Just installed Monster LVL 3. Shaking/banging. HELP.
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just installed Monster LVL 3. Shaking/banging. HELP.
Okay, so like the title says, just installed the Monster. So far, no problems with it. Here's my question/issue. Taking off from a dead stop, just day to day driving, if I don't launch semi hard, the car starts shaking and I get a loud banging. My buddy who did the work in his shop, said that when the car got dropped off, the two nuts attaching the UMI torque arm to the rear diff were missing. I've had this shaking/banging issue before, but not nearly as bad or as loud, and only at really low rpm/crappy take offs.
My theory is, that because the TA isn't properly secure (he installed a single nut he had laying around, but I'm guessing it isn't very tight.) The rear end is twisting and causing it to shake and jump, which is then causing my headers, which are within 1/2" of my subframe, to contact the subframe. At least, this is what I am hoping, so I know how to fix it.
What do you guys think?
I only drove the car about 15 miles back home and parked it. I plan on working on it first thing in the morning.
C.
My theory is, that because the TA isn't properly secure (he installed a single nut he had laying around, but I'm guessing it isn't very tight.) The rear end is twisting and causing it to shake and jump, which is then causing my headers, which are within 1/2" of my subframe, to contact the subframe. At least, this is what I am hoping, so I know how to fix it.
What do you guys think?
I only drove the car about 15 miles back home and parked it. I plan on working on it first thing in the morning.
C.
Last edited by Carlisle; 02-17-2013 at 04:38 PM.
#2
TECH Resident
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: albany ny
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, so like the title says, just installed the Monster. So far, no problems with it. Here's my question/issue. Taking off from a dead stop, just day to day driving, if I don't launch semi hard, the car starts shaking and I get a loud banging. My buddy who did the work in his shop, said that when the car got dropped off, the two nuts attaching the UMI torque arm to the rear diff were missing. I've had this shaking/banging issue before, but not nearly as bad or as loud, and only at really low rpm/crappy take offs.
My theory is, that because the TA isn't properly secure (he installed a single nut he had laying around, but I'm guessing it isn't very tight.) The rear end is twisting and causing it to shake and jump, which is then causing my headers, which are within 1/2" of my subframe, to contact the subframe. At least, this is what I am hoping, so I know how to fix it.
What do you guys think?
I only drove the car about 15 miles back home and parked it. I plan on working on it first thing in the morning.
C.
My theory is, that because the TA isn't properly secure (he installed a single nut he had laying around, but I'm guessing it isn't very tight.) The rear end is twisting and causing it to shake and jump, which is then causing my headers, which are within 1/2" of my subframe, to contact the subframe. At least, this is what I am hoping, so I know how to fix it.
What do you guys think?
I only drove the car about 15 miles back home and parked it. I plan on working on it first thing in the morning.
C.
#3
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
holy crap man lol, yes i can almost guarentee you its because those nuts are missing. i blew my rear end to a million pieces this past summer and right before it blew the same thing started happening i heard this really loud banging then one VERY loud bang and shaking, so i limped it back home and first noticed those 2 nuts missing. i dont know if it caused bad pinion angles to shred and bend everything to hell but i would get those on right away. after my new s60 swap lets just say ive been checking to make sure those 2 nuts holding the torque arm to the rear end are on and are very tight lol
I can take off at a higher rpm, and not have any banging at all.
On an off note, the Monster clutch is great so far. It's still in it's break in period (obviously), but it's like stock when it comes to pedal feel. I need to adjust the master cylinder (I have Tick's MC), and fix the TA issue still.
C.
#4
TECH Resident
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: albany ny
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Haha damn. Okay, I'll get new hardware first thing tomorrow. And some lockwashers/loctite. I was planning on it anyway, and I don't think I've done any damage to the rear yet, just had to get it home.
I can take off at a higher rpm, and not have any banging at all.
On an off note, the Monster clutch is great so far. It's still in it's break in period (obviously), but it's like stock when it comes to pedal feel. I need to adjust the master cylinder (I have Tick's MC), and fix the TA issue still.
C.
I can take off at a higher rpm, and not have any banging at all.
On an off note, the Monster clutch is great so far. It's still in it's break in period (obviously), but it's like stock when it comes to pedal feel. I need to adjust the master cylinder (I have Tick's MC), and fix the TA issue still.
C.
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NOT FIXED. Got hardware for the TA, the one nut that was on there was good and tight, went and got the second and installed. Then started messing around with the pinion angle. It was at about -1*, so I put it to -2. Test drove it, I thought it helped. So I went anther half. Nothing. Went another half. Nothing. Did this two more times, and it didn't help at all. Zero'd it out, nothing. Went positive just to see, +1 the +2, no good. I jacked the car up to see if maybe where the TA mounts to the tranny was loose or something crazy, nope, it was good.
If I baby the hell out of the clutch, I can avoid the banging sound. It still shakes more than it should, but I have the ride the heck out of the clutch. On a normal take off it shakes and bangs. I set it back to -2* cause that's where I felt it was best at.
I DO HAVE VIDEO, and will post it on the original post.
*Can't get the video to load.
Help please.
C.
If I baby the hell out of the clutch, I can avoid the banging sound. It still shakes more than it should, but I have the ride the heck out of the clutch. On a normal take off it shakes and bangs. I set it back to -2* cause that's where I felt it was best at.
I DO HAVE VIDEO, and will post it on the original post.
*Can't get the video to load.
Help please.
C.
Last edited by Carlisle; 02-17-2013 at 04:41 PM.
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
I remember test driving a Trans Am years ago. That was my only experience with clutch chatter. Everytime I started slipping the clutch to take off from a stop the whole car would shutter and shake and make a banging sound. Have no idea what type of clutch it was but it was similar to what you are describing.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Resident
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: albany ny
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
idk man but it could deff be something with your ring and pinion. when mine made those noises and blew up right after it looked lke a bomb went off in my rear end. i was missing half the teeth on my gears, my center pin whihc is billet steel and like 1.5" thick was bent like hell so bad that i couldnt even get the c clips off to remove the axles and my posi unit was just annihilated. so i dont think clutch chatter would be making that much of noise, i have the same clutch and it doesnt really chatter if you drive it right...and if it does chatter it is nothing like that. i dont know how good your driving skills are either lol so i guess anything could be possible
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I remember test driving a Trans Am years ago. That was my only experience with clutch chatter. Everytime I started slipping the clutch to take off from a stop the whole car would shutter and shake and make a banging sound. Have no idea what type of clutch it was but it was similar to what you are describing.
Selling the car is ganna be harder now haha.
C.
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
idk man but it could deff be something with your ring and pinion. when mine made those noises and blew up right after it looked lke a bomb went off in my rear end. i was missing half the teeth on my gears, my center pin whihc is billet steel and like 1.5" thick was bent like hell so bad that i couldnt even get the c clips off to remove the axles and my posi unit was just annihilated. so i dont think clutch chatter would be making that much of noise, i have the same clutch and it doesnt really chatter if you drive it right...and if it does chatter it is nothing like that. i dont know how good your driving skills are either lol so i guess anything could be possible
Good thing I don't have a girlfriend, she'd hate riding in this thing haha.
C.
#12
TECH Resident
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: albany ny
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found a few videos of chatter on youtube and it's almost identical to what mine sounds like. I think my tranny mounts might be contributing to the noise as well. But I'm pretty sure its chatter. I set the pinion angle and made sure everything was installed right. Not much more I can do on that front.
Good thing I don't have a girlfriend, she'd hate riding in this thing haha.
C.
Good thing I don't have a girlfriend, she'd hate riding in this thing haha.
C.
#14
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And I have stock mounts.
C.
#15
Chatter is worse when you are taking off slowly slipping the clutch. The performance clutch discs with a higher friction material and little to no Marcel spring make the chatter more noticeable under those conditions.
#17
that would be my guess. Clutches with non organic disc facings do hold better but the other side is they can "chatter" especially during the 500 mi break in period and also if they are a "puc" disc vs full face
part of the trade off when getting a more aggressive clutch. After break-in chatter should diminish but more to the point your engagement technique will need to adjust (rpm/release)
this chatter will exagerate any lose suspension parts that would make noise along with anything else that "hits" when the drivetrain shakes.
part of the trade off when getting a more aggressive clutch. After break-in chatter should diminish but more to the point your engagement technique will need to adjust (rpm/release)
this chatter will exagerate any lose suspension parts that would make noise along with anything else that "hits" when the drivetrain shakes.
#18
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Couldn't give you an exact rpm, I know the chatter usually happens the worst at about 1100rpm on the way down, after I begin taking off.
Ya I did a bit more reading on puc clutches etc, and that seems to be the general consensus. I drove around all day today, burnt over a half tank of gas, just getting use to driving it. I've gotten to the point where I can take off with absolutely no chatter, and still have it be a semi normal launch. With my exhaust it's a bit louder than the general public is use to haha. I only get it to chatter when I do a real sloppy take off, usually on some sort of slope, and when I try and go too fast (release the clutch to quick). I still am going to rebleed the clutch, my buddy who installed the monster (I usually do all the work to my car myself, but it's winter and cold and I'm not that motivated) bled it, but I don't think he did it for long enough, or maybe after a bit of use I worked loose some air. Luckily I installed a speed bleeder, to make life easier. Also am going to readjust the master cylinder, thing engages RIGHT off the floor and kind of annoys me.
He (my friend) looked at the car today when I brought it by for him to look at, and he's sure it's chatter, but the banging noise he thinks is either my exhaust or my headers hitting the floor/tunnel. Only does it on the bad chatter. I'm running TSP 1 7/8" LT's and custom 2.5" true duals, there isn't a whole lot of room. He also wants me to get poly tran mounts, he thinks mine are worn out. Can I get those from a local store? Or do I need to order from the net?
C.
that would be my guess. Clutches with non organic disc facings do hold better but the other side is they can "chatter" especially during the 500 mi break in period and also if they are a "puc" disc vs full face
part of the trade off when getting a more aggressive clutch. After break-in chatter should diminish but more to the point your engagement technique will need to adjust (rpm/release)
this chatter will exagerate any lose suspension parts that would make noise along with anything else that "hits" when the drivetrain shakes.
part of the trade off when getting a more aggressive clutch. After break-in chatter should diminish but more to the point your engagement technique will need to adjust (rpm/release)
this chatter will exagerate any lose suspension parts that would make noise along with anything else that "hits" when the drivetrain shakes.
He (my friend) looked at the car today when I brought it by for him to look at, and he's sure it's chatter, but the banging noise he thinks is either my exhaust or my headers hitting the floor/tunnel. Only does it on the bad chatter. I'm running TSP 1 7/8" LT's and custom 2.5" true duals, there isn't a whole lot of room. He also wants me to get poly tran mounts, he thinks mine are worn out. Can I get those from a local store? Or do I need to order from the net?
C.