the baffles in the stock lid.

Throttle body spacer is useless, same as the electric water pump (not recommended for full time street duty). Stock ignition coils are excellent, don't go MSD. Get some better wires and NGK TR55 plugs.

I'd recommend the Strano HP7 handling package featuring Konis, his tuned spring and swaybar combination. Get moog replacement bushings for the front end and get a good alignment. You'll want an adjustable panhard bar since you're lowering the car or the rear end will be off center.

Strut tower bars are essentially useless and only for eye candy on our cars. Subframe connectors are an excellent idea.

Nathan C

My daily driver is a 1994 Firebird with the little 3.4 v6, so I would never knock you. Who wants to pay premium gas for a daily driver and have to worry about higher insurance costs all the time. My summer weekend cars are LS1's, but they're not practical to drive and insure year round.

pewter99bird

Wow nicw vid, thats impressive. mow it is strano that i will do busness with. i forgot to mentin the brake and rotor upgrade just replace rotors, pads, stainless steal lnes with D.O.T. 4 fluid(higher heat temp). With the K&N their is no filter lid box just open element and smoth bore tube going to the throddle body. I know to a point it is a waste of money but it has cleaner lines and cleans up above the front of the block area, abouts 5 extra hp, and rather than take all baffles and all out cut chop and whatnot(did it on the 2005 subaru legacy gt i had).
Thank you for tellling me about dont bother with elect water pump and t.b. spacer($400) worth of savings.

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

And here's a clip of mine: