Clutch advice for my bird
02-17-2013, 01:04 PM
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Launching!
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Clutch advice for my bird A little new to the ls world, and mods that actually go fast lol. Was wondering what clutch I should run on my car, '99 stock heads and intake, ill be finishing my work on it soon with a 224r cam pacesetter long tubes and a 150 shot of juice. Car should run high 11s once I fix the trans, would anybody trust a ram to hold that power? I really don't think I need to spend $800 on a monster just yet. Oh and I also want it to be relatively drive able. Thanks for your input
02-17-2013, 01:15 PM
#2
Monster is not $800. WS6store.com. Stage 2 is just out of your range as it's rated for 550rwhp which is just about what you'll be at with bolt ons, cam, and 150 shot. Since you look like you hit the track often a Stage 3 will be right up your alley. 700rwhp rating, made for the track, only $629 and free shipping.
02-17-2013, 02:49 PM
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Thanks for that site I like that price a lot better. Only thing I don't like about the level 3 is its a six puck. I had one in a Honda a couple years ago (it may have been unsprung) but I hated driving it and have heard they don't last long at all. I think my car will make a little over 500 corrected (I'm at I think 5000 elevation) so I feel like a level 2 should hold it. I'm just afraid the snatching force a six puck could make might break my 10 bolt and I'm trying to hold off on that awhile
02-17-2013, 03:06 PM
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I hear ya on the rear end. I got a recent quote for a 9" rear from MWC with a wavetrac rear for $4500 shipped. There is no way I could just up and drop nearly $5k on a rear. I'm gonna end up having to pull a rear off of an f-body at pick and pull for $160 if mine ever goes.
02-17-2013, 03:44 PM
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That's what I would prolly wind up doing to I just don't want to keep changing them out or shift slowly to try to save it, in all reality my car won't be at the track every other weekend and its doubtful it'll be raced that much on the street, I think a level 2 will get me by. Just hope the stock clutch will hold for dyno tuning, it's in good shape for stock power I just don't want to pull the trans to do a clutch and then again for it to be fixed because I already have 2 bad synchronizers
