Noob has Koni questions!
#1
Noob has Koni questions!
So I finally decided to spend a little money and buy myself a present for a change. High mileage but well maintained '94 Z28 with the 6 speed and a couple mods (off brand cold air intake, Eddlebrock headers, axle back Flowmaster, Hypertech Power Programmer. Not awesome stuff but better than stock and came with the car) immaculate interior and no rust (rare in Michigan).
I planning to add a rag-joint eliminator, 2 point UMI SFC and would like to make it handle better. Intend to use as a weekend toy (Accord does daily duty) for some back-road burning and hopefully some the auto-x.
Stranos Koni sale is threatening to swallow my tax return. But I have a few questions before I pull the trigger.
I always hear people refer to Koni 4/4 and 4/3 shocks. My understanding is that the 4/4 have on car adjustable rears and the 4/3 are off car adjustable rears, correct? Since the car is pretty much stock, I'm thinking it's ok for me to just get the 4/3, set it to Sam's recommendation and probably never need to mess with it.
I intend to run the Koni's on stock springs instead of Sam's springs, to keep costs down and because I really don't want to lower the car (crappy MI roads, and my garage sits really high and basically has a concrete ramp in front of every bay that I'm worried about bottoming out the nose on.) Am I sacrificing too much performance by doing so? If I took the time to hunt down a used set of 1LE springs would that be a good compromise? (cheaper than new aftermarket, stiffer than stock, but not lowered)
Thicker sway bars would also be a significant improvement and I know Sam's are the best, but again I'm trying to keep costs down at the moment (only working part time). Would it be a decent alternative to try to track down a set of SS/WS6/1LE sway bars in a junkyard or the parts classified sections instead?
I'm not trying to build a racecar to smoke Porsches on a road course, I just want the car to take corners with more confidence and put a smile on my face. Everything I've read on these forums suggests the Koni's are the best bang for my buck in this department, especially on sale.
I planning to add a rag-joint eliminator, 2 point UMI SFC and would like to make it handle better. Intend to use as a weekend toy (Accord does daily duty) for some back-road burning and hopefully some the auto-x.
Stranos Koni sale is threatening to swallow my tax return. But I have a few questions before I pull the trigger.
I always hear people refer to Koni 4/4 and 4/3 shocks. My understanding is that the 4/4 have on car adjustable rears and the 4/3 are off car adjustable rears, correct? Since the car is pretty much stock, I'm thinking it's ok for me to just get the 4/3, set it to Sam's recommendation and probably never need to mess with it.
I intend to run the Koni's on stock springs instead of Sam's springs, to keep costs down and because I really don't want to lower the car (crappy MI roads, and my garage sits really high and basically has a concrete ramp in front of every bay that I'm worried about bottoming out the nose on.) Am I sacrificing too much performance by doing so? If I took the time to hunt down a used set of 1LE springs would that be a good compromise? (cheaper than new aftermarket, stiffer than stock, but not lowered)
Thicker sway bars would also be a significant improvement and I know Sam's are the best, but again I'm trying to keep costs down at the moment (only working part time). Would it be a decent alternative to try to track down a set of SS/WS6/1LE sway bars in a junkyard or the parts classified sections instead?
I'm not trying to build a racecar to smoke Porsches on a road course, I just want the car to take corners with more confidence and put a smile on my face. Everything I've read on these forums suggests the Koni's are the best bang for my buck in this department, especially on sale.
#2
TECH Regular
IMO Sams springs are the best.
BUT, you could take advantage of the sale that BMR has going on right now. For less than $900 you get the same Koni's that youre looking at from Sam, plus the the BMR springs, which are designed to copy Sams (or so Ive heard).
Might be a good way to spend the same money as you were already plannning to, but the get the Springs thrown in. If you dont like them, or your nose rubs in/out of the garage, then go back to the stock springs and sell the BMR's which will also help lower your cost.
Good luck!
BUT, you could take advantage of the sale that BMR has going on right now. For less than $900 you get the same Koni's that youre looking at from Sam, plus the the BMR springs, which are designed to copy Sams (or so Ive heard).
Might be a good way to spend the same money as you were already plannning to, but the get the Springs thrown in. If you dont like them, or your nose rubs in/out of the garage, then go back to the stock springs and sell the BMR's which will also help lower your cost.
Good luck!
#3
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
The shocks matter the most, period. I sell the shocks cheaper than anyone. I can't give away my springs for nothing so if you want my springs that will cost more (but still way less than normal total and free shipping too).... but you also get advice from someone who does what you want to do. That's gotta be worth something, I think.
Given where you live, the condition of the roads and the concern about the height then I think the stock spring route is only smart. Trust me when I tell you the hugely better control from the Koni will do wonders in and of themselves for how the car drives.
Given where you live, the condition of the roads and the concern about the height then I think the stock spring route is only smart. Trust me when I tell you the hugely better control from the Koni will do wonders in and of themselves for how the car drives.
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#4
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
What's the actual drop if one were to run stock springs on the lower perch of the Koni? I've read 1", but I've also read 3/8" to 1/2".
Also - seems a few folks report a harsher ride (harsher than lowering springs on the upper mount) when running on the lower mount. Any truth to this? If so, why would running on the lower mount change the ride quality?
Also - seems a few folks report a harsher ride (harsher than lowering springs on the upper mount) when running on the lower mount. Any truth to this? If so, why would running on the lower mount change the ride quality?
Last edited by Atrus_SS; 02-28-2013 at 02:48 PM.
#5
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iTrader: (41)
It's not 1".... I'd say on average that lower perch is 1/2" - 5/8"
I've not seen any of this reporting of a harsher ride than lowering springs. In fact I don't really agree with that given you get to keep softer dampers and the Koni's tend to ride much better (less harshly but firmer) than stock....
I've not seen any of this reporting of a harsher ride than lowering springs. In fact I don't really agree with that given you get to keep softer dampers and the Koni's tend to ride much better (less harshly but firmer) than stock....
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#6
Thanks Sam, I guess I'll be sticking with my stock springs.
Sam's website specifies 3/4 of an inch using the lower perch. My guess would be that you're sacrificing suspension travel and that makes the ride harsh.
I'm curious as to what type of suspension geometry changes are made with the lower perch. Does the loss of suspension travel negatively impact handling? Does it lower it enough to mandate an adjustable PHB and LCA relocation brackets? What about camber adjustment?
What's the actual drop if one were to run stock springs on the lower perch of the Koni? I've read 1", but I've also read 3/8" to 1/2".
Also - seems a few folks report a harsher ride (harsher than lowering springs on the upper mount) when running on the lower mount. Any truth to this? If so, why would running on the lower mount change the ride quality?
Also - seems a few folks report a harsher ride (harsher than lowering springs on the upper mount) when running on the lower mount. Any truth to this? If so, why would running on the lower mount change the ride quality?
I'm curious as to what type of suspension geometry changes are made with the lower perch. Does the loss of suspension travel negatively impact handling? Does it lower it enough to mandate an adjustable PHB and LCA relocation brackets? What about camber adjustment?
#7
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BMR has said also, you can buy their sale kit and sell their springs as NIB for $200. Add $50 out of pocket and get the Strano springs you want. $800 when all is said and done.. around there.
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#8
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Sure you can do that too... then again I can't help you with the details on setting up the Koni's and how various settings do what with the feel of the car if that's the plan. You aren't just buying parts here, you are buying my knowledge and support too.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!