Stock long block cam
#1
Stock long block cam
Just picked up an 83 Monte after selling my S10. She has a bone stock LT1 with 145K on her and a T56. Seller told me its got 3.73's feels like she does.
I was hoping she didnt have the 5.0!
Already have the ball rolling with bolt on's(pacesetter LT's, 58mm TB, 160 stat, K&N CAI) I was thinking for the cam high 220's maybe low 230's for intake and ex with a 1.6 rr, beehive springs?! I was thinking in the GM847 area.
How well do these perform with a large cam on a stock long block?
Can I trust the stock short block past 6500+rpm with ARP's?
I was hoping she didnt have the 5.0!
Already have the ball rolling with bolt on's(pacesetter LT's, 58mm TB, 160 stat, K&N CAI) I was thinking for the cam high 220's maybe low 230's for intake and ex with a 1.6 rr, beehive springs?! I was thinking in the GM847 area.
How well do these perform with a large cam on a stock long block?
Can I trust the stock short block past 6500+rpm with ARP's?
Last edited by 83MonteLT; 02-10-2013 at 12:19 AM.
#2
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
I had the cc503 on my stock long block with full bolt ons. It would consistently run 12.4 with a 2500 stall on my auto. it would run 11.1 on the 150 hit.
The cc503 is what I would recommend. Hands down its the best self cam for a lt stock long block.
The cc503 is what I would recommend. Hands down its the best self cam for a lt stock long block.
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#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I'd set the limit at 6500 rpm or lower for a bottom end with that many miles on it. The GM847 cam is defintely too much. A cam in the high 2-teens, low 22x's at most would make better sense on the untouched bottom. What are you doing for heads?
ARP fasteners are not magic bullets; they just make sense when you rebuild the bottom end. With a good rebuild, you'd be good for 7000 rpm.
ARP fasteners are not magic bullets; they just make sense when you rebuild the bottom end. With a good rebuild, you'd be good for 7000 rpm.
#5
9-Second Club
iTrader: (1)
There is nothing wrong with the factory crank & rods. The GM 847 cam makes good power. The guy that bought my two year old driven every day 355" short block added the 847 cam and a set of LE heads with a stock intake made 455 rwhp. I really like the Comp 230-236 cam. Have several customers running lower 12s with that one with stock heads. Drives well too.
I wouldn't want to put up with the 847 cam with an automatic car. Too big.
I wouldn't want to put up with the 847 cam with an automatic car. Too big.
#6
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
If the rods are properly reconditioned with good bolts the stock rotating assembly is easily safe at the pcm's 7000ish limit.
Which year T56? If tyhe later one with the .50 OD then you really shoul;d be considering 4.10s especially if you are of the "bigger is better" camp of cam selection. I know that sounds like a lot of gear but I thnk it was the 94+ T56 was .50 OD that soaks up 4.10s wonderfully. The .50 OD with the T56 makes it comparable to a 4L60E with 2.93 gears. Now strictly comparing top gear cruise rpm.
NOBODY is going to tell you 2.93s are right for a A4 most will say 3.73s for an A4 which would be like a 5.22 with the .50 OD. Now that kind of gear would make first useless and be weak with a tiny pinion so I am not suggesting such a thing, just trying to make a point about how 4.10s are pretty mild when behind a double OD with top being .50.
I would do custom on a tighter LSA unless tailpipe testing is a concern which seems doubtful.
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php
The 230/238 110lsa would probably suit you since you want big.
You can buy the cam separate but if you actually tally up everything included there the price is competitive if you want to use all very good components like that. You could "save" some money buying cheaper components but in my experience cheaper components don't grow with your setup as you keep modding so you replace them sooner and they cost a lot more in the longrun even if they don't break.
Which year T56? If tyhe later one with the .50 OD then you really shoul;d be considering 4.10s especially if you are of the "bigger is better" camp of cam selection. I know that sounds like a lot of gear but I thnk it was the 94+ T56 was .50 OD that soaks up 4.10s wonderfully. The .50 OD with the T56 makes it comparable to a 4L60E with 2.93 gears. Now strictly comparing top gear cruise rpm.
NOBODY is going to tell you 2.93s are right for a A4 most will say 3.73s for an A4 which would be like a 5.22 with the .50 OD. Now that kind of gear would make first useless and be weak with a tiny pinion so I am not suggesting such a thing, just trying to make a point about how 4.10s are pretty mild when behind a double OD with top being .50.
I would do custom on a tighter LSA unless tailpipe testing is a concern which seems doubtful.
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php
The 230/238 110lsa would probably suit you since you want big.
You can buy the cam separate but if you actually tally up everything included there the price is competitive if you want to use all very good components like that. You could "save" some money buying cheaper components but in my experience cheaper components don't grow with your setup as you keep modding so you replace them sooner and they cost a lot more in the longrun even if they don't break.