ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Hey guys,

I haven't posted in the conversions section a lot, but I have certainly been lurking around. I have a few specific questions about my swap in my 1976 Trans Am. I haven't posted my build here, but if you want to check it out, look in my signature.

1) I am using a painless universal wiring harness and I need to know if the wire going to the alternator is necessary for "exciting" the alternator?

2) a. How much travel do I need in the clutch master cylinder? I have around 1" which I heard was enough? I am using the DSE clutch bracket.

b. How do I check to see if my clutch has enough travel?

3) What anti-freeze do you run in a swap? I thought that the LS1 used something that was orange, and what I ran in my car with my Pontiac engine was just regular green anti-freeze. Will my stock radiator be able to handle the orange stuff?

I will probably add more questions, but that is all I can think of now.

Thanks,
Ryan

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

1. Check out the pic at the bottom of this post
2a. You'll have to eyeball it, but the clutch master can go all the way down without causing problems. Just be careful not to over-mash the pedal, or you can bend the rod going into the cylinder (which I did). Then you'll have a leak. Not fun. Did you do the drill mod?
2b. This sounds stupid and dangerous, but it works: Bleed the clutch, block the front tires very well, jack the rear axle up and put stands under the axle. Have someone start the car with the clutch and brake depressed, and shift the car into gear. Release the brake, but keep the clutch depressed. If you see the rear tires move at all, you aren't moving enough fluid to disengage the clutch.
3. I used the orange stuff

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Thanks 1981TA, No i didn't do the drill mod. What is that?

I will add the 470 ohm 1/2 watt to the exciter on my new harness?

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

There are several threads here that go over the drill mod. Essentially, you'll drill out the orifice at the master cylinder end of the hose.

You can add the resistor, as it only costs 50 cents, but your harness may have one already. If that's the case, your alternator will not charge very well (like 12 volts). If you leave it out AND your harness does not have one already, your alternator will charge at too high a voltage (like 18 volts). If it goes too long charging too high, the alternator will burn out.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

On the alternator, I'd call Painless and ask them, it should be controlled by the PCM and you wouldn't have to do anything to it. The trans stuff I'll leave to somebody else as I've never had a T56. The antifreeze id Dexcool, Dexron III is transmission fluid, I wouldn't fill the radiator with that! But seriously, I would run the green antifreeze, if you don't have a completely sealed cooling system, Dexcool will turn to mud where air enters the system. And yes, air enters the system when it cools down through the overflow hose, I tried it, it sucked, I switched to the green.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Just re-read your first post, is your Painless harness for the engine or the main one for the car (lights, turn signals ect)?

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for answering my questions LS1nova. I changed my first post to orange stuff, I didn't realize that was trans fluid.

I am running a Painless universal body harness to run my lights, gauges, etc. and I am running a modified 1999 Z28 Camaro harness to run my engine. I just bolted my motor in it's final placement and now I can start wiring everything. I will merge both the harness together. When I was looking through the instructions it mentioned something about an exciter so it got me thinking.

The alternator wire does go straight through to the ECU, do I still need to put in the resistor?

Ryan

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Any other comments?

Rick Speed

iTrader: (55)

If you use a 99 harness and PCM no resistor is needed. I don't use dexcool. I use mopar orange coolant. It doesn't chunk up like dexcool.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Good to know. Thanks.