Posidon

as above i need to do some suspension work on my 2001 v6 camaro the car is stock and will be sold soon so don't want to go mad with costs and searching the forum for i will be upgrading to bilstein slp shock absorbers and then i get lost on what to do after that i am thinking changing all the bushing to moog bushing and getting the bmr tubular lower control arms with rubber bushing as well as a ss way bar and linking's please give me your thoughts on this and any other ideas for sensible upgrades i am also probably limited in who i can deal with because i live in the uk. thanks for the help

JD_AMG

Ok I gotta ask, if you are selling the car soon why spend more money on it with mods? You won't be getting that money back... Id honestly leave it stock, save your money and sell it.
But if you are dead set on some mods, then your list isn't far off track. What do you want to improve exactly? Im guessing handling?

DOC-Z

iTrader: (2)

If doing suspension work is ABSOLUTELY a MUST, then you could upgrade. HOWEVER, if you are only going to sell the car, there are much better things you could spend a bunch of quid on. However, I will post MY OPINION on what you COULD do. However, I am going to use common U.S. terminology for various parts. I will add links to help illustrate as to which parts I'm referring to, being there MAY be different terminology on your side of the pond.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, I just don't know what you may call something in your neck of the world. Example: Bonnet (U.K.) = Hood (U.S.). So please DO NOT take what I say as you being a simpleton.

.....


Depending on WHY you have to do suspension modifications, if I had to replace a Sway Bar (torsion bar), I would upgrade to an WS-6 or SS variant (the underpinnings are the same on Camaro's and Firebird / Trans Am). Since you're already going to be working in this area, I would also upgrade the end links. Chances are, they are pretty rusted and will not come off easily.

(http://www.jegs.com/i/Prothane/311/19-409-BL/10002/-1)

If you decide to swap out to stiffer/stronger Trailing arms, you WILL need other parts to eliminate wheel hop upon acceleration. You can TRY various parts to eliminate this. Most use an adjustable Torque Arm, Polyurethane Transmission mounts and Trailing arm relocation brackets. As to which part I am referring to, the torque arm is the part which goes from the Transmission to the rear differential. and is held onto the rear differential by 2 bolts that are at least 8 to 10 inches (or 20 to 25 centimeters) long. Most guy's use "SPOHN" Adj. Tq. Arms, but are made by several company's (such as UMI, BMR, QA1, SLP - a.k.a. Street Legal Performance - and so on).

Adjustable Torque Arms:
http://www.pfyc.com/FB4005.html

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=130

The Trailing Arm is located in front of the rear tire on each side and attaches from the body mount to the wheel hub. If you are going to eventually lower the car's suspension with UMI, BMR, Eibach or other Springs, then this is a MUST HAVE PART.

Aftermarket trailing arms:

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...84570/10002/-1

http://autofabcart.net/afrc-doublead...larms-1-1.aspx

You can get relocation brackets to help with wheel hop as well, but this may OR MAY NOT WORK, depending on what option you decide to take and which way you start to upgrade your suspension.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-style/bolt-in


When I changed out my Trailing arms, I put on WS-6 Trans Am Sway Bars and End links. I did get some wheel hop. I managed to eliminate this by using the weld in Relocation Brackets I parsed in a link above. I still get some mild hop if the ground is wet and I'm burning the clutch stop and go traffic. Otherwise, my car handles pretty OK.

Lastly, here is a link to an LS1Tech post on eliminating wheel hop:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...wheel-hop.html


NOTE TO EVERYONE: Feel free to critique or point out other things which can be done to improve the suspension to V6 F-Bodies.

SleepNT.A-SwapNS.10

Check out Founders Suspension. By far the cheapest dollar wise, and from all that I've read, just a sticker away from being BMR and the others. I just ordered double adjustable lower control arms with extentions, dbl. adj. panhard bar, upper panhard bar mount, subframe connectors, and strut tower, all rod/poly for the most part for $570 shipped. They get here tomorrow. Strut tower is more for looks, but for 50 bucks, I had to add it. Try some eibach sportline drop springs with KYB shock all around. You're not going to put down alot of HP (horsepower) so I'm sure this setup would be sufficiant for you. I agree though that if you plan on selling, sell as is. Put some local auto store "Gold" shocks all around and call it a day. Save the upgrades for a keeper.

Posidon

my main issue with the car is i am probably going to be stuck with it for another year till i get 2 years no claims and can get something with a v8 so anything that can be done to make driving it better is a good thing the last owner clearly had no clue about cars and thought servicing was enough i have to do sway bar linkage and change some bushing at the least feels like the rear end wants to do the opposite to the front and high speeds can feel "interesting". also i can not lower the car i can not move with out coming across speed bumps and pot holes. i am thinking for now re doing the bushing where it is worn and adding subframe connectors after further research will firm things up nicely and allow me keep some cash by for the motorbike i am after.

BlackBetty99SS

iTrader: (1)

He said quid.....sorry I'm a simpleton lol