slow ride 02

So, torque arms long or short and why? Street/strip car making about 475 hp to the tires, I want as little as possible road noise. and Mid Western, UMI or Spohn?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Typically you want to use a long style for a street/auto x car. The short arm can induce brake hop under hard braking because of the leverage point. I asked the same question when I did my suspension.

I went with the UMI adjustable long T/A w/ the relocation crossmember. I'm very happy with it. With the relocation crossmember you can change in your instant center to help transfer more weight to the rear tires. I have the I/C on the highest adjustment and have no problems with brake hop.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

This is exactly correctly. The long arms work much better for street and any type to autox.

Original poster- what exhaust are you running on the car?

Thanks for considering UMI!

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Short arms give you alot of anti squat for really good traction under accelleration. Unfortunately you get the same amount of "bad" when it comes to braking. Results in less braking power and more induced brake hop. This is not a big deal for drag racing since you don't have to use your brakes as hard as in autox/road race.

On another hand, drag racers who make big power around 500-600+ seem to prefer the long arm. I don't fully understand how it works. I think since they have a lot of power, the longer arm has a better advantage to balancing the weight under launching. They have enough power to actually pick up the front end more and use it to their advantage for more traction at the rear wheels. In this case the short arm is only pushing up on the back end of the car.

slow ride 02

I have the Kooks LT's and Y-pipe for now. Might go to the Kooks TD's. I had ordered your short arm for the Kooks (2201), but put it on hold, was thinking about the other one with the drop down mount (2203). But now I am thinking about the long arm. Please advise...

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

If you decide to go with Kook's duals you will want #2203 with the drop down in it to clear. It will clear both set ups.

The long arm, #2205 will clear any and all exhaust systems... even with a relocation kit.

If I can help anymore please ask. Thanks!
Ryan

slow ride 02

So what I get out of this is, for street car that wants to do some auto-cross and some drags, use the stock lenght arm? Whats the pros and cons of using the relocation bracket on the long arm?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

You are correct. Pro's of using the relocation bracket are;

1. Takes the arm off the back of the transmission which in extreme situations can break the trans.

2. You are able to change the instant center of the car.

Con's.

The only two I have ever read about is more NVH and problems with routing the exhaust(depending on your setup) However I know UMI sells different brackets to help eliminate that problem.

slow ride 02

What is NVH?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Noise
Vibration
Harshness

slow ride 02

Got ya! So what is your personal experence with the relocated long arm and NVH?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I love it. I didn't notice any more NVH. The adjustability is great. It's a very nice piece.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yep, this is pretty much dead on.

MikeFSKSpeed

iTrader: (37)

You cannot beat UMI products, I have alot of their products in stock and nothing but happy customers who have used them.

slow ride 02

Ok LilJay,

Last question (I hope). After you spent your $550.00, did you notice any difference? Like lower 60ft times? And I see that you have the adj one. How often do you change your pinon angle after you get it set up?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I haven't had it to the track since it's all been together. Problems with the valvetrain and clutch kept me from taking it. I will be taking it this spring as I have finally got the car lined out.

After moving the I/C all the way up and setting my pinon angle at -2 degrees I'm very happy with it. Even on street tires the rear of the car sits down and the traction is much improved on the street.

Once you set your pinon angle you shouldn't have to change it unless you are experimenting with different angles. If you change your I/C you will have to recheck the pinon angle, as with using relocation brackets. I decided where I was going to leave everything at then set my pinon angle.

After I set my pinon angle I used some blue loctite on the the threads before tightening up the jamb nuts. I would suggest doing this on any adjustable suspension component. The blue loctite gives a little more insurance the jamb nuts won't come loose. It's good to get into the habit of periodically checking the jamb nuts to prevent any damage to the components or worse.

I hope this reply helps and I'm sorry I don't have any A/B comparison data for you at the moment.