nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Disclaimer- I have never torn into an engine before, I have removed heads and done all that good stuff but never touched a rotating assembly.

My stock LT1 is a bit tired, runs at 10-12psi oil pressure at 850rpm idle (stock gauge indicated- probably off). It pulls hard and doesn't skip a beat but I'd like to have the peace of mind of having a new setup IF you guys consider this to be a good deal.

This is whats for sale an hour away:

'95 383 LT1 10.25:1 CR
block is bored .030 over
align honed and bored with torque plates
4 bolt splayed mains align honed and bored
forged eagle crank
forged CAT 6" rods
SRP forged -16cc dish pistons w/ valve reliefs
engine is balanced blueprinted

I talked to him some yesterday and he said that with arp hardware, HD timing chain (forgot what brand), and melling high volume oil pump he wants $1400. Shortblock is complete and ready for assembly apart from bearings.

How much would I be looking at if I dropped it off at a machine shop for assembly roughly? How do I go about buying bearings?

My plan would be to swap everything else from my engine and get it driver worthy until I can do the top end. Its not an option to do it all at once.

What do you think about the price/ parts combo? For a fully forged setup it seems very cheap, he sent me about 25 pics of everything and its all new ready to go apart from the pistons which are used.

Thanks

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

10.25 is probably higher than you would want for boost and is LOWER THAN STOCK which says an idiot spec'd the motors.
High volume oilpump is more likely to hurt things than help anything.

run don't walk in the opposite direction.

A "new" setup is an opportunity for someone else to have done a lot of stupid stuff where GM knew what they were doing. Building a better than stock shortblock cost a lot.

joelster

How can someone determine compression ratio when they are simply selling a shortblock? They don't know what size chambers the buyer is going to run.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

See this is why I asked

Since my engine still runs well minus some valvetrain tapping, I think I'll spring for a heads/ cam package instead

Thank you guys!!!

Edit to say that he did mention he was building for boost but stopped because he was going to change to stronger rods.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

He just texted me saying he got an offer for $1000 and since I contacted him first/ said I would interested he'd let it go for that much to me.

I asked him what the deal is with the CR (how it was spec'd, if he did it with stock heads or something), this was his reply:

Never had stock heads on it and I wanted to do a lower boost with higher CR+ water/air IC and meth setup.

My question is why?? You have a fully forged setup, why would you bother with that crap?

Still for $1000 its soooo tempting

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

So is it completely I assembled or you just want a machine shop to check it out? If a machine shop is going to check it out you could deck the block and use 0.026 head gaskets and bump that CR a little. But if you have to pay $500 to a machine shop your now into a less than ideal setup for $1500... Your call.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

-16cc piston is not right for NA

IMO there is more to this, don't buy someone else's mistake. he knows this setup is not good and that is why the price is so low and dropping.

NewOrleansLT1

10-12psi of oil isn't TOO bad.. But I bet your oil sending unit is the cause of that.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I decided to pass on it, I will do it right when the time comes and I have a better situation.

10psi seems to be pretty typical for well used LT1s, should still have a solid amount of life left in her.

Ok so when the time comes and I decide I just want to refresh my engine, what's the best way to go about it?

Tear down, if crank has no visible wear just throw in some new bearings? Hone the cylinders and throw new rings in+ ARP bolts on the rods and back to rocketing around?

Thanks!