EAT-N-AIR

iTrader: (2)

Hey so I just got done building my ls1. the car has a Ls7 clutch with only about 30 thousand miles. I replaced to slave cylinder before the first start up and everything else was put back on the car. While driving the car normal the clutch operates perfectly fine BUT at wot when I shift the pedal stiffens up and stays about an inch off the floor... while it does this the car wont let me shift into any gear and if I try its just grinds. After I pump the pedal about 3 times the clutch works again.. Anyone have this problem or know what could be the cause The master cylinder was done 2 years ago with the clutch and I just got done bleeding the slave for the second time today and the car still does it. some people talked about putting shims or something idk


any tips to help me please this problem is buggin the hell out of me..

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

did you do a search? This is a very common problem with lots of tips out there. You can look up 'drill mod' or if you want to fix it right, look up 'tick clutch master cylinder.'

It's not your clutch or your slave.

EAT-N-AIR

iTrader: (2)

Thank you after doing some searches do you think the tick performance master cylinder is work it or just a stock one with the drill mod?

quickkris2006

iTrader: (8)

I had the same issue with my gto.. finally said Screw it and took the transmission out replaced my clutch,flywheel,pressure plate, pilot bearing and slave.. put all new fluids in the trans and fresh fluid for the clutch.. my pilot bearing was completely shot to hell ... but now it feels like a brand new trans.. next on my list is the tick master cylinder. I have a lot of fbody friends with the tick and they all say one of the best mods they have ever done...

mikh338

iTrader: (16)

if you have not done the drill mod yet, do that first. i have that done to my car and never had an issue at 7k rpm shifts with stock master cylinder

EAT-N-AIR

iTrader: (2)

Ok guys so i just installed the tick master cylinder and bled the clutch. the car drives smoot but right after i got on it the clutch sunk to the floor and i had to pump it a couple times for the car to go back into gear same problem WTFFFFFFF!!!!!!!

Alex L.

iTrader: (16)

I had the same problem with my spec after about 30k miles. replaced all but the master with Monster stuff and the issue went away. I suspect it was the pressure plate.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

:facepalm:

Yet again, another person with an LS1/LS6/LS7 clutch with a self adjusting pressure plate complaining of not being able to shift at high RPMs and is told that he needs to get a Tick Master Cylinder to fix it. It's not the hydraulics (unless they are broken of course), IT'S THE GM SELF ADJUSTING PRESSURE PLATE!

I've read so many threads all over the forums with guys getting the LS7 clutch and not being able to shift at high rpms, clutch pedal sinking to the floor, getting locked out of 3rd and 4th (I understand there are plenty of guys without problems as well, it's so hit and miss it's a little disturbing). And it's the same story with people who have the stock LS1/LS6 pressure plates as well. Everyone tells them to get the Tick master and I see thread after thread with people saying they got the Tick and they are still getting locked out of gear.

Guy's the Tick unit is awesome. It's adjustable and I agree it does improve shifting. But if you have a LS1/LS6/LS7 clutch and are getting locked out of gear at high rpm you need to realize it's the pressure plate. Everyone gets a new slave and still have problems, get a new master, still have problems, do the drill mod, still have problems. Then they get a clutch besides the stock one like a Monster clutch and it cures it!

My brother and I just went through this. We both have had nothing but problems with shifting at high rpms with the stock clutch. Constantly getting locked out of 3rd and 4th when shiftingclose to redline. Now he has a stage 2 Monster with stock hydraulics and bangs through gears at redline like nothing and never misses a shift.

If I keep seeing these threads I'm gonna make a push to change the clutch sticky. The same ol'...

-Change your master cylinder, if you still get locked out of gear...
-Change your slave, if you still get locked out of gear...
-Do the drill mod, if you still get locked out of gear...
-Buy the Tick Master cylinder, if you still get locked out of gear...
-Buy a new clutch

isn't working.

X R8TED

iTrader: (1)

i had the same problem also but just replaced my stock clutch with a monster and it went away...

cbbass123

OP, how much power are you making?? You might be pushing the limits of the ls7 clutch. The ls7 clutch is self adjusting so sometimes when swapping in a tick master that pushes more fluid, the ls7 clutch don't like it when it is already self adjusted to a stock setup. Many have problems with that alone.

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

Completely agree. I did get the Tick MC and it did help somewhat, but didn't cure my problems. I'm going to pick up my car with the Monster Stage 3 today, and after the break in period, I think I will be much happier.

badamn

Yeah i don't know why this is'nt common knowledge around here by now?The LS adjustable clutches always make your clutch pedal spongy.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

The clutch is dead.

Give us a call and we'll get you taken care of, stop screwing around with a factory clutch, it's just not going to take abuse.

camaroman74

I have a 2000 SS and when i speed shift it it stick my buddy told me to buy a good cluch kit and that would fix it or shims will help

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Best thing to do is replace the clutch with a quality aftermarket unit. It will take care of those problems. Our clutches do not require shims.

EAT-N-AIR

iTrader: (2)

thank you monster clutches I did find out it was the pressure plate
after installing the a monster clutch system this problem is now gone with 500+ hp at the wheels

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

So even a LS7 clutch would not be a good clutch for something aorund 450whp+