Colbear96z

I'm wondering if anybody has bleed the slave from the bleeder on side of tranny with a mityvac? My problems started when I did the drill mod a week back. I performed the drill mod, flusched with brand new dot 3 fluid, tried the traditional way of bleeding, with no luck. Bought a mityvac and literally the clutch was bleed in under a minute. I though everything was good, I took it out for a test drive, shifted great. Had nice and smooth shifts at WOT. I take it too the track next day/ first ever track day for me. And the first run I had the clutch pedal stuck to the floor. 😡😡😡 the pedal has been softer then normal since, and sticks the floor. Yesterday I poped the hood to check the fluid and to bleed again, and the fluid looks like old motor oil, from just a week??!i went and got some synthetic dot 4 fluid, did the turkey baster method and put the new dot 4 fluid in. The clutch was nice and firm after bleeding. But this morning the clutch is softer now?! I'm stumped on this, I'm thinking the master is about shot? Bit how can that be when it was fine before the drill mod? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Colbear96z

Oh and I know about drilling a hole in the floorboard to get better access to the bleeder, just wondering if anyone has done it with a mityvac and had enough space

Colbear96z

Anyone?

cbbass123

sounds like you need a new master or slave. Remove the line on the slave and try pushing the clutch pedal in. If it remains solid hard then its possible the slave is the culprit. Did you bench bleed the master before you put it back on?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I assume that you haven't seen any fluid leaks under the car or on the fire-wall correct? As noted above, you can check the master by disconnecting the line that feeds the slave and applying low pressure to the pedal. If the pedal drops you know it is the Master. You can use the Mighty-Vac with or without having a hole cut in the tunnel. Having one makes it easier to get the line connected though. You can also use a remote bleeder to aid in this purpose (these are more easily installed with the trans off though...). Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

Colbear96z

Thanks guys, yes I bench bleed the master before I hooked it back into the slave. I went ahead and drilled the hole in the tunnel and pumped and bleed a hole bottle of brand new dot 4. The clutch feels much better, but gets kinda soft at times. And I have like a inch or soo on the pedal at the top. I'm gonna do what yal said and unhook it a press the pedal and see what happens

Colbear96z

Oh a no I haven't seen any leaks under the car.

Colbear96z

Well I bought a new master just incase. Unplugged the line going to the slave an the pedal fell to the floor. Guess that was was the problem. About to put new master in.

Colbear96z

Ok so I bench bleed the new master( got from advance auto), got it on in about 30 min, stuck a mityvac on it, had it bleed in secs. Took it out for a spin, had one wot run, shifted great 1-2 2-3, them on the 3-4 shift it stuck to the floor kinda. Clutch felt great before this, nice a firm, and no dead space in the clutch up top. Now the clutch pedal feels great at times, and sometimes a lil soft with a in or so of dead space, don't kno what to do now.

slow ride 02

Free bump.....

Did you figure it out?

Colbear96z

That new master failed, they gave me a new one, but still Dosent feel right. Saving up to replace everything, slave, master, tick speed bleeder, and since I'm in there a spec clutch. It's drivable but Dosent feel right, so I just parked it, don't wanna mess up anything in the trans.

slow ride 02

I am in the same boat bro! I have been reading and bleeding all day! The more I read, the more I think that we need to replace everything and maybe look into a QT bellhousing or vent the stock one.