Coil over systems?
#5
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
Are you looking for a front and rear kit or just front? There aren't too many good rear kits out there.
For front two popular ones are QA1 and new one called Viking. Check out the links below for a little info.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=743
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...=7_137_100_347
Let us know what you are looking for. Thanks!
For front two popular ones are QA1 and new one called Viking. Check out the links below for a little info.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=743
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...=7_137_100_347
Let us know what you are looking for. Thanks!
#7
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Amsterdam Ny, the good part
Posts: 3,389
Likes: 0
Received 63 Likes
on
51 Posts
how come we dont need reinforcement plates on our 4th gens but on the 3rd we do ??? i saw in another post about the viking and i said what is it missing , these plates are what i was referring to because i used to have a 3rd gen for about 10 years and just sold it .
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Reno,NV
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm looking for front and rear set up. The reason I want coil overs is because as I understand they are the most versatile and can be adjusted from soft to race stiff in a short period of time. Secondly I live in a very mountainous area and that should explain itself. I'm also not to far from this 40 mile section outside of Auburn, CA, that has 600 turns.
I've heard good things about the KW Variant 3 but $2600 is a bit much for me, considering I'm doing full suspension upgrade as well. from all new bushings everywhere to control arms, driveshaft loop, strut tower brace, and everything in between.
Long story short, I'm looking throw about $30k-$40k at my car.....$20,000 coming from paint interior and stereo...
I'm not looking to have a single application car. I want it to be a grand touring car for 1000+ miles trips come back throw drag radials on and run 10s-11s then come back and go tear up the side of a mountain...and be enjoyable in every day city/hwy driving.... If any of you would like to see my build list pm me. It's a solid $17k in parts before I touch the rear end.
and I think coil overs would aid my goals much more than just upgraded struts springs and shocks.
I've heard good things about the KW Variant 3 but $2600 is a bit much for me, considering I'm doing full suspension upgrade as well. from all new bushings everywhere to control arms, driveshaft loop, strut tower brace, and everything in between.
Long story short, I'm looking throw about $30k-$40k at my car.....$20,000 coming from paint interior and stereo...
I'm not looking to have a single application car. I want it to be a grand touring car for 1000+ miles trips come back throw drag radials on and run 10s-11s then come back and go tear up the side of a mountain...and be enjoyable in every day city/hwy driving.... If any of you would like to see my build list pm me. It's a solid $17k in parts before I touch the rear end.
and I think coil overs would aid my goals much more than just upgraded struts springs and shocks.
#9
TECH Senior Member
I'm looking for front and rear set up. The reason I want coil overs is because as I understand they are the most versatile and can be adjusted from soft to race stiff in a short period of time. Secondly I live in a very mountainous area and that should explain itself. I'm also not to far from this 40 mile section outside of Auburn, CA, that has 600 turns.
I've heard good things about the KW Variant 3 but $2600 is a bit much for me, considering I'm doing full suspension upgrade as well. from all new bushings everywhere to control arms, driveshaft loop, strut tower brace, and everything in between.
Long story short, I'm looking throw about $30k-$40k at my car.....$20,000 coming from paint interior and stereo...
I'm not looking to have a single application car. I want it to be a grand touring car for 1000+ miles trips come back throw drag radials on and run 10s-11s then come back and go tear up the side of a mountain...and be enjoyable in every day city/hwy driving.... If any of you would like to see my build list pm me. It's a solid $17k in parts before I touch the rear end.
and I think coil overs would aid my goals much more than just upgraded struts springs and shocks.
I've heard good things about the KW Variant 3 but $2600 is a bit much for me, considering I'm doing full suspension upgrade as well. from all new bushings everywhere to control arms, driveshaft loop, strut tower brace, and everything in between.
Long story short, I'm looking throw about $30k-$40k at my car.....$20,000 coming from paint interior and stereo...
I'm not looking to have a single application car. I want it to be a grand touring car for 1000+ miles trips come back throw drag radials on and run 10s-11s then come back and go tear up the side of a mountain...and be enjoyable in every day city/hwy driving.... If any of you would like to see my build list pm me. It's a solid $17k in parts before I touch the rear end.
and I think coil overs would aid my goals much more than just upgraded struts springs and shocks.
Anyway, the KW coilovers are really the only "off the shelf" coilovers for handling for these cars. There are also race bilstiens and penskies, but those have to be custom valved (which is not a bad thing, you just have to know what you want).
The others (like QA1s, Afco, Strange) are drag shocks/coilovers, stay away from them as they will ruin your goal completely.
Now if you can't bite the bullet for the other coilovers and you are still dead set on getting some, another option is running ground control coilover sleeves over your shocks.
That being said there is nothing "special" about height adjustable coilovers, they are just like any other shock/spring out there except you can adjust height (which you need an alignment anytime you make an adjustment anyway).
Something like the Koni SA/strano spring setup will exceed your expectations, and leave you with a corner carver like you wouldn't believe.
While im at it, here are some things to consider, with addition to the above.
Strano swaybars (lightweight, superbly balanced - unlike most other swaybars)
Fays2 watts link - rids you of the PHB setup, adjustable roll center for dialing in balance.
RUBBER bushings only (poly will bind in certain areas like control arms)
Full length torque arm (if you go aftermarket, you don't have to for handling) - a short torque arm can induce brake hop.
NO drilled rotors - you're asking for cracks with no performance benifit
Thats really it, most other parts will do little to nothing for handling (Ive got them, I can vouch first hand).
#10
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
how come we dont need reinforcement plates on our 4th gens but on the 3rd we do ??? i saw in another post about the viking and i said what is it missing , these plates are what i was referring to because i used to have a 3rd gen for about 10 years and just sold it .
The 3rd gen cars are strut cars and the spring mounts independently to the lower a-arm and k-member. Two different animals.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
#11
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Reno,NV
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow... Going to be one hell of a build. What color are you going with?
Anyway, the KW coilovers are really the only "off the shelf" coilovers for handling for these cars. There are also race bilstiens and penskies, but those have to be custom valved (which is not a bad thing, you just have to know what you want).
The others (like QA1s, Afco, Strange) are drag shocks/coilovers, stay away from them as they will ruin your goal completely.
Now if you can't bite the bullet for the other coilovers and you are still dead set on getting some, another option is running ground control coilover sleeves over your shocks.
That being said there is nothing "special" about height adjustable coilovers, they are just like any other shock/spring out there except you can adjust height (which you need an alignment anytime you make an adjustment anyway).
Something like the Koni SA/strano spring setup will exceed your expectations, and leave you with a corner carver like you wouldn't believe.
While im at it, here are some things to consider, with addition to the above.
Strano swaybars (lightweight, superbly balanced - unlike most other swaybars)
Fays2 watts link - rids you of the PHB setup, adjustable roll center for dialing in balance.
RUBBER bushings only (poly will bind in certain areas like control arms)
Full length torque arm (if you go aftermarket, you don't have to for handling) - a short torque arm can induce brake hop.
NO drilled rotors - you're asking for cracks with no performance benifit
Thats really it, most other parts will do little to nothing for handling (Ive got them, I can vouch first hand).
Anyway, the KW coilovers are really the only "off the shelf" coilovers for handling for these cars. There are also race bilstiens and penskies, but those have to be custom valved (which is not a bad thing, you just have to know what you want).
The others (like QA1s, Afco, Strange) are drag shocks/coilovers, stay away from them as they will ruin your goal completely.
Now if you can't bite the bullet for the other coilovers and you are still dead set on getting some, another option is running ground control coilover sleeves over your shocks.
That being said there is nothing "special" about height adjustable coilovers, they are just like any other shock/spring out there except you can adjust height (which you need an alignment anytime you make an adjustment anyway).
Something like the Koni SA/strano spring setup will exceed your expectations, and leave you with a corner carver like you wouldn't believe.
While im at it, here are some things to consider, with addition to the above.
Strano swaybars (lightweight, superbly balanced - unlike most other swaybars)
Fays2 watts link - rids you of the PHB setup, adjustable roll center for dialing in balance.
RUBBER bushings only (poly will bind in certain areas like control arms)
Full length torque arm (if you go aftermarket, you don't have to for handling) - a short torque arm can induce brake hop.
NO drilled rotors - you're asking for cracks with no performance benifit
Thats really it, most other parts will do little to nothing for handling (Ive got them, I can vouch first hand).
Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. I guess KW Variant 3s are my answer. The only this car isnt getting is a new chassis or a new body. I mean my body is dentless and flawless except paint.
I plan on painting it cyber gray metallic with sapphire blue 69 style yenko stripes with the Ultra Z hood with matte black inlet scoop, and racing stripes from the hood opening over the fiberglass targa top down to the end of the sport style wing....I'm also adding 18X10 Forgestar CF5 sapphires.... Custom interior and custom sound system. my horse power and torque goals are 550+ all motor. I can post my build list if anyone would like to see it